gplracer

Well Rex or someone that does this type of stuff. I do not know anyone in town that works on reps.

I have thought about this all day. First, I think the stem is too long. Second the tabs are from the bkmariner case and they just do not work in the Euromariner case. The lip is different. At this point it might be best to send it to Rex and let him put in proper tabs and a shorter stem. Do you think my assessment is correct? The tabs are totally straight with no bend at all.

I have been thinking about this. (I am new to this) I used the old brackets from the noob case and the old stem. Is it possible that the brackets are too short and the stem is too long? I have included a pic with the stem pulled out. If so should a watchmaker carry those brackets? What about the stem? Should I take it out again and cut it shorter on the thread side? If so what is the best way to cut it?

Ok i got the clamps in. I was putting them in under a lower lip. The issue now is that there is play in the case (movement is not snug) and the crown will not go in far enough to screw in. The crown does appear to work when pulled out to set the time and date. See the foot (anchor) that is by the large gear? I cannot tighten that screw enough to make it tight. I pulled the stem out for now because I do not want that foot to interfere with the gear. I can pul the crown and watch the movement move. There must be something that I am not doing correctly.

I have a bkmariner and a new euomariner case. For some reason the the clamps tha hold the movement down will not sit flat. This will not work because the rotor will hit them. Is it possible that the spacer is too thick? Solutions? Thanks for your time.

This is going to make me nervous.

Thanks Alligoat. I had trouble finding a post about this as well.

I am changing the case on my eta powered bkmariner. I know the crown/stem has to come out. Also there are some retaining screws. Does the rotor have to be removed or just the screws? Suggestions or tips? Thanks very much for your time.

Are they any tutorials on how to remove and eta movement? I know there is a button that is pushed in to allow the crown stem to come out. What about the other screws? Is it real easy? It would be nice if I had some pictures to be on the safe side.

The best result is with GEN crystal.

About lugholes , it depend on preferences and which replica version you like.

please...........don get lugholes with rehault engraving!

Rosnik, That would be yuck! (inaccurate as well)

I see some people replacing their stock WM9/Euromariner crystal with a clark crystal. Does it really look that much better or is there another reason? Also, what about lug holes? Preference only?

How often do you guys clean your metal band? I find I need to remove it from the watch every month or so and put it in the jewelry cleaner. If not when I am outside sweating the dirt from the band comes out and get on my shirt and leaves marks.

What is the difference between the clarks crystal and the one that came on the watch?

Looks nice kelster. Good work.

No etch, 16800 getting closer now.

Would anyone know if this crystal & gasket would also fit the TWB case?

WM is Watchmaster. He used to be on Replica Collector from time to time, before it shut down. Pricing would be comparable to an MBW/MBK.

Is watchmaster still around selling things?

WM does not have "date on the dial"...

What is "WM"? Do you have a link?

Last nite a gen 1675 dial from shear-time on the bay sold for $175 plus or minus. Then you'd have to find a case to fit it in.

The later transitional GMT Master (is it 16710?) would be another option- by then I believe it said Date on the dial, but the case had a sapphire crystal, old style matte dial and markers. 3055 movement.They're becoming the next vintage watches like the 16800 and the SD 16660. Take a vintage dial and put it in the newer case, but still w/ lugholes. Just thinking out loud.

$175 for a gen dial is not too bad. I would have thought 1675 dials would normally sell for a lot more. That gives me hope. Too bad some of the ones from silix will not take a gen dial.

I don't think we've seen one yet. You could get a gen dial, but then typically it's too small for the rep case.

Thanks Alligoat. I guess that kind of puts a damper on rep 1675 watches when they have the word "date" on the dial....

Does anyone sell a 1675 rep without the word "date" on it? Thanks!!!

Frank the watch looks great! Sorry to hear about the crystal. Maybe someone can post an oem or after market gasket so you can compare the sizes. Congrats on what you have so far!

How does that watch compare to this one: Link

Thanks too much! Does anyone have some good pics of a gen to compare this rep to? This is very interesting.

My first try ever.... I would say both are reps because of the low crown position.

How is it that the crown sits up so high? I thought this was a problem when using an ETA movement. The crown is usually too low. It would seem the crown is in about the right place. What other accuracy issues would there be with a case/watch of this type. I am looking for an older style rep and this looks like a good one.

All of this makes me want an old sub or gmt project.....

What about the crown position on a MBW? Is it off just like that of a modern sub? Sorry missed the comment above.

For vintage Subs there is only one way that costs less than a couple thousand dollars or so...