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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/29/2018 in all areas
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The watch looks nice, but I must mention one thing. Please don't go into Rolex stores showing off your watch- that is one of the caveats on all of the rep forums. The ADs probably aren't going to do anything, but we don't want to call unneeded attention to our hobby. Your first bezel wasn't correct and it was noticed by the AD. I also don't think the insert should be above the bezel- the insert is supposed to snap into the bezel- that's the way it was designed to fit by Rolex. When it sits above the bezel, that means it's been glued in there and everyone who knows anything about Rolexes knows that's wrong.2 points
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Just picked up this GMT Master ii from Andrew at TT, what a great customer service experience! All questions were answered in less than an hour generally and shipping took about 4 days from shipping date to my house in the US. The Watch is a noob best edition and I must say it's 9.8/10 almost perfect! If you're looking for this Watch don't hesitate buying from Andrew he will take care of you!1 point
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Just sharing some of my current collection of watches not in the safe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk1 point
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Your 7 inch wrist will have no problems pulling off any 42, or even 44mm ROO. The thickness of the watch is more apparent when examined off the wrist, compared to when viewed on the wrist as the flesh of the wrist tend to obscure the caseback. Unless you are specifically looking for it and are very familiar with the gen ROO profile, the thickness is not discernible by most people when worn on the wrist. Yes, the rep is about 2mm thicker as a fact. But this is observed only by guys in the hobby, like us, and not by the common man off the street.1 point
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Best place for you to go is your sofa with a drink and spend a few nights reading threads here. You don’t say what models you are seeking, but Noob is not always the best maker. As for Swiss movement of course, most of us would say of course not. Generally you are paying a premium for a movement pulled from a secondhand watch, repaired possibly with a mix of used and Chinese components and probably none of this done in a clean workspace. Save your money, buy a clone movement version and if at a later date you want to go Swiss, buy a new clean movement from a reputable parts supply house, it’s a straight swop Welcome to the forum and enjoy your time here1 point
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Ok - So I had a summarized build-thread already, but it was lengthy and I wanted to start fresh with a new post, as I am now calling the watch finished. Since the last post I have swapped the hands and added a genuine clasp to the bracelet. Special thanks again to Dbane, NeckyZips, MillerDave and Yuki as well as other members I picked up various odds and ends from. Many thanks to the community over-all for the insight, wisdom and motivation to build this. Spec's 1680 style sterile case - transformed by Dbane with gorgeous bevels and finish-work. I drilled out the lug-holes myself, but they needed some extra help, as did everything else. Spot-on mid-case engraving done by Neckyzips. Genuine 5512 Caseback - sourced from VRF - with Genuine OEM Rolex 5513 case-back sticker from eBay/Germany applied. Genuine Rolex T-19 Plexi Genuine 55xx hands - steel, sourced on eBay, relumed by Big Dazza. Replaced gilt/bright gold hands in favor of these. Genuine Rolex 700 Crown and Tube Genuine Rolex cal.1520 movement, completely rebuilt with new (genuine) auto-rotor and main-spring by master watchmaker Genuine Clasp mounted to rep Rivet Oyster Bracelet (StoneP sourced) - have genuine spring-bars and 2 other straps. Genuine Bezel assembly with aged rep insert sourced from Big Dazza Yuki 5513 Gilt Underline Dial - relumed and aged by Big Dazza, genuine foot-stem positions for a smooth fit This is my first build here - really thrilled with it all together. Here's the link to the original thread and again, these shots were taken with Canon EOS DSLR with 35mm lens. Tuned in Photoshop. For sale, $34,500.00 (clearly, I have no wish to part with it, ha-ha)1 point
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Thanks for the kind words! Added 2-14-17 Fitting bezels on 5512/13/1680 etc: 1...If you plan to do much crystal fitting, you will need a precision digital caliper, not a $12.99 cheapo, a good one...if you do not have one already. 2...Measure the OD of the crystal after it is pushed down on the case neck...write it down. Measuring a loose crystal is usually not going to give an accurate measurement. 3...Measure the ID of the inner (crystal retaining) bezel...write it down. 4...The inner crystal retaining bezel needs to be around .1mm to .2 mm smaller than the crystal (measured on the watch). 5...Use a heavy duty bezel press with metal dies if possible, plastic dies are usually too flimsy. You will soon develop a 'feel' for proper fit. Mine is an old Japan made 'BB' press from way back and now reproductions are available at 'affordable' prices. Here are BB styles with tapered and straight wall dies and you can find these presses at reasonable prices if you look around. The second listing has a much better price. http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/product12034.html http://collectionsmall.stores.yahoo.net/wacaprcrprwi.html Here is a cheapo model that might be Ok: https://www.amazon.com/Watch-Crystal-Press-Watchmaker-Repair/dp/B000RB3HRU The frame is probably made out of 'pot metal'. BB type bases are made out of cast iron. The general rule is cheapo tools = broken parts....but not always. Imho... Genuine crystals are over rated, especially on project watches. I have used GS crystals for 40 years and never had any problems and their crystals for vintage no date submariners come in 4 or 5 sizes. Sternkreuz are Ok too but sometimes not a precision fit. Like I said many times before...when you find a crystal that fits...buy 3 of them. Many no name 'internet' crystals are out of spec, sometimes from one batch to the next. Many no name internet bezel kits are not too hot either. The better sets come from Clark, watchman408 (on eBay) and ST in my experience. Better = they fit.1 point