Leaderboard

Happy new year all. It’s been a little while since I’ve posted. One of my to do’s for 2019 is securing a beautiful 6538. A few years back it was all the craze here led by our knowledgeable CC33 and dbane. Let’s see them beauties. This is likely a long-term project for me.

They’re for an ETA 2836 movement I’m pretty sure, but that’s not a show stopper for a good watch smith. Now check Phong and MQ for bezels, and look at the tooth profiles.

Just bought them. I saw these before starting this thread but I was told they would not work with my movement. Now I need a bezel and an insert.

Good ole Ken @ rafflestimes. Been serving up good deals to the rep community for a good few years.

005 on black ostrich deployant. Sent from my POCOPHONE F1 using Tapatalk

Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

Okay, get comfortable ... this is going to take awhile. The project will take some time, but in the end it will be worth it. I have a little over 20 years into my 6535/1 project and it was (is) worth it. Let me start with some photos: In the first photo look at the profile to the bezel teeth. 2nd photo, look at the ring that holds the crystal on, onto which the bezel snaps. 3rd picture shows what's possible ... there's my original dial and crap hands, and a better aftermarket dial with another set of crap hands. I have since found a REALLY good set of aftermarket hands (no photo). 4th picture is approximately what it should look like finished. Mine is all handmade one-off aftermarket from perhaps 50 years ago, and really doesn't deserve to be on the same page as yours. But it's the only reference I've held in my hands. You have a rare one there. Your case is superb, the crown and bezel retaining ring look original, as does the crystal. The dial looks original too, but damaged, and poorly lumed. The seconds hand looks genuine, it's the very rare dauphine piece. You can find one like it from 1953 on the Rolex Passion Report. The minutes and hours hands are ...... wrong. It's one hell of a good starting point. Where do you start? First, a huge thank-you to the person that gave it to you. That was incredibly generous. Second, don't do ANYTHING to it for awhile. Well, you might get the movement serviced. It should have the A260 movement and there are a few people here that can do that for you. I wouldn't hesitate to send them any of my vintage pieces for a service. Now you start the search. The bezel from a 6536 will fit, but not a 6538. There are several tooth profiles available, so hunt around for one that best matches pic #1. It should be silver plated over yellowish metal. Make sure the seller assures you a red triangle bezel insert from a 37mm case will fit. It should snap onto your bezel retaining ring snugly, if it doesn't we have a guy here that can machine you the ring and it will all go together beautifully. The crystal appears to be original tropic-16. If it was me I'd keep it, and start polishing the hell out of it with a t-shirt to smooth out the gouges. It's cracked but you're not going diving. If you want a replacement, GS or Sternkreuz have pieces that fit. You must make this decision before you attempt the bezel/ring/crystal fit to the case. The crystals have different wall thicknesses. See above. Okay bezel, insert, ring, crystal and case all go together. Now the hands. There's a guy on eBay that sells sets once in a blue moon and they're perfect. They're made in Rolex 1030 or ETA 2838/Miyota 9125 sizes. I'll try to hunt around and find where I got mine. Either size can be made to work, given a motivated watch smith. I did my 6538 like that ... the hard way. The dial. Holy smokes the dial. Pretty sure that's a poor aftermarket dial, so really that's a good thing. If it was gen you'd have a bunch of bigger problems. Hunt around for a good aftermarket dial, you'd be surprised what's available with the reverse gilt just like genuine. It will take a lot of "radium dust" aging. This is a "Tonnywatch" dial from when he was in business. Other aftermarket sources are out there, like Phong and MQ. They make good stuff (most of the time) but they're pricey. All the pieces are done, now find someone to put it together. We have lots of those guys here too. It will be a matter if "fitting" the parts together, not unlike working on old British cars. You'll want an artist, not just a mechanic. While he's doing that, find a nice black leather alligator strap for it, or a Yuki 7206 rivet oyster band. Then take lots of photos and show us how she turned out. Congratulations in advance!

Good morning... Lazy Sunday in my bunker... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

This is a worthy endeavour but be prepared to pay 2 or 3 times what you anticipated. I built a couple based on Silix etc oversized cases and they were just .... wrong. The 6536 Small Crown is tiny on the wrist and thinner than you can imagine. The 6538 uses roughly the same dimensions but it's thicker. It's very hard to get the right relative size to the pieces. Look at mine and Bart's ... the bezel has to extend over the edge of the case just the slightest amount on the 9:00 side and the 3:00 side is tougher. The big crown has to clear the bezel by just a smidgen and it has to seat next to the case. I wound up experimenting with countersinking my gen 702 tube into the case to get just the right clearances. The bezel can't be too thick top to bottom and it needs the slightest gap underside between the case and bezel ... they're not supposed to rub. The lugs begin the curve of the top surface at the flat ring beneath the bezel, and are already curving down and away as they appear beneath the coin edge. Most cases extend the flat surface out too far before they begin the curve. The sides are not vertical, so you have to make sure the tube hole is drilled parallel to the deck, not perpendicular to the side. Then there's the much coveted "canoe" shape to the lugs as their tips extend downward. Phong and MQ do this, but you have to be relentless with MQ so he knows that you know he's willing to send you crap, and push him into sending the good stuff. He'll complain ... who cares? Be politely pushy and do not take no for an answer. As for the crystal, a gen T-17 will cost more than a cheap car, and it's really the only correct part. Watch out for aftermarket pieces sold in "genuine wax envelopes", those are easy to fake too. When you're done you'll have an icon and you'll be astounded how small it is. You'll forget you're wearing it, which is exactly how these are supposed to be. Remember they are tools, nothing more. A commercial diver straps on his watch (or they used to!) as part of his rig... it's just a tool. The only care you give it when you're at work is once in awhile you remember not to smash it as you're moving something heavy. I have over 1,000 hours as a commercial diver and watches are only in the way, the divemaster is in charge anyway. But it's a good backup. So 6538 or 5510 or 1665, it's a tool to be cared for by keeping it clean, tested and regulated. It will show signs of much use, and much care, and keep great time. My 1665 has new seals and the band is stretched beyond belief. That's about perfect. Good luck on this adventure! Make sure you get a GOOD dial and case, and the rest you can improve over time as funds allow. It's gonna be expensive.

5510 counts?

Nanuq, that is what I am talking about!

This old thing??? [emoji2]