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New kind o' DRSD

I've always removed the stem in the set position, and never had a problem. I was lucky with the only one I had to reset the keyless. I just 'fiddled' with the works using the small screwdriver a bit, didn't even loosen the screw for the keyless cover, and it set. I once removed the back cover. They use a 'U' shaped spring that travels at the speed of sound (I heard the sonic boom) when released never to be found again. I was facing South, so it might be somewhere in Texas. I scavenged another from a broken movement, and installed it after replacing the back cover. There is a long slot it goes through to set. I put the spring on scotch tape so I could see through to where it would slide in. Worked great. However, I still recommend that to service a Chinese movement like a DG2813 or DG3804B you remove the movement from the case, remove the hands and dial. Place the movement on your workbench. Hit the thing with a 40 ounce ball peen hammer and sweep the mess into the garbage. Take the brand new movement and install in reverse order. Under $50 every 5 years or so, versus a service on a Swiss movement. And just as accurate and dependable.

Rolli's FGD - 040 Marina Dial Artwork in Swiss Oem Quality: here we introduce a more than rare artwork 040 Marina dial in swiss oem quality and standard. made by a high grade oem swiss dial maker, made in switzerland. the oem standard and oem rules say, only to use high end materials and high grade machines, made in switzerland. materials only from swiss companies which also are developer for the well know products for the watch making, also the machines, cnc machines from almac swiss, absolutely fast runner with 5 independent spindles and perfect for recessed indices milling and for all dial applications, also for movement parts etc. all watch brands with in house production factory work with this special swiss almac cnc machine. all our dials were made on this machine. all the swiss oem dial maker have an expensive high grade machine park and be guided by ingineure. basic material is finest brass alloy , punched to a round plate with 1,0 mm and welded the unitas 6497 feet. indices cnc machine milled, processed the surface to a thickness of 0,97 mm. and then on the surface the fine glass beads blasting, after the cleaning process and the black galvanic process. for the final finish was applied the zapon varnish with satin sheen finsih. now the dials have a final thickness of 1,0 mm. note: all indices numerals shape have the typical pre vendome features, see the lower sharp corner in the contour on the 6, and the preV typical numerals shapes. PreV Style indices milling: all indices numerals contours were pre-milled with a 0.1 mm milling cutter, so that the sharp corners in 6 could be made, after with a 0,4 mm milling cutter were milled the inner rest. it was only possible with a special swiss almac cnc machine, and necessary a special pre working and programming on the cad program. a very elaborate cnc machine procedure. note: all PreV and all preA and 040 dials have this special numerals feature on the shape contours. now the dials went to swiss rc tritec for our special tritium look. last year we developed a tritium simulated high grade super luminova color, 10 years burned out look. rc tritec switzerland analyzed this color and produced it in triple high grade-A super luminova a special color for us. i could buy the original old stock tritium resin varnish UV820 from rc tritec, which was still in stock from 1993 and i could buy the rest stock. the tritium high glossy resin varnish uv820 is the original which was used for all tritium mixes , and as protection against the radioactivity. all indices are filled with this mixture by swiss rctritec employee by hand with the stylograph in the typical recessed preV style filling. the preV fgd hands are special made for us including the small second hand including a longer second hand tube, are also filled by rc tritec with a non matched high grade-A tritium simulated super luminova. after this process the dials went to the swiss printer, for the print steel cliché, and for the final lettering print, also with swiss berlac paint in high glossy peal white. this was a small introduction to the oem manufacture, i already studied for years all these single procedures and steps and could train and instruct the dial maker for the important details, also i trained the engineer and graphic designer for the vector graphic on auto cad for all the important sensible details. we had a genuine dial and high resolution scan all the time as basic for the profuction. For more Details please send a PM regards Rolli

On NOS Swiss Tropic strap[emoji1303]

James Bond theme day: 6538 with regimental strap, Tom Ford "Henry" shades from Spectre

PAM104 on Taka strap. Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met behulp van Tapatalk

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Message crafted while riding a leathery juvenile T-Rex and charging toward the horizon.

Wore 1 of my Subs today

Luminor Submersible Slytech Panerai 5218-205/A http://s5.postimg.org/hpbuwjzav/DSCN6638.jpg[/img] Well, how am I going to start writing about this build? A few days ago I read about Grimlocktime's new 5218-203/A and how that very watch was the one that dragged him to his Pre-v fascination. Well, for me it was the 205/A Slytech. I'm not sure why, I'm not that much a fan of Stallone, so the promotional aspect of the watch is not the reason. Most likely what attracts me is the combination of a four liner dial with tritium indices and seconds subdial, and the word "submersible". God knows what clicks in our minds sometimes. Anyway, I tried DSN's version of this watch and was very happy with it, as reviewed [URL="https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/203590-DSN-5218-205-A-pictorial-review-PICS-HEAVY"][B]HERE[/B][/URL]. But I wanted more, I wanted it to be as perfect as possible. So when I heard rolli would have been making a batch of 205/A dials I sold the rep and started to prepare building my own. Last December, when Rolli released the dials, I thought I was almost ready for the build and the only thing that was missing was the dial. How wrong was I! In the last four months I went through three different case sets completely reshaped and refinished before I was "satisfied". Now that's where I'm at and although there's always room for improvement, there's no way I could have been able to do it any better than this. During the whole process of this build I have been in contact with Rolli, asking his advice on specific matters. He sent me links to reference pics, gave me technical advice, event sent me drawings. I bothered him especially in regards to drilling lugs and crown tube, because this was the first time I did it and I did not want to mess things up. Well, as a matter of fact I did mess up: the first time I drilled the case, the tube hole came out too large. I mentioned this in one of my emails and since Rolli was having a few crown tubes produced, he was so kind to have the maker produce one in a slightly larger size to fit my case. I was really in awe for this gesture, thanks my friend Here's what went into this build: - noob v3 case set completely reshaped: softened the edges, lowered the shoulders, polished rehaut, lugs drilled to accept Pre-V lugbars, crown tube drilled to accept Rolli's OEM spec tube. - Crystal replaced with Davidsen's no-AR "french" sapphire - DSN Pre-V crownguard with CG pin sunken and radial brushed. - DSN crown... I think. I am not sure how I came into possession of this crown, as I said I had a few cases pass in my hands and more than a few crowns. I even ordered one during the build process, and it is probably this one, but I'm not sure. Fact is the crown is different than every other DSN crown I have seen so far, the crown teeth have a crisp and defined bevel and the bevel itself is larger than in any other crown I have seen, except gen. Maybe it's a recent improvement from DSN, but I guess I won't be sure until I order a new one (very soon tbh ;)) Anyway, lucky me this crown is exceptionally nice - Rolli's new batch 205/A dial + FGD hands. No need to introduce this, you'll see for yourself. Black paint was removed from the inside of the minute hand tube in order to show a hint of brass. No other work to be done, except trying to avoid damage to these incredible parts. - Vintage swiss ETA 6497, CP and hour wheel swapped for a new H3 set with CP polished by me. - Jakob's perfect caseback. To make this build a little more special, I went for a 201/A CB with a serial number confirmed as one of the first 205/A prototypes presented to Stallone for acceptance before production started. - Last but not least, there was no better match to this build than an Orloff OEM spec black vacchetta strap with thin black stitching and a special sewn in buckle from a small batch he had made a while ago. Perfect strap in every detail Here's a few pics of the case work: http://s5.postimg.org/fsaje8j93/DSCN6734.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/fr0lkthfb/DSCN6735.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/b2klpms8n/DSCN6737.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/6hyfap8jb/DSCN6740.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/v4pouit13/DSCN6624.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/aw2b8stpz/DSCN6629.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/obpby927r/DSCN6731.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/5afw4qt13/DSCN6732.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/9z0hdo7lj/DSCN6605.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/bpjif5p4n/DSCN6620.jpg[/img] And here's the final product: http://s5.postimg.org/ddintt307/DSCN6596.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/teb96s0vr/DSCN6597.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/i0opvkqd3/DSCN6599.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/5d8yj2bg7/DSCN6602.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/933zy7xx3/DSCN6592.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/6zy64anhz/DSCN6615.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/fbtx5jkvr/DSCN6616.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/gcyr8er93/DSCN6703.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/tktjnlzef/DSCN6626.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/rit29d1fb/DSCN6628.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/b6j0jmn3r/DSCN6634.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/59f52t5yv/DSCN6637.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/61mefqzjr/DSCN6641.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/jv65r22rb/DSCN6598.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/hho801oc7/DSCN6603.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/h51f7lvg7/DSCN6707.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/b5do3yanr/DSCN6714.jpg[/img] http://s5.postimg.org/rqlajm1rr/DSCN6711.jpg[/img] Final wristie! http://s5.postimg.org/ize9pcign/DSCN6726.jpg[/img] Thanks for looking.

Which 1680 did you end up purchasing for your base watch? Can you link to it? Eggs should work. Another trick I've read about is using salt and vinegar. You soak a paper towel with white vinegar and microwave it to get it steaming hot. Then put your hands on the ends of toothpicks and stick them into a lump of Rodico, and place that on top of the steaming paper towel. Sprinkle sea salt onto the paper towel and then place a glass on top of the Rocico/hands to trap the fumes. Over time the acid in the vinegar fumes, combined with the salt, will corrode the hands. Watch it to make sure it doesn't happen too quickly. Other members have tried ammonia on the paper towel and those vapors react too quickly. Literally within a couple of minutes the hands will corrode so fast that they might break. Vinegar goes more slowly and isn't as caustic. Yet another technique I read about on another forum is using this Japanese model building "patina paint." They make kits for aging things such as model trains, cars, airplanes, buildings, etc. The kits come in "shades" and contain 3 colors. You use a very small amount of the paint and literally "flick it" onto the surface you are aging. the tiny specks of multiple colors recreate the look of patina on brass, iron, and other metals. I think it may have been an old post on Homage Forum, actually.

Actually if you want to have the details from those that have been in the trade for 8 years PM me. Ken