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2-9-2023 Another useless FYI...for anyone who wants to change a rolex 1565/1575 date movement to a no date model for use in a no date case, here are a few things you might need to know... 1...You can almost always get by with the regular date center wheel, canon pinion, and hour wheel. The only thing this really does is raise the hands about .5mm. This is usually Ok and it will make a little bit more room between the hands and dial...domed acrylic crystals are almost always high enough to accommodate it. No date hour wheel is 1.27mm high. Date hour wheel is 1.80mm. The canon pinion (the minute hand tube) rises up out of the hour wheel just enough for the minute hand to mount so the overall result is raising all of the hands aka 'hand stack' a little over .5mm, depending on how close the second hand is to the minute hand. There is almost always room under acrylic crystals. No guarantees. On MBK cases for example (all of mine anyway), you need to use a rolex 15xx date movement with the date works removed because the cases are made for date movements with the calendar wheel spacer left on the movement. This is done when using a no date dial, 5512/5513 for example. This is easy because you only need to remove the actual date works. Nothin' to it. There is always a catch (or two) when using a date 15xx movement on genuine spec Ruby etc. cases made for rolex 15xx no date movements and dials. Q...Like what? A...You need to remove the calendar wheel axle (the little post with the left-hand thread, round, slotted nut on it). Q...Why? A...Because the calendar wheel post hits the bottom of the dial and the dial will not fit down against the movement, because it hits the post. Q...How to remove it? A...Pull it out with a small pin vice by twisting and pulling up on it. But there is always another catch... Q...What is it this time? A...The date movement hour wheel has a wheel (gear) on top of it that drives the calendar wheel. Q...So what? A...It usually rubs the bottom of the dial when the calendar wheel spacer has been removed and locks the movement down...usually. Q...What can be done about it? A1...Space the dial away from the movement with 'dial dots' etc. It works but is a crude fix. A2...Grind the extra wheel off somehow. Q...How? A...Superglue the hour wheel to a small steel rod that fits inside the hour wheel, put it in a lathe, and cut the wheel away. Nothin' to it. Q...What if I do not have a damn lathe? A1...Superglue the hour wheel on a piece of steel rod and spin it by hand against a Cratex type grinding wheel mounted on a Dremel tool etc. Carefully. A2...Mount the steel rod in the Dremel tool with the hour wheel superglued to it, and spin it against a medium grit grinding stone etc. Carefully. Less chance of screw-ups using this method. Q...How do I get the hour wheel 'unglued' from the steel rod? A...Acetone, same as you use to remove your nail polish. After all the pitfalls above are defeated, place the hour wheel on the movement, put the dial on the watch (making sure it seats against the movement), tighten the dial screws, and see how much slack there is between the hour wheel and bottom of the dial by lifting the hour wheel up against the dial with tweezers. A tiny bit is Ok...too much and the hour wheel can come out of mesh and get the hands out of correspondence. Q...What is the fix this time? A...A dial washer. Nothin' to it. I cut the calendar drive wheel off a 1575 date hour wheel to use on a no date project with a date movement a while ago. Here is what the hour wheel looks like after the calendar drive wheel is cut off: The hour wheel is superglued to a .85mm drill bit (on the smooth end) and clamped in a 'WW' collet. It will look better after it is cleaned up. Grinding the wheel off gives the same result if no lathe is available. This is the same movement that was in my 'shortcut 1655', it came out of a 1603 DJ and this is the hour wheel from it. Or you can use a no date center wheel, CP, and hour wheel ($$), but you still need to remove the calendar wheel post.

"I disassembled the movement from the back side taking the bridge plate off." " I didn't realize that getting the bridge plate back on with all the wheels aligned would be so difficult..." I know what you mean, these movements are a hassle to put together because of the train wheels, escape wheel, and reverser all crammed under one plate. I detest them. The easiest way is to remove the balance assembly first as this leaves more room, then put the movement together and install the balance last. The downside is when r/r the balance, you risk tweaking the hairspring. "...is it unique part number only for this movement?" Yes, unless China clone parts will fit. "i should try to see if i can find a watchmaker who has the missing part..." In my experience, unless you know a friendly watch repair guy, you could get robbed. This is harsh advice, but sometimes true, especially today with fewer repair guys around who are willing to help someone out. You could buy a China clone of the Miyota 8200 (plus a 'no name' dial/cheap set of hands) and practice, practice, practice until you get the hang of disassembly/assembly if you want to learn how to work on one. Then buy a new 8215 or repair yours and install it. China clone parts might fit the Miyota...but you would be paying $20+ for the parts when a complete new Miyota 2015 is only $10 more. Some China clones are pretty good, depending on brand, prior handling etc. The better clones are DG (Dixmont Guangzhou) or NN (Nanning) but the brands are usually not specified. Otoh, some are pretty bad too, it's luck of the draw. When buying a replacement movement, be sure it is a 'Miyota 8215' NOT 'Movement for Miyota 8215.' Examples: China clone...eBay item number: 394408095202 $20.15 Miyota 8215...eBay item number:293795133957 $29.99 Imho the Miyota is a better deal, but you still need to be able to r/r dials and hands without damage. This requires practice, practice, practice. And patience.

This is 1 of the most objective, no-nonsense Rolex videos I have seen, especially for women -- I Finally Got My Hands On a Rolex!