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"Mounting this DWO is a huge pain in the ass, and finding a nice one is a bit of a challenge these days I think." "If it were me i'd use a 3135 clone movement and find a nice case for it. I think that would be easier overall, but might require more patience." Good advice. On aftermarket 36mm DJ cases: Cases made for 'Asian 21 jewel' movements, ETA 2836, and Asian etaclone 2836 movements may be a little bit thicker than cases made for 3135 clones and ETA 2824 spec movements but usually not enough to be noticed. 'Usually' being the key word here with anything replica. Common 'Asian 21 jewel' movements are DG, NN etc. patterned after genuine Miyota (Citizen) cal 82xx movements. Cases made for the 3135 clone movements will usually also accept ETA 2824 and Asian etaclone 2824 movements. Usually. Asian 3135 clone movements come in two or three versions, read up on them and get the best one. The downside is there is no spare parts network. Problems: Any Swiss or Asian etaclone 2824/2836 will need a date wheel overlay (aka DWO) so the date numbers will line up in the date opening in the dial, both genuine dials and 'in spec' aftmkt dials. DWOs are available on eBay etc. The 2836 movement is relatively easy to install a date wheel overlay on because it has more room between the date wheel and dial after the day of the week works are removed. The date also flips instantly on 2836 movements like a genuine modern Rolex but the 2824 changes the date slowly. The 2824 date wheel is also closer to the dial and the date wheel overlay may rub the dial. What is the fix? Use the spacer for a 2836 to raise the dial away from the date wheel overlay...but then the shorter 2824 hour wheel etc. mounts the hands too close to the dial. Many modders have used the 2824 hour wheel, canon pinion etc. with a DWO and spacer but the hands have to be straight and mounted very carefully. It all boils down to: Asian 3135 clones do away with all the DWO and dial hassles, but repair parts are not generally available and overall quality can vary. A new or freshly serviced Swiss ETA 2836 with a proper DWO and a high quality aftmkt case is probably the most reliable solution but with three downsides: 1...You have to cut the dial feet off. 2...You need a DWO. 3...It can be expensive if you can not do the work yourself. You could do a 'trial run' with an aftmkt case and your choice of movements with a 3135 spec dial and see how it goes. Rolex 3035 and 3135 take the same dials. Here are some low priced 3035/3135 DJ dials if you want to do a trial run first: Rolex Datejust Two-Tone Champagne Index Dial 36mm For Reference numb 16013 16233 | eBay They might be a little bit 'rough' but the price is right. Observation: In the past 15 or 20 years, genuine used Rolex dials and cases have gone UP in price 200% to 500% or more so be prepared if you look for a genuine case. Besides that, many genuine cases can have serious case corrosion by now. When I see a case or case back for sale pictured with the gasket in place, it makes me wonder what is hiding under the gasket. The case sides where the bracelet attaches to the case is also a garden for corrosion, starting out with black specks and/or small pin holes. Btw...NH movements are a dead end for Rolex DJ projects imho...very few Rolex spec parts made for them. Cheap when I bought them 25/30 years ago but worth a (small) fortune now. A smart move? Not really. I sold today's valuable Rolex watches too soon and ended up with a collection of empty cases. (not for sale)