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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/28/2016 in all areas

  1. The most difficult part, assuming you lack the tools, will be refitting the bezel. Depending on the construction of your particular rep watch, the bezel can usually be pried-off with a thin knife/blade. Sometimes, this can take some time if the bezel is tight or has been affixed with cement (cheap reps are often assembled this way). Just work the knife in a tiny bit in between the bottom of the bezel & top of the case. Move all the way around the case evenly &, eventually, the bezel will come lose & can be lifted off. Sometimes, it takes a few minutes, but, sometimes, it can take 30+ minutes. It all depends on the fit of your particular bezel/case. Once the bezel is off, the crystal, again, assuming it also was not cemented onto the case, should lift off (by hand) or can be gently nudged with the edge of the knife in the same fashion as the bezel (work slowly all the way around the crystal). To reinstall, simply reverse the procedure - install crystal, then bezel. It is best to have a good caseback press & set of nylon 'pucks' that fit the perimeter of the bezel & perimeter of the caseback to press the bezel back on. However, if you are careful, you may be able to refit the bezel using an appropriately-sized pair of socket wrench sockets (or something similar - any round, cylindrical object with a smooth face that fits will work) & a vice. Just be careful to press gently, slowly & keep the watch centered in the vice so the bezel presses on evenly. Otherwise, if it gets pressed on unevenly, you are likely to warp it, which adds alot of additional headaches. Also, it should be obvious, but just to be clear, the cylinder you use on the bezel side (to press it onto the case) must not come into contact with the crystal as this will crack/crush it. You can probably find youtube videos that show how to press a bezel on to give you an idea of the process & make it easier to find substitutes for the nylon 'pucks'.
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  3. I will try to explain our position on above matter. High end builds are a touchy thing and I have done my due diligence. Having spoken to most of our Rolex modders I have found there are parts Rolex will sell unrestricted and those they do not, restricted. (some of you may know this but others may not so ....) Some have sources for them low and others have paid more this is due to access , if you can get from Rolex direct or have a supplier who does sell to you with a reasonable markup you get them on the cheap others have much paid more. I also have been on the phone with some heavy builders and they have paid prices on the high and low but in truth could not recall what the hell they paid on everything , I find that reasonable if you have 5 or 6 you've done as in this case. (I would not know beyond a doubt) I know I know write it down but some are not as organized as others so crap happens. This being said our habit of asking for breakdowns is a good thing but let's also look at the what the watch is worth overall not cherry pick a part or two you may be able to get cheaper. (did they who knows) Now it has been postulated that some always price on the high side and list their parts on the high end of what they cost in this we have decided to let the market do the work. Look you got no business buying a build for 2 to 5 k if you do not know your stuff and if you do not you ask around and research, your job as buyer not ours as mods. Now if a guy posted a TC with a gen insert and crystal for 2 k we would crush it but with laundry list of parts: phong this yuki that gen this that we can not get into it to many maybe's involved to make a definitive call. Now feel free to post in a thread if you think a bit high on something but let's not start a row you will never know what they paid and neither will we on parts, so keep it short and sweet. To expand further I have always felt that just sourcing all these parts and getting them put together right has a value all it's own, how many times have I seen guys post I bought this for 3-5 hundred but doesn't fit, how do you price that in. (we don't ) So look at the break down but also look at the watch in total in regard to price and more importantly is it worth that to you.
    1 point
  4. "I have never pulled a stunt like that and never would." I admit to being jaded. After 40 years trading watches I have seen the underbelly of this 'hobby' up close and it ain't pretty. Most of the members on this forum are a different breed (a much nicer group) from the 'serious' watch guys I used to come in contact with. Heard these lines hundreds of times: "All I need is just one part to get it running, help me out." "I would like to have that watch to wear, make me a deal on it." "Runs great, I just had it serviced." "All it needs is a battery." Rule #3: Watchmakers make watches.
    1 point
  5. Great tip...just bought one Sent from my wooden drums via Tupperware
    1 point
  6. Welcome back edge. Sad and sorry to hear about your loss. Hope those thieves eventually get what they deserve
    1 point
  7. Glad to have you back!! Sorry to hear about your watch thefts. There are so many lowlifes in the world today, scares me to have anything valuable, unless it is locked up in a bank safety deposit box. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. You're not going to be able to swap in a Yuki dial- it's made for a V72 which differs slightly from the ST-19 used in your watch. My watchmaker glued some stick markers back on a dial of mine with some contact cement- worked fine and it's more forgiving than superglue.
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  10. Welcome back Edge. Terrible news about the theft. The only major change is that the reps are better and more EXPENSIVE!
    1 point
  11. Sorry to hear about the bad luck, but happy to hear they did not harm you.
    1 point
  12. Good thread. I have avoided the sales thread back and forth as I did not feel I had anything meaningful to contribute. I know I have lost money on every build I have done... even those where I may have found a part or two under current market pricing. Doing high end builds is not usually a profitable venture, even if you do all the work yourself. I generally view an item's worth as what I am willing to pay for it. Generally with vintage parts, I will pay more from a friend or a trusted source. Too many scammers out there these days and too many junk parts. On the subject of profiteering... A fellow collector and friend sold me a 93150 for $500. Market value for this item is $650-750. We have exchanged watch parts, cigars, car parts and other things over the years. I sent him a nice cigar sampler just for fun the other day. He texted me a thank you. No big deal. A week later he sells me this bracelet on the cheap as he knew I was looking for one. Here is another variable. I also bought another 93150 bracelet a week later for $600 that is not in as good of condition but has a different date code. If I decide to sell one of them, is it profiteering if I sell it for market price? The price he gave me had less to do with value and more to do with our back and forth of proper deals and gifts. I think it would be hard for me to sell it below market value. I would just assume keep it.
    1 point
  13. From another perspective, you could buy a cheap, rattly, tinny, riveted 7206 band from Rolex in the early 70s for under $50. Today that band would sell for $1,000 without blinking an eye. Maybe 3x that. Is that profiteering? No, it's supply and demand. If you know your stuff, the frankenfield is a great playground. Pay what you know the pieces and watches are worth. If something is overpriced, watch it a couple weeks... I bet the price will come down. If you don't know your stuff, then frankens are not for you. Go with stock from our trusted dealers. A good corollary is buying a heavily modified Cobra kit car vs. a GT Mustang off the showroom. If you're good with wrenches, or can afford someone who is, buy the Cobra. Otherwise get the Muskrat and have 90% of the fun with almost no risk and instant gratification.
    1 point
  14. Very well put Mike. One example, 2 years ago my AD had 3 116610 dials. They cost $450. Today he has none. It's not what it's worth, it's what will it take to buy it? Dial may be worth $450, but maybe the only one you can find is $700. Does that make those dials worth $700? Yes, yes it does. That's the market
    1 point
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