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canal street versions , 2813s

Thanks ! it was… How it looks now :

Hey guys! First of all I hope you had a very merry Christmas and are enjoying some much needed time off work. I have a question on the 3135 movement which I’m hoping is an easy question for the collective minds of the community... I replaced the date wheel and dial on my JF 16610 LV, I made sure the hands were replaced so that the date flips round at midnight, the date change at midnight is extremely crisp and snaps into place. THE ISSUE: When I try to use the quickset function for the date (extract crown one click then turn crown to quickset date), it does not work. The date wheel moves a little as if it were going to change, but then something in the movement slips and it drops back to the same date. Can anyone help me narrow down the problem? So I can open her up again and fix it. A couple of photos; The replacement date wheel from WSO has much crisper font, whereas the JF stock date wheel has fat font. What a beauty! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@Sogehakindly said I can start a RWI thread here. I have no news for any of our exiles but I will let you know what I hear if and when I hear it. To all my friends enjoy the time in exile, from what I see there is a lot to read on here so happy days Patrick

Pam 243 on Gen strap and buckle Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

It is not he shabbiest place in the world to spend some exile time. Enjoy it. I have found plenty to read here. Reading about watches is not a luxury I have had for a while

It will be the next rep I pick up. The one thing people are confused about is the hands motion. It is true that the new rolex movement adjusts just like a 2824 but the quick set is different. The new rolex works a lot like the 3030 family. Where on quickset one way winds and the other moves the date. Where the ETA one way doesn't do anything while the other way changes the date. So yes. It is nice but detectable. I look forward to getting this watch and throwing a real ETA maybe relume hands and dial and call it a day.

If it is the same as the work done on mine and I believe it is. The the bracelet sides have been shaved. The links have been polished brushed and slightly thinned down. The Yuki is thicker than the gen.

Ploprof

You might as well use a good case for it. I personally am not a fan of plated cases, as no matter what happens, the gold plate will always fade. Sooner or later. This is my old lady. Solid gold case and gen everything else.

sorry

Beat me to it, coming from you is a solid confirmation. Op nice pieces[emoji848] Don'

There's been a lot of interest lately in 7206 bands. This is a way I found to take the rep 7206 one large step closer to the gen profile. I hope it helps!

Can't really say for sure what he did on it, sorry about that. But as @Yllekp wrote and you can see if you compare the yuki bracelet with mine, the heads of of the rivets is flatter on mine compared with the yuki one, so they are flatten.

And which version are you ordering from Sead please? I like the fact that the gen 3235 caliber now sets time in the same direction as an ETA movement. One tell eliminated.

Send a photo of what you want to a few of the TDs and see if they can help.

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The green color of the bezel insert is still not 100% and the date font and crystal/cyclops could be tells. Also for certain reps you get poor SEL fitment, misaligned markers but these could be corrected etc

Nice skyline with a v727 heart. Yet to mount a better bezel.

With RWI being down I saved a lot of money...... for my car insurance[emoji23] Don'

The movements have gotten better for the hobby but let’s not forget they are cheap and not reliable. The sa3135 is probably the one that comes too mind. All the noobs I got, they ran great for a little while then issues. Low amp bad reversing gears. Massive tension on the stem. Stem breaking. But man, when it ran well it was great. Now good luck getting parts for it. The A2824 seems too be the way too go if Rolex changes the movement on subs to their new movement. It will just need a nice cleaning and service. Realistically a real new 2824 or a SW200 will probably be a better deal. They both can be had for under $150 and last forever. When it comes too a 3186. Converting a Sh3135 is the best way too go or real Rolex movement. Both of those options are expensive but only reliable CHS option. The China CHS are non reliable. One thing I heard is if you leave the GMT hand alone that it will work and people have had theirs for awhile. What we need is noob or JF to make a case that can take a 3186. That would be amazing jump for this hobby.

Merry Christmas! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Merry Christmas... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Can‘t believe this. I’m sure if you treat the surface in a similar way you won’t be able to differ the two metals. Reps are not brushed with the same tools and grits as gens. That’s the point making the difference for your eyes. Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Pro

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TC Sub V6, gen insert, PBdad case reshape, red 16622 YM seconds lollipop hand Seasons greetings ! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Happy Holidays to you all! Be safe out there [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Too bad pics ain't showing for me Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Que and Sogeha you guys are 100% correct. Our hobby is small enough and last years hit made us smaller. A lot of people never came back. I am worried what will happen now because this was an attack on its members. We need too stick together and continue our friendships and brotherhood.

Indeed guys, you are all very welcome here. Our hobby is small enough, we don’t benefit by constantly sparing with each other. All the fora are different which is good for the hobby as a whole, many of us are members on more than one and most of us have a clear home forum. Regardless of that we are all part of the Brotherhood and family sticks together in adversity. Welcome guys, And if you are a Mod on RWI, post that you are in this thread, No need to keep your status hidden here.

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Yea the composition of 904L will not change and there are less than 30 foundry's world wide producing the alloy as its hard to work with, expensive to machine and with many other less costly materials out there that can do the same job better then why use it ? . I don't know if you ever see the older Rolexes and the pitting under the caseback around the oring etc.. that pitting is from the acidic reactions that can take place in 316L from salt water and your skin over time. My background in Mechanical engineering has taken me into the metallurgy field quite deeply and I have even been involved as a professional consultant in court for issues of corrosion on sea vessels that let to death or serious harm to individuals, so its somewhat of a passion of my previous career and still very much an interest. Rolex doesn't use surface hardening as they don't need to with 904, its pretty resilient to minor scratches much more so than 316 due to the higher nickel and chromium content, this also allows it to shine nicer in different angles of light. to be honest the pros of it do not offset the added cost. it seems to be a marketing thing with rolex now and well for a professional diver who is constantly saturated at depth then in 20-25 years it will be of benefit because he wont have the minor pitting on the caseback and caseback threads, but other than that its just pure marketing and prestige. and yes if reps used it then they would have to buy all new tooling to cut and machine as its hard to work with and even rolex uses a 250 ton press to get the basic shape of the watch case even before finishing as just machining will be too costly and time consuming. As for heat treating or surface treating the only manufactures I see doing this is well the obvious ones using true PVD and well Sinn and its tigimentation process that I still feel is a little bit of marketing smoke screen Cheers ! C.

The Yuki coronet on the clasp was bugging me, so I had a bash at reshaping it with a diamond file. The original Yuki on the left compared to the gen: After reshaping, not perfect but at least an improvement:

Thought I may as well exchange the 80 endlinks with a set from MQ I had knocking around as I wasn't happy with the originals from Yuki. It's a tricky job but managed fairly well. First I dismantled the Yuki endlinks. Massage the springbar retainer until it can accept gen-spec springbars. Reassemble by slipping the springbar retainer though the MQ endlink. Carefully fold back the springbar retainer around the last bracelet link bar. I masked everything off while doing this, using various screwdrivers and pliers to get everything back in place. So, endlink revision done. Not something I intend to do a again in a hurry.

Interesting, both the Yuki rivets I have/had would not fit between the lugs on either the 6538 or 5513 cases. My buddy still has my remaining Yuki and will be doing some mods similar to what you have done here to get it to lay flat and to fit between the lugs. He has been busy but I am interested to see how it turns out. As we discussed before trying to get something to connect the band to the end link that lays flat but adds just a touch of clearance and looks like the gen set up. My gen just entered the US this morning coming back from MY restoration .

Nice one Nook! Jeez there's another watch to add to my 'to do' list. For the record I've had an eta 2846 in my DRSD1665 for seven years now and it's never missed a beat. In fact the watch as a whole is pretty indestructible I treat it with a suitable level of abuse and it just keeps on going exactly as a gen would do but at a fraction of the cost and I would like to suggest at a greater level of satisfaction. The piece you have created is a perfect workhorse and my advice is to treat it with utter abandon, the jobs I've found particularly helpful have been those of a building nature - lots of knocks and scrapes, also plumbing helps - confined spaces, wrenches and dirty water a great combination! Wear it well and in good health my friend and as ever watch out for them big brown beasties.