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I've said this all before in bits and pieces. Here it is, all in one spot. All imho. Below is a 'Cliff Notes' version of my experience with 'Quality vs Junk' watch movements and I've had my share of each to say the least. Almost all of the 'Quality' part of the experience was witnessed before I mis-adventured into the wide-wide world of replicas. I have owned many quality genuine mechanical watches including Bulova, Longines, Omega, Mido, Girard Perregaux, Zodiac, Rolex, Patek, V&C, AP, JLC, Cartier, and others. A few had common A Schild, ETA etc. movements, some had modified A/S, ETA etc. while others had 'in house' movements. What brands gave the least trouble? Looking back, I would say Bulova/Longines/Rolex manual wind, and 1530 base automatic Rolex...plus most brands with ETA, A/S etc. Two of my favorites, Zodiac and GP were Ok but their modified A/S movements have overly complicated date works, especially if they have a day and date. Many Bulova models had slightly modified Swiss movements made for Bulova and were easy to work on and find parts. Brands with ETA movements do not give much trouble and when they do need c/o and/or parts, they are easy to work on and parts are easy to find...for now. No doubt the friendly Swatch outfit is trying to cut ETA parts off just like every other swissy NP-FY watch company. I can't really comment on Patek, V&C, Cartier, Patek etc. because I never owned one very long or wore one much at all. I do not want to get stuck with one of these brands with an 'in house' movement needing parts. I could get parts from PP, JLC and a few others in the past but my connections are all long gone along with just about everyone else's connection. My Cartier watches had ETA mechanical movements, ETA 2000 in Tank Franchaise, ETA 2892 in Pasha, and ETA quartz in a Santos. They were all older models and it looks like Cartier has gone 'in house' or using exclusive movements now...anything to keep the $$$ 'in house'. Have a couple quartz Ebel watches needing Cartier type 'in house' movements and I will probably substitute an ETA movement for the 'in house' movement. Already fixed a couple Ebel 'Sport Wave' watches that way and the first one has been running since June 2010. Now for the JUNK: Almost ALL of the JUNK was a replica of some sort with an etaclone or miyaclone movement. Also had some trouble with ST19 Seagull chronographs but not much. Have a few A7750 watches but they are still nos because to tell the truth...I do not have the guts to wear one because I do not want to have to fix it. To be fair, I have had pretty good experience with most of the Miyota clones...Seagull ST16/NN/DG etc, but have had more than a few duds too, mostly assembly mistakes, dry of oil, or dirty. The ST16 is a Miyota/Seiko clone with Miyota type running gear and a version of the Seiko 'Magic Lever' winding system. Most Seagull ST6 autos have been Ok. Parts are not much of a problem for the '21 jewel' clones in general because you can buy another movement for $25/$40 or get needed parts from a 'parts movement'. You are always going to have a few 'parts movements' if you work on this...shall we say it politely, JUNQUE. Never owned any of the current crop of 3135/3235/4130 rolexaclones but from what I have read they are either Ok or NOT Ok off the bat or soon after...many being NOT Ok. When one goes out of whack, parts are a big problem and some who work on them buy high $$ genuine parts to replace defective replica parts, but that runs into a LOT of $$ quickly...plus labor. So...it looks to me like everyone is basically on their own with rolexaclones. I for one do not need the hassle because finding and buying parts to fix a genuine rolex is bad enough. A DJ/OPD/AK/5512-13/1680/16610 etc. with a freshened swisseta 28xx would be a better bet for me. Typos are free.

This is my latest.

Finally completed...

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