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5510 Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A520F met Tapatalk

I started this project about a year ago but never finished it so I took another run at it recently. Here is what was done and where it stands : Standard last edition JMB '1016' case. Probably the best affordable '1016' project case available. Swiss ETA 2824/2846 'combo' movement. Combo = 2824 main plates with 2846 wheel train and balance assembly. Why the combo movement? Because the case was made for a 2824 date movement and I wanted a lower beat rate (2824 = 28800 bph 2846 = 21600 bph...1016 was 18000 for early models and 19800 for later models). My 2846 are all day and date models and thicker (5.2mm) than a 2824 (4.7mm). The dial is an oem spec example that 'Stilty' got for me 6 or 8 years ago. Pretty good dial. Removed the dial feet for this project. Movement was c/o and assembled, ran fine. The movement spacer was a good fit in the case with just a little slack. The spacer is a good fit on the movement. The spacer is 26.05 ID x 29.1 OD x 2.35mm thick. The case/movement clamps were a good tight fit but pulling/pushing the crown can sometimes overcome their friction and move things around a little. Note: The dial mounts to the case spacer, not the movement on this particular project. There is no ETA calendar spacer used and a dial washer was used to keep the hour wheel in mesh. The movement would mount too far toward the back of the case if a calendar spacer was used. I tried it. 'Dial dots' were used to stick the dial to the movement spacer...dial dots were a bad move it turned out. Drilled the case tube hole out to approximately 2.5mm and tapped it for a standard older type 6.0 ST (external spline) case tube (3.0mm x .35mm case threads). Why? So I could use a genuine old style 6.0mm crown. Movement runs fine and it all looked very good when assembled. The trouble... The oem spec dial just barely has any room for centering error in the case because the dial window is 27.3mm and the dial OD is 27.9mm leaving only .3mm purchase on the outside edge of the dial to the inside of the case with the movement and dial centered. What was the problem? Maybe .3mm sounds like enough (and in theory it is) but with the dial mounted to the movement spacer with dial dots, the movement and spacer can move just enough when pulling/pushing the crown in and out to allow the dial center hole to rub the hour wheel/hour hand tube and stall the movement. Why? Because the dial dots ('slide dots' Ha!) will allow the dial to slide on the case spacer What's the fix? Maybe make a precision movement spacer and cement the dial to the spacer with epoxy or Gorilla glue to hold it in place. Filing the dial center hole out a little bit might work too but it may also chip the dial paint. Do not want to take the chance. What's next? Nothing planned for now. May abandon the project and move on to something else, have not decided. If not a JMB case then what? Maybe a genuine 160xx case but they are getting expensive and many of them suffer from corrosion. Iirc a 2846 will work in them. A 160x 'slow set' case may also work but I have not tried one.

nice dail. shipped from the Netherlands I see...one of the bigger watch and jewelrystores specialised in vintage watches

Love the Pam 127 dude... and have a hankering for a 47 Luminor. What's your favourite 47mm? Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Phong 5512 Just enjoying a cold IPA and a little relaxing time after mowing the yard on this beautiful Sunday evening. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Long project but done! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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You could try bending the flat washer and see if that works. The click spring just keeps the bezel moving in the correct direction, so it's shouldn't be your problem. You could try an aftermarket bezel and see if it's tighter. The crystal retention ring and the bezel need to fit together well. You might have to order both parts, maybe as a set and see if it works. Pretty much a matter of mix and match to see what works.

Legno Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Sly Tech Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Brass vintage Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Siluro Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Getting a black sub from Sead. I'm leaning towards the JF because I prefer the SH3135 than the SA3135. But I'm not sure about the rest of the watch. Any one care to offer some input? Actual pictures would be great! Thanks