gplracer

Triplok screw down. That's what made it an unpopular model when released, since it's not an auto movement.

Thannks Nanuq. So I would need a triplok? What about the size? Is it a 6mm? Thanks!

What size and type of crown is appropriate for a 6263?

Before I spend money on a ten crystal are there any aftermarket ones that are just as good?

My new A7750 powered (rotor removed and low profile case back) DW 6263

I started another thread because this one is different. Besides can we really have too many 6263 threads? Well maybe .....

I am happy with what I have but I do have some observations and some questions.

Observations -

1. Winding is not real smooth. I will have to have the auto winding mechanism removed. I heard from people here on the forum that it will help.

2. Compared to a sub the watch is tiny!

3. I am pretty pleased with the "O" in "Rolex" I know some are more round in shape.

4. Some of the markers could be aligned better.

5. The watch is not real clean on the hands. I guess a watchmaker could fix this.

6. Main second hand could be better aligned at the top.

7. Bezel is not real tight. dieselpower suggested that the crystal is too thin. I could get a gen. Is there an after market crystal that is just as good?

8. The band is not real good. Would a folded link 7835 weigh more?

Questions

1. I am told that a good cleaning would help. The prices I have been quoted are $195 and $150 plus any needed parts. Does this sound right and do you think it is needed? If you can suggest someone that has a good track record please pm me.

2. The pushers screw in tightly. I know this is an issue on some. They will not push in when screwed in tightly. Is this how they are supposed to work?

Any other suggestions or comments are welcome whether they be positive or not. Thanks!

The bezel is supposed to be a press fit, and should not turn. You can pry it off to clean the residue, then press it back on again.

Nanuq thanks for the reply. I have both the black and the stainless bezels. I can push each one on fine. The fit seems fine but I would have thought it would be tighter. The bezels can be pried off with my fingernails. Is this a common issue?

I just got my DW 6263. Everything seems to work fine and it looks real good. I am going to upload some pics later tonight. I saw under the bezel where there was some residue of some type. I think it might be glue. The bezel does not spin but can be moved up and down a little. I would assume it should fit tighter. Anyone ever come across this issue? Suggestions?

Also, The watch seems to keep good time but winding it is hard. I know Freddy said the automatic winding mechanism should be removed. Does anyone have a technique for winding this beast? It almost sounds like it is being wound while the crown is being screwed in. While it is out further but not in the time setting mode it does now feel like it is being wound at all. :-)

How does the trusty 5513 compare?

I believe the MBW will take gen parts. Nothing else will. That is why you want aMBW

How does one tell if a 7835 band is gen or not. What are some things to look for? Also, how much of a difference is there between a gen and rep band?

Another difficult task may be finding a V23 at a reasonable price.

Someone else please feel free to chime in. I have not done this only read about it

You will need to grind the inside of the case to customize it to accept the movement. This might be a little amount of work or a lot of work. If you are going to put that expensive of a movement in it you probably will want aftermarket pushers and a crown and tube. You can get these from Ofrei. The thread pitch is not the same so the case will have to be tapped. Gen pushers fit fine but they are major money. Of course the usual mods such as gen band,ends and crystal would look nice too. Freddy will tell you this is not for the faint of heart. It is a time consuming process.

I would suggest a DW case.

PM sent.

Gadget Man is correct. The DW cases are the best. They take gen parts and have asymmetrical pushers.

Truly impressive. Every time I see something like this it makes me want a vintage MBW as well. Your time and effort has paid off with an outstanding timepiece. Thanks for sharing!

What about winding? How much does one wind a watch of this type? I mean when you wind it how do you know what is enough and what is too much?

Thanks Freddy. I really appreciate your time with this detailed post. Is this something that most any decent watchmaker can do?

I am 100% positive they made oyster PN dial in 626X cases (I bought one of these beauties in 1997 for $7000 believe it or not) here is a pic:

Beautiful watch Hugonw

Rob or Freddy,

Can I have some winding info? What is the proper way to wind a 7750 once the rotor is off? How much winding and how often (reserve). Also didn't you guys say there are some other parts that need to come out to keep the movement reliable if it is going to be wound? Thanks!!!

Anyone know?

Wow Pete that really looks good. What did you have to do to get the dial to fit in there?

Rob or Freddy,

Can I have some winding info? What is the proper way to wind a 7750 once the rotor is off? How much winding and how often (reserve). Also didn't you guys say there are some other parts that need to come out to keep the movement reliable if it is going to be wound? Thanks!!!

The rehaut varies slightly in each of the DW Daytona cases I have worked on (though always within a reasonable range for a vintage Daytona) & it, like the dimensional aspects of the rest of the case, does not appear to be movement specific. That is, the differences are most likely due more to sample-to-sample manufacturing variations than to any designed-in specifications. In most cases, the middle case will accept either movement. The casebacks for the Valjoux is slightly shallower (similar to the gen), but it can be used with a rotorless 7750 as well since the middle case is otherwise the same. On the other hand, I had to do a great deal of grinding/reshaping to 1 of my V72 cases before the V72 would fit properly into it & that included the rehaut area. So alot of this comes down to luck of the draw (how well your particular case was machined at the factory) & how much time/effort you or your watchmaker are prepared to put in to get the job done (if required).

Whoops! Not enough alcohol while reading this post.......... What have I done?

Where is Freddy?

Hi Jasper!

According to the bible (Rolex Daytona: A Legend Is Born) "Early models ref. 6263-6265 have Oyster Twinlock 700 winding crown...in the early 1970s Rolex [supplies] Oyster Triplock 701. In the second half of the 1970s...Triplock 702." My understanding is that PN dials for 6263 and 6265 (the screw-down pusher models) DO NOT say Daytona - only the PN dial meant for 6262 and 6264 (pusher buttons) models have the Daytona indicia, and the correct crown for those Daytonas is the Twinlock 600...it's confusing, and if someone knows better than me, please chime in!

I am going to take the chicken way out....... DW with 7750. BTW can you later put a V72 in a DW cased that housed a 7750? Is the rehault the same on the 7750 as the v72?

Everyone has a sub not everyone has a 6263..................

May I ask which pushers these are? Are they on the ofrei website? Do they fit in the DW case without too much trouble?

That dial looks good/great. The ones DW has on his website don't look that good. Maybe it's because of the size of the photograph...

I can't believe I'm thinking about this!

Please stop posting these photographs!

Well....anyone have some new daytona 6263 pics or something? How does one remove and replace the bezel on a DW? Sorry for my 6263 DW thread withdrawl.

My Val. 72 Daytona is on its way back from being assembled. It will be my last project for a while. Personally, the economy is killing me.

Any suggestions on finding a Val. 72 at a bargain in the local market? I thought maybe someone would get rid of this type of watch and not pay much attention to it since it is old.