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but those would be incorrect hands to use and you wouldn't have a gmt hand. best is to modify gen hands to fit.

Only 78 pieces were ever produced of this special edition by Rolex to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Italian ''Polizia di Sommozzatori' back in 2008'. It has been argued that this is probably the rarest modern Rolex in current times. Each one was made specifically for an individual and their details were printed on the Rolex guarantee card rather than the normal retailers information. With unique dial depicting the octopus in a round escutcheon logo of the Italian Police Diving Corps and a case back with unique inscription it would not be surprising if this model eclipses its older ''Comex'' counterparts in years to come when you consider it to be the very last lot of the pre 'Deep-Sea' models produced by Rolex. Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

For me... I could have picked up some nice gens for what I've spent in this hobby, but to me, there's not a lot of fun in doing that. I'd rather spend the time to research a build, understand the history of such a piece, hunt down the parts and see what I can put together with my own hands and tools. I have an appreciation for what I have on my wrist, and I know what went into it. In terms of cost... I think that's all relative, right? I have more than I'd like to admit into my Patek builds, but the amount is a small fraction of what the gens would run me, and that's if I could find examples as clean as the ones I've put together. For me, maybe that's the other facet; building something that's not the most accessible or available in gen form. And sometimes... It's about pushing the limits; to see how close or accurate a build can get. In the end, only you can justify what makes sense, or what doesn't. If it makes you smile every time you check the wrist... If you look back on a build with no regrets... I think it's nothing to worry about Life's short... We should all do what we enjoy doing!

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I think the cyclops is a no go on a Sea-dweller. Gesendet von meinem MI 4S mit Tapatalk

087 Enviado desde mi SM-G925I mediante Tapatalk

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Spring has come to Michigan Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here are some comparisons for the V6S compared to the gen half regular V6S and half painted. 30 50 and 40 are painted and the indices between, but the 10 side is unpainted and original V6S colouring

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Hated the DSSD on also guess it will depend on the height on this one.........................

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201369590653 On Ebay can you search with word RIVETS SCREWS.

Sort of reminds me of a submariner on steroids!! Actually, it's not too bad. I would need to see one in the flesh and try it on before I really made up my mind. I will say, I had over the years three DSSD's, tried my best to love them, but for my wrist they were one of the poorest fitting watches I have owned. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Valjoux 726 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One other thing to consider: the real genius of a GMT is that you don't have to set the hour to change your second time at all. Why not just use the bezel? Remember these were invented for pilots who changed time zones often enough that they needed a way to avoid not only the hassle, but also wear and tear on the movement, crown and tube of resetting their watch with every trip. To each their own, but to me, using the independent hour hand instead of the bezel to change your second time defeats the purpose.

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1680 at Playa Bluff

Neverwhere.

Done dirt cheap.

I prefer Key West with black dial. Reshaped 1655 case, Vietnam dial and bezel assembly, gen 24-600 crown, DG3804.

That is freaking stunning !! I'm on a Rolie kick lately, my 70' serialed 6263 on my battle scared forearm from installing a fuel pump in my 911 turbo the other night lol

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Morning cigar, you say! [emoji41] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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The preliminary build of mine looks more the part than the one for $130k ?

This is just my opinion on the service of the 2 movements. The reason I give for not servicing the Asian movement is because of the quality of the parts. You can buy a brand new Asian 2836-2 or 2824-2 for around $100. A new swiss is around $220. The main difference I see between the asian and swiss is the metal used. The quality of the metal used in the swiss is much better than the Asian. When I loop the asian parts I can see that the quality and finish of the parts is much less than those in the swiss movement. Things like the mainspring and tub, the gears in the train, the date corrector wheel, the hairspring, the yoke, the yoke corrector and so on. While you can certainly service the asian movement, by the time you get all the parts installed and put back together, you're approaching the cost of a movement. You certainly want to replace all the gears in the train, those cost around $20. The mainspring, depending on the age of the movement could be very weak, again because of the metal used to mfg. The mainspring assy is around $20. So now, if you put all those parts in, you're almost at the cost of a new movement, including the labor. I don't think I've ever seen a third wheel and pinion break on a swiss, but I've seen several on an asian. The quality of the metal used throughout the swiss movement provides years of trouble free service. While the asian movements of late have been greatly improved, and really perform well, they are still not on the quality level of the swiss. For the money, asian is still a great buy. However, if you have a major problem with it, just replace it. You'll be glad you did. That's my take on it.

I think that the cyclop is not in any sea-dweller

Nicer lugs and overall shape, although 43mm here and there says nothing until I can see it on the wrist. The cyclops though... I would change that xtal ASAP if the overall fit was good and I liked it.

I all honesty I think this wall clock nonsense has to stop.