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blackbard

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Posts posted by blackbard

  1. Ipod. Have 5 in the household. One connected to my car through interface, plays music in stereo, controlled with factory controls. Use iphone for myself, shuffle for my son, nano for the wife, normal 60G in the house...

    Hi all

    I'm considering the purchase of an mp3 player and it came to mind that I'd ask here since we have a diverse community with folks from all over the world with many different opinoins. First off, I originally was holding out for a iPod touch and its way cool user interface, but I still cannot justify the $300+/- price tag for a 16gb unit, so Apple is out. The Microsoft Zune would be another alternative, and its customer support seems good, but it currently lacks a touch screen interface, something I figure would be cool to have in an mp3 player. So in searching on-line, I eventually came to the Cowon D2 series, an mp3 player that has a solid following in the audiophile community for its sound quality (something I can appreciate), has a touch screen interface, is about the size of a credit card, is expandable with an Sd card slot, reportedly has about 40 hours of playback of audio files on a single battery charge and boasts of many great customer reviews on Amazon.com, Newegg.com and cnet.com. Based on this, and its $150+/- price tag, I am thinking of pulling the trigger on one, but I wonder, what do other members here use for a media player? Apple, Zune, Sony, iRiver, Cowon??? Has anyone have high praise or a horror story of any one brand? Like I said, I am probably going with the Cowon, but I wonder what other people here are using.

    Thanks B)

  2. I had the camera out so I decided to shoot the family......Bad pics, but it is 8000 degrees outside, so the sun is beaming brightly. I had not realized I gathered so many pieces. Some will go, some will stay....

    One thing I have gotten from you(Thanks!) is the ability to work on my own watches. I only touch the 6497s and they give me enough grief, but ultimately, I am enjoying the art of time even more!

    Enjoy...

    post-11711-1245018814_thumb.jpg post-11711-1245019048_thumb.jpg post-11711-1245019082_thumb.jpg

    post-11711-1245018953_thumb.jpg

    post-11711-1245018863_thumb.jpg

    post-11711-1245019001_thumb.jpg

  3. Would anyone be willing to loan me a case back from a 47mm to create the prototype for the tool? If not, does anyone have one to sell?

    Thank you for the advice and private PMs. Production starts soon and should be available late next week. I should be able to keep them in the $25-30 range. 47mm case coming soon...

    In addition to having custom buckles made, I asked my manufacturer to create a caseback tool. He delivered the prototype to me yesterday. It is made from Billet aluminum and will work on 44mm classic and current model Pams although it will not fit the Ferrari.

    I want to know before a major production run the interest level. I will post pics of the prototype tonight but it will most likely not look exactly the same as I will be making changes to it.

    So please respond with interest. I still will probably make some but it may not be a major run if the interest is not there.

    My issue with a local watchmaker who refused to take my watch in for fear of scratching the case was one of the impetus behind this. He could not open the case so I had to do it with duct tape which wasnt pretty or safe.....

    Let me know....I'll be able to supply these in the 40-80 range....Dont know for sure until I get some numbers of interested parties....

  4. Looking good my man, looking good....

    i bought a 'mini fiddy' (actually its still 44mm) from Sead @ RG. its not expensive but its a pretty nice rep.

    it came with the tan leather strap, not too bad for rep strap, really. Blackbard offered to make me a strap for my 88 with a smaller buckle than the strap culture people. today i got this really soft well oiled dark strap, thanx.

  5. post-11711-1243997593_thumb.jpg

    $25-40 range...Not as glamorous as Angus' or as multifunctional as orb...Just pure tool...

    In addition to having custom buckles made, I asked my manufacturer to create a caseback tool. He delivered the prototype to me yesterday. It is made from Billet aluminum and will work on 44mm classic and current model Pams although it will not fit the Ferrari.

    I want to know before a major production run the interest level. I will post pics of the prototype tonight but it will most likely not look exactly the same as I will be making changes to it.

    So please respond with interest. I still will probably make some but it may not be a major run if the interest is not there.

    My issue with a local watchmaker who refused to take my watch in for fear of scratching the case was one of the impetus behind this. He could not open the case so I had to do it with duct tape which wasnt pretty or safe.....

    Let me know....I'll be able to supply these in the 40-80 range....Dont know for sure until I get some numbers of interested parties....

  6. Yes. Havent been able to find. In development so I'll see if I get them cheap. Mine was free...

    i'm assuming you're talking about something like this:

    IMG_3764.jpg

    the picture is from angus -- he had access to these at some point in time (you can see more pics in his photobucket here). probably worth emailing him to see if they are still available and if so, at what price ;)

    deltatahoe

  7. Good suggestions. I already ran into the strap/crown issue on the prototype. It is being corrected now...

    I'll post some pics later...

    Good project.

    You're probably already doing this, but you should cut out the corners of the octagon, so that the wrench only makes contact with the flat areas.

    ...Oh, and make sure that the walls are really thin, so that you don't have to remove your strap to use the tool. ;)

  8. Nice Idea. I can do that. Do you have dimensions you could PM me? I will be calling the manufacturer today and this can be on of the changes. Might make it uncomfortable to use but efficient nontheless.

    I might be interested also, but again depends on price.

    Maybe these are made from machined aluminium tube? Not sure of the best manufacturing process.

    From bar also, but lots of waste.

    What would be really good would be those that do 44mm one side and 47mm the other.......

  9. Thank you for the advice and private PMs. Production starts soon and should be available late next week. I should be able to keep them in the $25-30 range. 47mm case coming soon...

    In addition to having custom buckles made, I asked my manufacturer to create a caseback tool. He delivered the prototype to me yesterday. It is made from Billet aluminum and will work on 44mm classic and current model Pams although it will not fit the Ferrari.

    I want to know before a major production run the interest level. I will post pics of the prototype tonight but it will most likely not look exactly the same as I will be making changes to it.

    So please respond with interest. I still will probably make some but it may not be a major run if the interest is not there.

    My issue with a local watchmaker who refused to take my watch in for fear of scratching the case was one of the impetus behind this. He could not open the case so I had to do it with duct tape which wasnt pretty or safe.....

    Let me know....I'll be able to supply these in the 40-80 range....Dont know for sure until I get some numbers of interested parties....

  10. Nice. In addition to patience, I will add, Patience again, tough fingers, budget for leather when you screw up your piece because of a mispunch..., understanding wife for the time it takes, more tools, band-aids and some other nice chemicals for finish work. But good basic tutorial...

    In the disclaimer to this topic, I will say that it is not so hard to make a strap on your own. But as You will see further in this post, this takes time, requires patience, patience and once again patience. I advice You to take your time, never rush with any parts of the process because it will only cause inaccuracy in Your project.

    My english may not be accurate but I hope that everything will be clear for You all :rolleyes:

    Also remember that this is a complete amateur tutorial as I am no proffesional strap maker.

    I advice You to get straps from dealers, those straps are better quality and for sure will last longer.

    You can either use the tools simillar to mine, or buy proffesional tools for example HERE. If I had the money I would buy those for sure :p

    I would also like to thank to Aaron HKTan who gave me some advices and pointed some things I was so curious about.

    Anyway, lets begin :p

    A - Tools

    66470-33682.jpg

    Here is the picture of the tools I use to make straps. I think I dont have to tell you what a particular tool is, as You can clearly see it above :) But specific, the bottles You see one the left top corner are special leather

    paints (aprox 2euro cost each), they are used to paint the edges of the straps, so the leather would look better, when dry, they are flexible and hard to go off. The big glue is a transparent poliuteranic glue used to shoes, leathers etc. This is the main one, the smaller, Super Glue helps in the stitching part :)

    B - Leather

    66470-33683.jpg

    I dont think that there is any rule in leather choosing. So we pick one :p

    66470-33684.jpg

    A leather belt I bought for small money and tools needed to this B part.

    66470-33685.jpg

    We slice the leather to the size we like. I sliced a bigger piece. When it comes to the dimensions, please reffer to any strap You own. For my 7.1 inch wrist I make straps 110/70 in lenght, So as You see, I need to slice two pieces of 230mm and 150mm. I add 10mm for the loss due to the bend process. We can always cut the leather after glueing.

    66470-33686.jpg

    Now, using the ruller and a spike I try to mark the leather with two straight line in distance of 24mm or a little more, as the leather can shrink a bit after cutting it.

    66470-33687.jpg

    This is the way I slice the leather. I use heavy steel blocks with straight edges, so theres no way Im gonna slice a no straight piece :)

    66470-33688.jpg

    66470-33689.jpg

    This is the part where You cut the leather if its too long for your size. You simply bend over the leather aprox 15mm from the middle and try to fit as it is showed on the picture. If you cut the right size, You would not have to cut the spare part of the leather. If You are completly sure that the dimensions are proper, but really really sure, as there is no way turning back from this moment :) we can proceed further.

    66470-33690.jpg

    We make markings on the inside part of the strap so we are able to put the glue well. I used the spike again, but you can use pen or something completly different I have no idea about :) These lines arent nessesary, but they help alot :)

    66470-33691.jpg

    Then we put the glue. I put the glue in straight line, and then, with a help of a simple match I spread the glue on the whole surfance.

    66470-33692.jpg

    66470-33693.jpg

    And this is the part the leather must glue strong. I use two steel blocks squized as You can see on the picture. Theres plenty of options in this part, You can even put number of heavy books on the strap :)

    66470-33694.jpg

    66470-33695.jpg

    66470-33696.jpg

    Next You have to make the ..... (I cant find a word for it, as Im no english native speaker also :)) thing that holds the longer part of the strap. The way to do it is almost the same as above. You can get the idea from the pics.

    66470-33697.jpg

    66470-33698.jpg

    You can either glue it, or make a simple loop stitch. About stitching - further in the post :) And then fit IT in the right place, and glue the rest of the leather as shown on the picture.

    66470-33699.jpg

    66470-33700.jpg

    You end with a complete stitchless and holeless strap :)

    Now its time to prepare the holes for the stitching part.

    66470-33701.jpg

    66470-33702.jpg

    66470-33703.jpg

    First put your watch lug tube in the strap (or something alse of similar shape), this will help You, to get the stitching line distance from the top of the strap most accurate. Remember to get this line straight and at exact distances from both edges. Believe me, every 1mm of difference will make Your eyes bleed :)

    With help of spike, razor, knife or anything else, try to make straight lines on the part of the strap You would like to have the stitching, and its important to choose the visable, front side of the strap.

    Now the hard part, amateur hole punching :p Tools required are spike, hammer, ruller and loads of patience.

    66470-33704.jpg

    This is the way I do it, but I quess there is many other ways. So through the lines You have made before, You make holes exact same distance from each other. I prefer 4mm, but I quess its Your choice what distance to choose. Anyway, put a ruller next to the line, put a spike on the place You would like to have a hole, and strike it with hammer.

    66470-33705.jpg

    Remember to strinke from the frontal side of the strap, as the spike can go a little away from the point You put the spike on the front side and i result, after making number of holes, You can get not nessesary a straight line of holes on the back of the strap. Thats why :)

    66470-33706.jpg

    Then simply punch another and another hole, till Your strap is ready for the stitching!!

    C - Stitching

    66470-33707.jpg

    Choose the thread of size, color and facture You like and arm yourself in even more patience. This is, imo, the taughest part of the whole process.

    I use the simple loop stitching, just follow the pics, and everything will be clear :)

    66470-33708.jpg

    66470-33709.jpg

    66470-33710.jpg

    66470-33711.jpg

    66470-33712.jpg

    66470-33713.jpg

    66470-33714.jpg

    Wuoala! The stitching is ready, now cut the thread, finish it with a little help of Super Glue, You can use sandpaper on the dried glue to not harm your hand. I use the same razor knife I used to leather cutting and it works fine with me.

    66470-33715.jpg

    You get the strap almost ready to go!! All You have to do is to cut the space for the buckle.

    66470-33716.jpg

    Then put the buckle and one part of the strap is ready to use :)

    The second part of the strap is easier to do, because You simply bend it over, glue it, punch the holes, stitch it, and its ready. For the rounded end of the strap You can use a pro tools, or cut it, I do it that way, with the same razor knive You used before. When the second part is finished You have Your brand new self made custom strap :)

    66470-33717.jpg

    UPDATE 12.06.2006

    So You asked about the sizing holes... This is the best method imo but You may use another. Excuse me for using a done already strap, but Im too lazy to do another one now :p

    66470-33718.jpg

    Just put the buckle on the strap, put the watch on Your wrist, bend back the buckle pin and meshure you wrist with it (just tighten it until youre satisfied) then take a spike, or some pen, whatever, just to make the mark where You have to put the first and the most important sizing hole. Then just use punchers on this one mark, and mark the other places to put the rest of the sizing holes if You want them.

    66470-33719.jpg

    66470-33720.jpg

    These are the punchers I use. For my pictured here buckle, that has GPF style buckle pin I use round puncher. For the tang buckle I used to use the second one, pictured on the right that is oval. Did I paid big money for it as it is a very rare tool to get? No :) I just bought another round one and squized it in a vise until I got the right shape of the puncher. It works perfectly and it costed very little money compared to the ones You can buy online.

    And thats mostly it about making sizing holes :)

    In the end...

    Id love to read Your comment on this and see pics of somebodys self made straps :) If any questions, please feel free to PM me or post here. I will try to help.

    Best regards,

    Kuba

  11. I make straps and have my customers who wear Pams asking for these ALL the time. I am having some manufactured now...

    If you dont want it, I'll take it and give you one a little thinner and some cash...

    i just bought a strap from these guys for my 088. its very nice- burgandy, thick with a beautiful case.

    but the buckle is like a belt buckle- bigger than the watch head. i had to take it off. its just too much.

    do you PAM guys like these?

  12. Still working. I have 3 different reps (2 of which will go on sale) 4 different dials...I make the straps so there was little cost there...I bought my first from a friend and it turns out it may be a DSN....I then tried to get a cannon mod by purchasing the parts myself and taking to a local maker....I forgot one of the parts...so the watchmaker could not complete the task. Then I sent a request to the master here(The Zigmeister) and the cost of that mod plus lume made me think twice because I would have been close to your budget. So now, I just purchased one with lume and pin and will modify the crown guard myself. The issue with this piece is that the movement needs work but since I have two "donors" I thought what the heck. The cost will go way higher than $500 unless you find someone here with most mods you want selling for the budgeted amount...Which does seem possible from my limited experience.

    Hi guys,

    I just need to hear how you guys built your PAM reps especially the PAM 111's.

    I want to start building mine very soon (PAM 111h), and need all the help and advice I can get. I have a budget of around $500 (not including the strap).

    So any build stories you guys have, please share them with me, including the pictures as we all no words do this hobby no justice at all, lol.

    Regards

    Jay.

  13. True. More difficult to make and look proper. I have also made/worn 27/27 and 26/26 but I agree, the tapered looks better. Especially in Black Gator...

    OEM is 27/22mm.

    Very few strap makers do this correct size. Most do 26/22mm.

    26/22 is OK but leaves a very small gap between strap edge and the curve of the lug wire.

    HK Tan, Stone Creek and a few others will do made to measure straps (croc, gator, calf, other) to OEM dimensions.

    Most others have 26/22mm product.

    I'm picky, and prefer the 27/22 look....

  14. Thanx for the excellent explanation.

    Everything you said makes sense. Unfortunately, the previous owner screwed up the actual pusher part so I need the entire subassembly I believe. I could not get the sliding part to slide any more and snapped the screw off trying to fix...

    Know where to get replacements?

    The end of the pusher inside the case is in fact a screw head, so you can strip the pusher assembly by undoing that from inside.

    The reason for the "stuck pusher" problem that these have is the pusher shaft is left with burrs on the end during manufacture, this prevents the pusher head from screwing down fully. The extra length then allows the outside part of the pusher to come off the splines it slides on and sit over them. If the whole outside pusher (inner and outer lockring) can continually rotate then you have this problem.

    If the burrs are removed and sometimes the shaft shortened slightly the outer pusher stays on the splines. You also need to loctite the thread to prevent it coming apart and parts getting lost.

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