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Here the answer from the king of legend. Thanks.

"She has a few that you can pick from that are pretty sad looking." I too have noticed some of the higher priced dial offerings from the so called 'Premier Dealers" are not too hot. "When I asked about a nicer (dial) there was a 500 min $24.95 Per." Probably the same dials with better QC. My guess is the 'Premier Dealers' and dial makers are all in cahoots and the dial makers sell to them almost exclusively. "I just don’t think there’s magic to the guys that have the market cornered." I have a friend in the printing business and he figured it would cost $3000 to $5000 to get started in the dial printing business (dials without applied markers), including 2 or 3 cliché plates but not counting the dial blanks. He also said the same thing I did...applying the lume is the ONE thing that requires special training and/or practice. His estimate was for a high quality manually operated precision pad printer setup...not a low priced unit from eBay. Not counting the cost of the pad printer, each dial would probably cost $20 to $40 to make if you apply your own lume. If the dials are good enough to sell for $150 each...there is $$ to be made after paying for the printer. If a dial has two or more colors of letters/markers it means each dial will have to be printed 2 or 3 times so a high precision pad printer is required. You will also need an air brush and compressor to paint the dial blanks plus paint, thinner, print ink, and lume material. If you want 'Singer' Beyeler' etc stamped on the dial blanks, it will require a custom made stamp of some sort. A dedicated hobbyist could master the pad printing 'art' in a few months...if they were serious about it and have good eye to hand coordination and dexterity.

@Kastro I doubt there was ever a 44mm diver. There are 42mm ROOs and divers, 44mm ROOs, and 48mm ROOs (T3/Legacy/Shaq). The Royal oaks come in sizes of 33, 37, 39 and 41mm. The A7750 sec@12 movement has been improved for the recent batches, and the key issue is friction. A proper service and swiss mainspring replacement will alleviate the friction issue and make the movement run a lot more reliably. One key to remember is to leave the chrono function well alone. Even for genuine AP calibers and LWO movements, the chrono function is not perfectly reliable. So if you are willing to treat the chrono and subdials as perfunctory decorations and avoid using the chrono, you have a much higher chance of having a watch with a long and healthy lifespan after a service. I do not even touch the chrono function on my gen ROOs. Trust me, even on the gen, the chrono function does not have sure-fire reliability.

To blue the case and get a even color you'll need a jewellery oven or pottery oven to get the right temperature.I have a color/temperature chart somewhere so I'll search for it and post it here. BTW ... may I suppose your cork says "vieillit dans nos chais" ? So you're a French wine fan, congrats !!! Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

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The group is here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1511488312214758/

Hello and to answer your questions 1. For ROOs (both 42 and 44mm), look for JF made ones. For the FC or ceramic divers specifically, look for XF v2. For the stainless steel diver, I think that the best one is still the JF v7. 2. For differences, you need to do some research, but I have summarized your purchase decisions above. 3. The 42mm ROO is a bulky watch to wear due to the case design and also the lug angle. But you alone can decide what wears big and what wears small. 4. To my knowledge, there has been no 44mm diver produced. Even the old scuba model 15340ST was 42mm. If you do know of a 44mm, please share with the group, we can all learn something new.