blackbard

I use a guy on 1960, but I do not tell him they are reps. he wonders how I have so many expensive watches. At this point, though, I would use the suggestions from BobM and i will also come to the GTG when available and share/give away some goodies to my Houston buddies...

Hey guys,

I just got 3 reps and I'm looking for a local watchsmith who can make these extra water tight (grease and seal them) so I can go swimming in these.... I also need a MVT swapped out... Anyone know a watchsmith in Houston that is capable of that, and won't charge me my arm and leg?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

If The Zigmeister is not too busy and will take the work, send to him...

Hello

Today I looked at my IWC 3717 and saw that on my day-wheel, the day was in the middle between Saturday and Sunday. As it was 11:30am I thaught I just add 12 hours and everything would be fine...however, nothing happened, whenever it passed 12 o'clock the day wheel just wouldn't move. So I put the crown in one step to go into day and date setting mode...however, I think i forgot to put it on 5:30 before i did that. So now everything is totally messed up. The day-wheel is totally stuck. I can still get it to move but it is very hard and the crown starts to slip, meaning there is a clicking sound in the crown even though the day-wheel does not move.

So my questions are:

1) What do you think happened here?

2) Is the movement maybe broken because i tried to set the date between 10 and 2? (did i break the gears?)

3) If that is the case, can the movement be fixed by a good watchsmith, or is it hard to get the replacement parts for that?

Thank you very much!

Simon

Stunning, really! Cant wait till my friend FGD has a dial ready for me.....Any dial for that matter looking at this!

I would do unwaxed nylon. The thread size is visual at best. No way to know for sure because different thread manufacturers label and size differently. Good luck....

How do you determin the thread size?

I have been using my google fu to find the thread but not being able to hold them both in my hand to compare I will need to figure out how to order the proper size.

Also I am seeing waxed thread. It seems like that would be the way to go considering the hell I will be putting this strap through. So should I go waxed or unwaxed?

Hard to say. There are specialty threads out there that you can pick up on ebay or other specialty thread sources on the web. I havent seen the thread on that strap, so I cannot direct you well.

I don't think the stitching will be too difficult. My grandmother was a professional seamstress and I did manage to pick up a thing or two from her.

The main problem I am having is finding the proper thread. Are there any online places where I can buy thread made for things like this?

After looking at the pics, definately machine stitched...

Find the thread types, colors and sizes and go for it.

I just ordered a Maratac Elite strap for one of my tool watches.

http://www.broadarrow.net/elitesamp2.jpg

However, and it must be my luck...errr lack there of, they do not make it with blue stitching which would match the blue dial on my watch. I went ahead and ordered the one with white stitching with the thinking that maybe a blue sharpie could help me turn white to blue. THe more I am thinking about it this will be subjected to sweat, regular water, saltwater, and who knows what else. I am thinking it would only be a matter of time before the blue sharpie looses its luster.

Next idea.... Why not just pull the white thread out and replace it with blue myself.

So anyone have any clue as to how hard this could be??

More importantly anyone know where I could source some blue thread that would be good to use for a watch strap.

Thanks

Ok. I'll help you out...

Most straps you buy are machine stitched with a lock stitch. Mine of course are hand stitched using the same principle. If you are careful, you can remove the stitching by clipping the stitch carefully in several places. Work slowly, because you can easily mess up your strap. Start removing the stitching carefully a stitch at a time using something like a needle or very small screwdriver to remove the stitches. It will take some time but this is the easy part.

Once you have removed the stitching, you will have to find a thread in the same size, gloss, and strength of the top thread which is different from the bottom if they used a lock stitch. The other possibility is that they used a bicycle stitch but you will know this because as soon as you clip the stitch of a lock stitch you can pull a certain length free. With a bicycle or whatever people like to call it these days, you will not have accomplished much because with the bicycle stitch each side is a complete length of thread. So, determine what type of stitch you have and then the type of thread.

Next, go find leather needles and begin forcing the needle through the existing holes. Now, one note. If machine stitched, those holes will NOT be kind to you as they will not be large enough to accomodate most leather needles. Also, your needle must be sized correctly for the thread.....

Once you begin stitching pay attention to each loop and tighten as you go, otherwise, you will have very uneven stitching and your stitch pattern will be off....Also, if the thread is different colors on the two sides, not pulling tight enough will create a funky look on the bottom and possibly the top. Its your strap, so if you can live with it no problem.

The main thing is to take your time, use the appropriate equipment and techniques. It is possible but a lot of work. I'm sure one of us strap makers can help you including myself but it is tedious and often dangerous work....

PM if you have questions. I am happy to help...Other members will chime in.

BTW, I re-did an old strap culture strap which I assume was hand stitched and it was very difficult to do because of the age of the piece. I would recommend asking the seller to swap to save time unless you have the tools and patience to do the work. Not too difficult if you have the right stuff and can be rewarding to say you "stitched" your own strap!

Again, PM for assistance...

I just ordered a Maratac Elite strap for one of my tool watches.

http://www.broadarrow.net/elitesamp2.jpg

However, and it must be my luck...errr lack there of, they do not make it with blue stitching which would match the blue dial on my watch. I went ahead and ordered the one with white stitching with the thinking that maybe a blue sharpie could help me turn white to blue. THe more I am thinking about it this will be subjected to sweat, regular water, saltwater, and who knows what else. I am thinking it would only be a matter of time before the blue sharpie looses its luster.

Next idea.... Why not just pull the white thread out and replace it with blue myself.

So anyone have any clue as to how hard this could be??

More importantly anyone know where I could source some blue thread that would be good to use for a watch strap.

Thanks

Excellent work! There are always parts we need for this hobby. Thanks for the tutorial.

This story begins when a friend of mine sent me her watch, a Maurice Lacroix with a missed screw of the bracelet, lost a lot of time ago.

Well, it is not a beautiful watch

I appreciate it, but in US. Cousins has them, but I'll post a wanted ad here first before ordering.

Thanx again!

if i was home i would be able to help you out but unfortunatly i am away at school, if you can wait 2 weeks i can order a few and send you what you need? are you in the EU?

Bingo. Thank you FxrAndy! I believe you are correct. I forgot to mention, if I push the crown in, it seems to work better. I will order two stems. Anyone here have any to sell before I order?

The Zigmeister, sorry for missing that key piece of info!

I have had a similatr problem and it was caused when i cut a stem to short, if i pressed thwe crown in it would wind ok but in the normal winding pos it would slip a bit.

I reread your last comments. Very illuminating. I believe I have been removing the stem incorrectly. AND, on top of that, your description of having to push the stem in to tighten the screw sounds familiar. I need to look at those things.

On the click issue, the click wheel seems to slip as well, so I thought it might be related to that too...

In my experience the problem is limited to Asian copies of the 6497 and seems to be a recent problem, meaning I have not seen this type of problem until about a year ago.

When I started to note this problem, I found that the clicking sound was between the crown wheel and the keyless works winding pinion. Sometimes the click would slip on the mainspring ratchet wheel as well, but not all the time.

It's a design issue, I replaced the gears with ETA gears and it didn't fix it.

A too long stem is readily apparent, the crown lever won't close.

A too short stem is also easy to spot, if you can't tighten the set lever screw without forcing the crown towards the case, it's too short. You should be able to insert the crown with the movement in the winding position (Always remove the stem in the Winding position) and tighten the set lever screw without having to press the crown towards the case.

Thanx The Zigmeister. As far as I can tell, and you are the expert here, these are swiss movements...I did the same as you and replaced the entire keyless with another set and still have the issue. Then, when I had another watch reassembled, it started to display the same characteristic...

I'm baffled...Now, after your reply, a little worried....

In my experience the problem is limited to Asian copies of the 6497 and seems to be a recent problem, meaning I have not seen this type of problem until about a year ago.

When I started to note this problem, I found that the clicking sound was between the crown wheel and the keyless works winding pinion. Sometimes the click would slip on the mainspring ratchet wheel as well, but not all the time.

It's a design issue, I replaced the gears with ETA gears and it didn't fix it.

A too long stem is readily apparent, the crown lever won't close.

A too short stem is also easy to spot, if you can't tighten the set lever screw without forcing the crown towards the case, it's too short. You should be able to insert the crown with the movement in the winding position (Always remove the stem in the Winding position) and tighten the set lever screw without having to press the crown towards the case.

I have two watches with 6497 movements that seem to jump or miss a gear while winding. I had one watch that did it before, now after a decasing and possible stem change by my watchmaker, both seem to do it now. I completely disassembled and reassembled the keyless works on one thinking that the spring which holds the lever in place was the problem as did my watchmaker. This did not seem to have any positive affect. I now believe that the stems are to blame.

What is the effect of having too long a stem?

What is the effect of too short a stem?

I believe that too short does not allow the "winding gear" (not sure what it is called) to not be fully engaged and it is slipping causing the "jumping" and consequently a clicking sound. If you watch the movement while winding, you can see that the clicker is causing the sound and you can see the main winding gear from the rear slip back a bit.

Can the experts chime in? I am now beginning to work on my own pieces and although it is a pleasure, these little things come up. BTW, one of the stems was too long on the gear side and when installed and the crown locked down, it broke so I have learned that you trim the stem on the threaded side?

Any advice will help. I will need to order new stems I suppose if this is the issue...

Thanx Hike. Ive been chillin all day....

JUST A SHOUT OUT TO ALL RWG DADS!

HAPPY FATHER'S DAY

Good work and write up. Its a good thing you found someone local to work on the piece...

I have a modded PAM24A but little do I know about that it comes with a sandwiched crystal until Zigmeister pointed it out to me.

Well. The crystal was fine at first until recently when a rainbow effect or smudge mark started appearing at the edge of the crystal and across the cyclop. It can't be seen when you look at the crystal directly but they show up at some angles.

I did some research on my own and realised that the crystal on most PAM24 reps with A7750 actually comes with 2 piece. The upper layer crystal is the sapphire with slight rounded domed top while the lower layer is a piece of glass (mineral I guess). The upper layer sapphire is where the cyclop is installed and the lower layer will have a hole to let the cyclop sit in. The rainbow smudge mark is caused by the melting of the glue holding the sapphire and mineral glass together.

If yours is currently ok. I will suggest that you avoid leaving the watch under sunlight or rush it with hot water as it this glue react with the applied temperature.

Here's a pics to show the problem. Notice the smudge mark across the cyclop?

Below are some solution I thought that it will work.

1. Source for a slight domed crystal with flat base and add a chieftang's cyclop

Result - not possible as the there is no offering for a sapphire crystal for the required diameter and thickness.

Even if it is possible to find one, the thickness of the crystal with the cyclop will obstruct the minute hand.

2. Remove the existing sandwiched crystal, open them up and applied UV clear glue.

Result - not possible as the thickness of the glue need to be uniformly or evenly applied and not likely to be done by hands.

Even if it can be done by super steady hands, dust particles will be attraced on the glue surface.

Just as I was about to give up.

I was lucky that I manage to find a low cost PAM24 rep with 21J movt. When my watchsmith remove the crystal. Below are what we discovered

1. The crystal is not sapphire but mineral glass (expected for the price) but hey it comes as a whole piece and not sandwiched

2. Cyclop is separately installed on this version but need to realign again.

3. the mineral glass diameter is larger than the sandwiched crystal.

Mixture of good and bad news. Good news is it is very unlikely I will encounter the rainbow smudge problem anymore if the mineral glass can be used.

Bad news is, the mineral glass cannot be fitted as its diameter is larger.

Luckily, my watchsmith told me he is able to reduce the diameter of the mineral glass. It will not be possible if it is a sapphire as the material will be harder. However, there is some risk that the mineral glass will crack if it is unable to take the high temperature created from the buffing machine.

Well. I am game so I ask him to proceed.

The result?

Problem solved and bye bye to rainbow smudge for good.

My PAM24A is really modded to the max and bullet proof now.

Hope this information is useful for all PAM24 sub owners.

Uh, WOW!

I dont feel so bad about the "few" that I have now...

Ok. What about the crystals? I'll pull out my calipers to see if the size is the same. Probably not.......Thanks for the info.

I don't believe the cases are interchangeable.

Thanks. And I really want one of those GMTs....

I asked DSN before about buying a bezel on it's own and he said it's actually part of the case and are not seperable.

Not sure if that's the case but that's the response i got.

I have an old helenarou case with a busted crystal. I also have what I believe is an old DSN case. The DSN has a good AR coated crystal. I do not know how or if the cases can be disassembled so I can use the top part of the DSN case with the bottom part of the helenarou case. Can anyone chime in? Not sure if they are glued, or screwed. I saw Zigg, post parts for sale which match what I want to do so I assume its possible. All help appreciated.

I have one for sale now I was getting ready to list. I also have about 6 dials. I was going to list as a "kit" sterile watch, DSN case and at least one dial. PM if interested before I list...

anyone know a good /reputable website where i can purchase sterile/hommage 47mm / 44mm PAM style watches

looking/wanting to buy sterile 47mm pam style watch for use on a custom dial project. not looking to spend alot of $$$ (under $125.00) but would like to have a decent/good 6497 movement in it. on google DSN sells sterile PAM watches but i am not looking to spend that amount of $$$.

anyone ever buy sterile/hommage PAM watches from the guy on pmwf? think the seller is militaryman or something like that? how good and reliable are those?

thanks for in advance for information and suggestions.

Take a piece of leather or similar material to protect the lever, get a set of pliers. While holding the leather over the lever, press with the pliers gently to squeeze the lever. it will tighten rather nicely. DO NOT OVER SQUEEZE!

Hi I have just bought a graham chronofighter diver edition But the lever pusher of chrono is wobbling Is there any mod techniques for it??? Or Any easy to do ideas for modding this problem???

THX

Absolutely amazing!

............

Its a recent build. I took a chance doing it myself. Need proper case and some lume, and it will be one of my favorites. I'll take pics of it on a very unique suede I made from a Ralph Lauren Blazer....Colors make the face pop...

BB-

Always enjoy seeing Pamilies. I have to say that I too am loving that Destro. Make sure you give equal time to all Pamily members.

Yeah, but thats a nice one!

Only one so far in my family. A recently acquired 127 w/ Gunny strap.

Plenty of sources. Choose based on quality, cost, and look you are after.

I got my pam177h off DSN the other day (pics to come soon!)

i need a new strap (or two!) now since it is a bit crappy the one that comes with it

please recommend me (ideally EU based) strap dealers who are good

Thanks

Thanx. I want one of those GMTs you have!

Nice....I need to get the "Pamily" together for it's family photos. lol

I really like the tabacco destro!