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Finished the project 1002 'explorer' this afternoon. Everything worked Ok except for having to cut the calendar drive wheel off the hour wheel so it would not rub the dial and stop the movement. Other than that, the tube on the second hand is a little bit short but as long as the hand stays on, it will be Ok. It runs fine and I'll wear it a few days and see how it goes. It looks exactly like the other 1002 'explorer' I stuck together in May 2014 (Raff bezel, Yuki dial etc.) except this case was made in 1962 and has a 1575 date movement with the date works removed and the other case was made in 1964 and has a no date 1560 in it. I robbed the strap and .925 silver buckle off the first one and put it on this watch so I can wear it. I had to cut a couple hundredths mm out of the ID of a Raffles 34mm tudor bezel for this watch when using the GS PA459-37 crystal. Most rolex type acrylic crystals will be smaller at the top and quite a bit bigger at the bottom where the bezel clamps down over it, so the bezel seemed to fit Ok, but when I went through the procedure below, the bezel needed to be cut a bit. If the bezel is too tight, the crystal can crack and you might not see it because the bezel usually covers the crack. This is a common problem, especially with project watches and is something to look out for. Fitting an acrylic rolex type crystal... Measure the ID of the bezel in two or three places and write it down, a few hundredths mm +/- is Ok but if it is out of round very much, it will be hard to get an accurate measurement. Next. push the crystal down on the watch case by hand and measure the OD at the top and at the bottom of the crystal in two or three places and write them down. The crystal should be a light press fit by hand...too tight and the crystal skirt may crack. If it is loose on the case, measure it by the method below and usually the bezel will tighten it up. If possible, always use a metal digital caliper for measuring, and when measuring the bottom of the crystal on the case, squeeze the caliper jaws tightly against the skirt of the crystal next to the case and check the measurement in two or three places. Be sure to squeeze the caliper by pinching the jaws where they contact the crystal...not by tightening the adjustment wheel. Sometimes a crystal will squeeze down .10 or more when measuring it at the base and this can result in a leaky crystal if it is not allowed for. Worse than that, the crystal and bezel both can get knocked off by hitting a door frame etc. What's next? Probably a 1962 tutone AK 5501 'explorer'. It has been in the 'fixit box' since November 2005. The case and movement are in good condition, but it has a ratty refinished dial with a dent in it. Dent? It will need c/o, mainspring, crystal, dial, hands, case tube, crown, crystal etc.. The regular rolex tune-up...about $1000 at the friendly rolex store. Btw, I paid $450 for the watch. Wrist Time. 'Explorer' 1002 #2... Wall Time. Wooden Ray-Ban advertising clock, probably from 1970s... Sterling silver (.925) buckle on the 1002 from a watch show 20+ years ago...

If the main TDs can't get it I wouldn't risk it on an unknown website. Unless you're willing to wait for a m2m or a fatcory to restart production I'd go with the piece gasebah mentioned above. There's only a few mm difference. I know your heart is set on a 3800 but sometimes you need to compromise. There just isn't much of a market for small pps so I doubt you'll see much movement in this area in the future.

Depending on the year, I have to wonder if this was an inspiration for Frank Mueller Crazy Hours.

That is a VERY pretty watch. Love the numbers.

You know you are tainted when you have so many nice timepieces that something like this 6536/1 (which was 1 of Nanuq's favs) gets lost in the crowd. Well, it found its way onto my wrist for the 1st time in ages today, so I thought I would shoot a quick pic --