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Mays Berlin

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Trivia from here (RWG) and there. No guarantees for accuracy. Vickers scale of hardness: 24K Red Gold 160 Aluminum 167 Magnesium 175 18K Gold 216 Silver 251 Copper 369 Stainless Steel 400 Lanthanum 491 Hublonium AG5 500 Platinum 549 Iron 608 Tantalum 873 Zirconium 903 Titanium 970 Magic gold 1100 Tungsten 3430 Ceramic 6200 (used by Hublot; Zirconium Oxide) The Sub-Date used 316 steel up to and including the 16800. The 168000, introduced ca. 1988 was the first Sub-Date to use 904L. The change to 904L occurred in the other models but it started in the late 80s with the Sub-Date. 24-700 crown is a no-dots twinlock crown. You'll need a tube with threads going all the way to the end of the tube for this (24-7000-0). 24-702 crown is a triplock 3 dots crown; the crown has threads extending all the way to the opening and the tube is without the O-ring gasket on the exterior, but the threads only go to about 3/4 of the tube with a [censored] at the end (24-7020-0). 24-703 crown is a triplock 3 dots crown. This crown requires the tube with the exterior O-ring gasket; the crown threads stop mid way inside the crown to accomodate the tube's exterior gasket (24-7030-0). There is also a 24-703 monobloc/24-704. Same as the above 24-703, except of 1 piece design (the crowns prior were a wrap design) and these are easily identified by the size of the coronet on the top of the crown (short and squat while the 2pc. is a long coronet). Requirements for minimum thicknesses for watch cases in the various materials. All require not less than 10 karat fineness: Gold filled - thickness throughout of not less than three one-thousandths of an inch. This equates to not less than 76 micron in thickness, (approximately the thickness of a sheet of photocopy paper). Rolled gold plate - thickness throughout of not less than one and one-half one thousandths of an inch. This equates to not less than 38 micron in thickness. Gold electroplate - 20 micron is considered heavy for modern electroplating, and much plating is 5 micron or less. German Silver (nickel silver), is an alloy of 60 percent copper, 20 percent nickel, and 20 percent zinc V72 hand sizes Hour 1.60 min 1.09 center chrono 0.25 sub-second 0.23 sub-minutes 0.25 sub-hours 0.28 V7734/6 Hour 1.45 min 0.95 center chrono 0.30 sub-second 0.20 sub-minutes 0.30 sub-hours 0.21 V72, V727 and more advanced V7750 series have all the same dimension specs. If I remember well its something like 13 lines and around 6,5mm thickness All these movements fits in all kind of cases. When DW or Yuki talk about Daytona cases made only to match with V72, its not wrong but a wrong description. Rolex drilled 2 more holes at different location in the V72 movement plate to fix it into the case. R.C.Spielmann company who made cosmograph cases for Rolex machined cases according these new fixation features. But a V7750 can be fitted into a Rolex specs case. The difference between the full chrono functions and the faux subdial at 6: The subdial spacing is slightly different between V72 series and V7750 series. In these reps powered by Seagull, the Seagull movement has the same 9 and 3 subdial spacing like the V72/727 but no hours counter function. It result the faux subdial with a faux hand at 6. The full chrono functions reps using a 7750 have a slightly different subdial spacing -around half a millimeter. Gen dials or aftermarket dials with exact Rolex specs don't fit. Dials made for Daytona reps powered with the 7750 are specific. "Watch money. Money is the barometer of a society's virtue. When you see that trading is done, not by consent, but by compulsion--when you see that in order to produce, you need to obtain permission from men who produce nothing--when you see that money is flowing to those who deal, not in goods, but in favors--when you see that men get richer by graft and by pull than by work, and your laws don't protect you against them, but protect them against you--when you see corruption being rewarded and honesty becoming a self-sacrifice--you may know that your society is doomed." --Francisco d'Anconia in Atlas Shrugged Newer = Better: 116610LV Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date (why not just OPSD?) 40mm, stainless steel, pressure proof to 1000 feet (from the boat dock...horizontally) Special time-lapse Cerachrom bezel (gotta have it!...because it's 'special'). 31 jewel chronometer movement ($7000 better than an Eta!) Synthetic sapphire crystal (same as found in most replicas!). Special Glidelock clasp and Oyster bracelet 97200 (Glidelock! can't beat it!...except for the old style sheet metal models). All for only $9050.00!! (plus tax). BS or not? (mostly from RWG) A genuine watch IS overpriced at list price if none or very few will sell at list price while the exact same watch will sell in quantity for 20%, 30% or 40% less than list price. Example...try to sell an Invicta at list price. They will fly at 70% or 80% off though. A watch is not overpriced if the entire production or most of it will sell at list price. Some buyers will pay list price for a watch and others will not buy without a discount, that's just the way it is. Some buyers believe list price is Ok because it makes the item seem to be more valuable (to them) while others will not pay list price because the watch is not worth as much as list price (to them). I remember reading on one of the genuine watch forums a few years ago about a guy who had his mind set to buy an Omega SMP and had found one at an AD for $1700 or so. He was going to buy it the next day. That evening he and his wife went to Costco and while the wife was shopping for groceries, the guy went to look at watches and found a new in box omega SMP for $1350. Which one did he buy? The one for $1700 because he said "The lower price at Cosco tarnished his image of the SMP" because to him it was a $1700 watch. I laughed out loud because the minute he sized the bracelet and put the watch on...he then owned a $1000 watch no matter how much he paid. As for me, I would not pay over 20 to 30 cents on the list price dollar for most new in box (rolex) watches unless I could sell it for a profit. That's about all they are worth to me if I had to own one. I knew an AD and could get just about any new rolex for cost (except Daytonas) as long as I promised not to immediately flip it. In 20 years, the only one I bought at cost was a sapphire GMT II. I never wore it but sold it about 12 years later and bought a 1675. So... The question was...remove all branding and lay a replica and genuine watch down beside each other. This means all production, advertising, delivery and after sales cost are irrelevant. The cheaper unmarked replica watch would probably out sell the higher price unmarked genuine watch by a large margin until the reputation of the replica was ruined by poor QC, WR, reliability, no service, warranty etc. APB: Anyone have a Yuki 1680 case number 2835577? Stilty bought it new and later traded it to me (without mvt or dial) and I traded it to another member, no telling where it is now. Still have the 16xx DJ the movement came out of...serial number 2835577. T or F? The original Noob watches were assembled in Thailand. Now the new ones are strictly from China. Top of the line 'Noob' Submariner = F520117 serial number and out of production since around 2007. Same watch as some 'TWB', 'Beginmariner', WBK etc. True: Before Ducatis, I rode 2 cycle Allstates...Mo Ped, 125, and 175. Like this: http://www.bikesrestored.com/4522/allstate-puch-175-1958/allstate175-1958-5/

well done as always, welcome back!

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1:1 unauthorized authentic AAA+ boutique walkable with box and unfilled warranty and papers You guys crack me every time Sent from my SM-T325 using Tapatalk

Gen today.

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I like that

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IMO gen crystals are only worth it if: 1) the crystal is plexi (the non-OEM crystal profiles never match OEM perfectly) 2. the crystal has a LEC or AR coating

Nothing beats a gen chrystal, so my reply is YES !

Think it's a Patek day today...

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I can recommend the torch-style as you can see and thus control the heat much better, I tried the oven too and destroyed 2 dials (never tried inserts) before I gave up...

Hello IndyWG I buy most of my reps from Connie at Kingwatch, she has been my primary dealer of choice for the past 4-5 years. The Asian 2824 is of course a reliable movement, but the main reason I converted it is for the 21600bph rate instead of the 28800bph one that the A2824 provides. The genuine AP diver beats at a lower frequency, and this translates to a slightly erratic looking "ticking" of the second hand on the 21600bph movement as opposed to the smooth sweep on the 28800bph A2824. This mod is mainly for accuracy. Yes the A3120 decorated ceramic diver is a very nice piece now, after the movement decoration and the correct crown update. The orange changes hues under different lighting like the gen. The finer details on this watch are really impressive and surprised me a little honestly. I would not tell you where or who, but this watch was worn to an event and inadvertently discussed and admired by someone (while on my wrist) who is professionally qualified and a known rep-despising snob. That is a story for another time... I will soon offer fully modded divers, brand new (FC or SS or ceramic) with the following mods: - low beat ETA movements 21600bph - recessed bezel screws -service and water resistance to 6atm (enough for swimming and snorkelling and some light diving)

Hi and welcome to the forum. Check out the trusted dealers, they all are trusted and know how to ship to Singapore. Best way is to go with one of the watches that get the best reviews here on the forum in the beginning. Keep the more difficult choices of specific watches You want for another time. Have fun around. Wish You good choices.

I agree with Legend 100%. You guys are all new, and we welcome you to the forum. You can learn a great deal about watches in general and reps in particular if you hang around here, and read and research the watches you are interested in. Please don't get too wrapped up in the hype about 1:1. there just isn't any such animal in the rep world. There are some really good reps, and some really awful reps, you just have to dig out the information and decide which is which. Some reps by their construction, popularity and parts availability are fairly easy to get close to perfect, notice I said close, because none of them are ever going to be perfect, unless you buy enough genuine parts to build a complete watch!! Some reps because of their construction are almost impossible to make much better. Some can be improved, by better lume, better AR on the crystal, possibly a better movement, but generally to get any watch as close to the genuine as possible requires the substitution of rep parts with genuine parts. things like crystals, dials, hands, movements, crowns, pushers, etc. are what take reps to the next level, and even those while close are not 1:1..

The only 1:1 watches are the genuine ones. In fact, I do not approve of this misleading term used by the rep dealers to market their products, especially to buyers of little or no experience. There are very excellent reps by the forum standards, yes. There are good reps which are passable by the same standards. Of course, a lot of reps are just plain crap and to be avoided by any self-respecting rep afficionado. By the way, I am from Singapore too. Welcome my fellow enthusiasts to a very nice forum for watches!