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Just in: Tudor 7928 SCG mods by Tripdog👌

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If in Europe you can contact @SSTEEL

I started of lusting after a gen 6263 years ago, but alas, even then they were just too expensive. Today, they're even crazier in price (especially the Gen 1 exotic dial). Over the years I've collected/sold and wore a bunch of different Gen Rolex's: Submariner, Daytona (modern) and GMT II for almost 20 years now. I got the bug to get a 6263, but as I stated earlier, the Gen was just not in the cards. So I joined several replica watch forums and started to dig deeper. I was not satisfied at all with what I saw coming from dealers (price range from $180 - $350). They just looked "off" to me. The deeper I dug, the more it became evident that I would be looking into a Superfranken custom build. I contacted one of the well known "builders" on RWI and here's what we ended up with: Gen hands Gen crystal Gen tube Gen crown Gen braclet - 78350 w/571 endlinks Gen bezel Gen insert Gen mk2 pushers Fully converted Valjoux 727 Custom case Custom dial - specially aged Originally, it had a Tiffany & Co. dial and a rep bezel. The T & C. dial caused WAY too much unwanted attention as that's basically a one-off watch and worth close to $1 million. So I sent it back to my builder for a standard dial and to install a gen bezel.

That bracelet looks very nice, honestly I have never seen a pam on steel👌

“This just in...” Thanks again@Kilowattore. Also got some Perlon straps that I ordered plus a free one(the red and blue NATO...) The “James Bond” 6538 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

As different as night and day but they both endure through the ages. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greetings from Greece

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-J730F met Tapatalk

Great white Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Good morning. I just want to give you a quick comparison of kelo to timegraph. With kelo you can only set the speed. It also seems to have an error of 5-10 seconds + or - per day. If you are using kelo, be sure and move only the lever with the brass top. DO NOT MOVER THE ONE WITH THE SILVER TOP. THAT IS THE BEAT LEVER!!!!! With timegraph you not only can adjust the speed but the beat error and actually change the amplitude. Adjusting a watch on timegrapher is quite complicated and requires a lot of patience. With a timegrapher you can move the lever with the silver top, but be very careful, because it is very very sensitive. The combinations of adjustments on a movement are almost endless. When regulating a movement make ONE, AND ONLY ONE ADJUSTMENT AT A TIME. If you change positions on the timegraph, in other words move from dial down to the side position, give it at least 1-2 minutes to stabilize. The only way to know how to adjust a movement is on the job training. I suggest you start with an old movement to see what changes your input does. It will take a while to learn what happens when you move something. It can take a long time, so be patient, you'll get it.

When u do find a good Rep, try to find a watchsmith that is willing to work on one then u can enjoy it for 10+years. Keep up on the forum and the forumners will always point u in the right direction. Oh and I'm loving my ARF Rolex Sea Dweller. Great ootb Rep

"Ruby reply today , 1680 case is 680$+50$ custom engraving+shipping." Just for fun, here are some of my cases with prices from the past: March 2011 - like new Yuki 1680 case...$420 from 'Stilty'. Traded it for a like new Phong 1655 case/dial with a member. Still have the 1655 case...stalled out for a long time by GMT movement parts search. Finally have all the parts...around $2500 so far including 1575 movement/GMT parts etc. August 2011 - used DW 5513 case, no case back...$50. Put a 'River' case back from sapphire Exp II and Clark bezel kit on it. Had a 1520 with Yuki dial in it for a while. Put the mvt in an MBK 5513. Still have the DW case. March 2012 - two new MBK 1680 watches from Narikaa...$800 for the pair, delivered. Put a 1575 and Yuki dial in one case for a while, other watch is still complete. One had a nice 93150 bracelet with hollow mid links, other had 93150 with solid mid links. Dials were Ok but had been roughly ground down to fit in 26.0mm dial seat. Machined the dial window for the 26.5mm 1680 dial. 2011/2012 - about 10 new assorted DW cases, some 5513, some 1680, some unmarked. Paid $150 to $200 for them. All are 1680 spec. Still have them. A lot of posts probably still up about them. September 2013 - one new IG44 1680 case from a member, $300. Best finished case of them all (that I have). The lugs have a slight 'canoe' shape (side view). Have a no hack 1575 and early genuine 1680 dial for it...the mvt/dial combo is in a DW case now. May 2014 - one 5513 and one 5512 case from Yuki plus one 'free' dial...$1100 for it all. Very good cases. Still have them. January 2017 - complete new MBK 5512 watch with 2836 etaclone and bracelet (oyster with riveted on side plates and solid links) from RWG member...$400. Put a Yuki dial and rolex 1570 in it. Notes: All MBK cases (5512/13, 1680) that I have are genuine rolex 1680 spec except they are made for a 26.0mm dial. If you make a 5512/13 with rolex 15xx movement you will need to use a 1575 date calendar spacer, center wheel, and cp. All DW cases (5513, 1680) that I have are genuine 1680 spec and all have a dial seat/window made for a 26.5mm dial. If you make up a 5512/13 you will have to use the date parts same as with an MBK case and there will be a space between the outer edge of the dial and case because of the 1680 spec 26.5mm dial and 26.0mm 5512/13 dial. I have seen pictures and read about early genuine 5512 with a space showing. Someone could make up a pretty good early 5512 with the dial gap and PCG and the rounded sides would add to the character. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207593/thread/1468292473/last-1468326320/View+All DW cases are high quality but the sides are rounded like a DJ, not flat, giving them an 'aged' look. The lug holes may be a hair too close to the lug tops when drilled out to 1.3mm or so. The case necks are a hair too small and it is hard to find a 1680 crystal that fits exactly. Making up a 5512/13 is not as bad because T19 crystals come in many sizes (GS crystals for example). DW watches came with 'spring wire' bezels and need a Clark, ST etc. bezel kit. The engraved numbers are Ok but many are unmarked. Some DW cases have undersize case back threads...oem is 30.9mm, some DW are 30.4mm. This is Ok as long as you have a set. MBK cases are very high quality but have laser engraving. In my experience Yuki cases are first class quality, same goes for my one Phong 1655 case. IG44 is hard to beat but IG44 is looong gone. I would spend the $$ on a good case if you want a watch to keep. Get one that is OEM spec so if you decide to put a genuine movement in it now or later. A Yuki etc. case with good dial and genuine movement will probably cost between $2200 and $2700 now because of jacked up prices. You could start out with an ETA 2846 or something and dial made for an ETA then go with a genuine movement later if you want something to wear while looking for a genuine movement etc. Be a good idea to stay away from 'big crown' projects with 1030 base rolex movements because of high $$ parts. The rolex 15xx parts situation is not too bad...yet. ETA is a LOT cheaper. Here is the info on one of my MBK 5513 projects a few years ago, 2011 or 2012 iirc (I have posted this before). It ended up costing about $1300. I still have it but it is apart. $300 or less for case (can not remember exactly) $102 for Yuki dial $25 for TC tube and crown $12 for ST hands $650 for 26 jewel rolex 1520 mvt $20 for mainspring etc $0 for c/o (did it myself) $85 for fake 358 hoods and put together '93150' bracelet, also have a folded oyster from 'Mary' that adds up to about the same $12 for GS crystal $68 for ST bezel kit (better fit than MBK bez with the GS crystal that was used) $25 misc...springbars, gaskets, case screws etc Had to use a 1575 date center wheel/cp and calendar spacer on the 1520 because the MBK 5513 case is made to 1680 spec, not 5513 spec. Extra cost is included with movement. The center sweep sec pivot is the same on 1520 and 1575, the 1575 second hand has a longer tube.