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I tried the gen PAM979 in London's AD last week and bought this from Trusty and can only say in the flesh it actually looks better than the gen due to being slightly darker. This photo has been adjusted a tad, however what a stunner!

This is without any playing with the shot but with light reflecting on the right side. AJ

7 days in a row Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

New tech and an old timeless classic

I've been getting quite a few emails about building a 6542, and I don't think I'm anywhere near an expert on these builds, but there's not a whole lot out there regarding one of these builds, so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. To start with, The PT 6542 complete watch is not a good base. Nothing on it is gen-spec, or could be made gen-spec. Like I say, I'd go with the 1655 case and grind it down. It's a bigger case, so you could get really damn close by just grinding it down - there's no problems like the stubby CG's on the 5513s. Just do a lot of checking on VRF - find a case you like and make it look exactly like that one. I don't remember what case I used. It was a Silix case, but one of the first I ever bought. From the email I dug up (in 2011), it was a ROL170. I don't know if he has that model anymore, or if you could figure it out from the pictures. I have the pics, and the watch started out as a 6538 (kind of) - it was really, really wrong, and had things like a small crown, wrong size springbar holes, wrong bezel, and so on. My personal recommendation would be not to go with a Silix at all, if you intend on using JoeyB's bezel and insert. They're too nice for a POS Silix rep (even though that's what a few people here swear by). The case is not gen-spec in any way at all. The crystal is glued inside, not outside a lip like gen, the bezel probably won't swap over without heavy modifications, and so on. My recommendation would be actually using a 1655 rep from The Cartel. What I've seen is grinding off the crownguards, thinning the case just a bit, thinning the caseback, drilling the lugs, and retapping for a gen small crown. The reason for this is because the 1655 rep will accept a gen 116 with no trouble, and uses gen bezel construction, so the bezel should swap over with no problem. I would use a gen 116 if you can get one (or a 115, whichever it is - don't remember the exact number) because it really does sparkle and look much, much better than any aftermarket. Next, the dial. I used an Ingod 6542 dial which had the lip ground off. To my eyes, it is closest to gen. However, the lume is awful. My dial arrived with all of the lume basically rubbed off. I would have it relumed by the modder of your choice (either glow or non-glow) and you should be as good as you can get. The dial will need to be glued onto a sort of "spacer" so that it can be attached to the movement. I think it was ground down (the lip) and JB welded onto a flat disc that functioned like a dial spacer. Not sure though. The InGod dial I used was messed with by PB and JMB. Not sure what they did, but I know they both hate me for it! haha Next, the hands. I like Clarks hand, as they look a little more gen (for the old style) than anything I can find. There are flaws (like the minute hand being too short) and the tip on the hour hand is not quite the right shape, as well as the "rectangle" part of the hour hand being too short. If you look at gen pictures you'll see that the hand is a little longer than newer styles - check it out and you'll see what I mean. TBH, I don't remember where I got the small GMT hand. I think I got it from Raffles-Time, but I'm not sure. Next, the movement. I started out using the DG 2804 (or the 2813, whichever is the GMT version) and hated every minute of it. It's not as easy to swap as some people make it sound, and personally I like getting stuff working for a long while, not doing a constant tear down and repair all the time. For that reason, I used the 2836GMT. I know people can bash that movement, but if it's serviced, it shouldn't be a problem. The DWO should be a roulette, which I think someone on RWG is selling for like 20 Euros. Expensive, but worth it. Mine is OK for now, but it really does irk me and I'll probably upgrade it at some point... One of those things, you know. Finally, the bracelet. I would use either a folded 6210 Jubilee or a rivet 6636/7206 (stretch or no stretch). Those would be period correct (the first being custom at Rolex AD and the other being the PanAm standard issue). My recommendation would be to check out some on real auction sites or VRF and find one you like, and mod it to look like that. I think with some case reshaping, a good movement, proper relumed hands and dial, a good roulette wheel DWO and the Joey B bezel and insert, plus a killer bracelet you'd have a top notch 6542. Now go, and make some really awesome 6542s!

...so I figured I'd write up a little tutorial based on info I've scrounged up. Hope it helps! First things first, the case. I agree for the most part. My very first case/bezel was from Silix, as was freddy333's very first 6542 that I copied. Since then we've grown a bit. We have cases that do use the gen style crystal/bezel mount. I find this set-up to be much preferred. The PT 6542 is gen style crystal mount, but the rest of the case is not good at all. I have built both the cartel 1655 and the Tiger V2 versions now, and favor the Tiger V2 better shape, but was informed this past week by Rafflestime, onlinestorehk and Tiger Concepts that the V2 is no longer available. That leaves the cartel 1655 case as the current 'best choice'. With the crown guards ground off, and case slimming, mine is 38mm. This is also the one RolexAddict uses. The crown should not need redrilling/tapping. The 6mm gen should fit either case as is. The original crystal was a 25-115, but they are no longer in production, and when you can find a gen, it is expensive. The 25-116 is used as the replacement by Rolex. I find the Clark's 25-116 to be very close to the gen, and substantially less expensive. After about two weeks of wear, my clumsy ways will take that gen sparkle to no-man's land. 1655: Tiger V2: Next, the dial. Yep, any gen 6542 dial will need to either be mounted on a gen Rolex movement, or have the step ground off flat to fit ETA or DG movements. I learned that the hard way when I destroyed a gen dial tring to get it to work on an ETA movement. But that led me to make my own from water slide decals. Essentially anything you can picture you can make a decal of. If your printer prints your photos, it will print dials. I bought a Canon Pixma 9600 dpi printer foe $150usd a few years back to get 'better' prints, and it just made puddles, too much ink. I backed that off to 5000 dpi now, and it is very good. Get a picture, adjust to your heart's content in your photo program, size, print, seal using Krylon Crystal Clear because the other sealers make the ink run. Apply, dry, lume. I use a water based acrylic 'Glow Paint' that gives the texture if Tritium on my dials and the inserts. You can color with kid's water color paint. Practice makes it better. Inkjet does not print white, so you can use white decal paper, or clear, as I do, and let the dial surface show through. With the decal, the 1655 has a real advantage in that you can use the dial that comes with it and simply 'refinish' it. The decal as printed on clear, the white is just the paper backing: Next, the hands. Agreed, I like Clark's as well, but he doesn't have them for the DG movement., I never noticed the longer hour hand! Now I have yet another quest, dammit! The longer minute hand can be had from Helenarou. It is the same length as the GMT hand, from center of mount to tip, 13mm. Current minute hands are 12mm. Rafflestime has the GMT hand that Ken and I worked on together, but it needs a touch of trimming at the tip. I measured the triangle at 1.3mm X 1.5mm X 1.5mm. For $50 less, I'll use 1500 grit sandpaper and trim. Next, the movement. My 1655 based 1675 and 6542 use the DG3804B movement. RolexAddict uses this movement on his builds as well. Finding the parts to convert the ETA to GMT function can be difficult. But this is where the cartel 1655 has the advantage. you can order the DG or the ETA, and all the internal case parts fit as designed. Refinish the dial, and you use the same spacers, case rings, clamps. etc. No crown height or clearance issues common to 6542 builds. And if you want the slow beat ETA 2846, it is the same configuration as the Asian ETA 2836, and you can transfer the GMT parts. It all fits. Finally, the bracelet. This is very much personal preference. I think that a 60 year old watch is likely to not have the original folded or riveted bracelet. Having a newer bracelet is not a problem to me at all. Another finally! Any date wheel overlay is a real pain. If someone can devise an easier method to line it up properly, let us all know! My first one was made by 'plucking' each number from a picture on line, and pasting it using my photo shop program. It worked, but not really great. In this thread many helped to make a proper vintage overlay, and I colored it. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/150660-vintage-dwos/page-2?hl=%20overlay I print it at 3000dpi, 205mm diameter on clear, self sticking mailing label. I paint the overlay the background color I want. Use at your own risk: Print, peel and stick. repeat. Print, peel and stick. repeat. Print, peel and stick. repeat. Print, peel and stick. repeat.