gplracer

I wish I had the money to spend on this: Valjoux 726 on the Bay

$271 in 1971

Very interesting.... What about the later ones in the 1980's?

What were the original prices of the Rolex 6263? I was just curious. I know the submariner in SS was around $2500 in the mid to late 80's.

What kind of movement does this Tudor use? Is it a Valjoux 2 register movement? Tudor watch on the bay

Oh I dunno, I like 'em well enough. I have worn and do wear worse. An 'ole watch like an 'ole shep who don't know what a mutt he is. It'll serve just as well as another if it keeps time and the sheep in line.

Like others have said; a crown guard trim, a few Watchmaterial.com inserts, a polish and a rebrush. Then go source the next generation. I think the best collections are those that started in the infancy of the 'replica movement' and culminate from years of progress in the genre. I still love my clunky 60 click CN Sub with Miyota movement from '04, meh 99usd. Still wish I had my quartz "Polex" Sub from Pattaya in '87. Oh! What a 'ho she was.

Noob or BKmariner or BK WM9 v2 The rehault is well I do not know it is like it tappers or something. Also those are the biggest lines on the face that I have ever seen. I would not put a lot of money into these.

The problem is that the reverser wheels, which transmit the rotor's oscillations to the movement & spin at relatively high velocities, will get worn out from frequent manual winding. Removing the rotor does not help here if you leave the reverser wheels in place. On my vintage A7750 Daytonas, in addition to the rotor, I remove all of the components (including the reversers) connected to & contained in the auto-wind module bridge. This effectively turns the movement into a pseudo-manual-wind & eliminates the wear issues related to the auto-wind components.

THAT is what I needed to know. Thanks Freddy

If the movement is properly serviced (unless you have a watchmaker service it, your rep comes with an unserviced movement), I see nothing wrong with manually winding a stopped watch to get it started. However, I would not recommend manually winding an auto-wind movement on a regular basis as this can prematurely wear the auto-wind components. The Zigmeister has articles on this that you can find via the Search.

I understand that. I read the article by The Zigmeister and looked at the pictures. BTW great job The Zigmeister! I just wondered because a 7750 is an automatic wind movement. Are you saying that something needs to be done to the 7750 besides removing the rotor and servicing it? Or are you saying that even with the rotor removed the 7750 is not a good watch to manually wind. I have a feeling this question shows my lack of knowledge of how an automatic watch works........

Yes, slightly, depending on which movement - Vajloux 23/72 or A7750.

No.

No (unserviced) rep should ever be considered to be trouble-free. However, the problems that plague the secs @ 6 7750s used in modern Daytona reps are inherent to the additional secs @ 6 componentry, which are not used for the secs @ 9 7750s that are used in vintage Daytona reps. Properly serviced, the standard A7750 (secs @ 9) has a very good track record as a generally reliable movement.

Your choices for DW Daytonas are the Valjoux 23 (2 working subdials), Valjoux 72 (3 working subdials, same as the gen 62xx Daytonas) or asymmetrically pushered A7750 (3 working subdials). You need to use the Search to more homework, but I will give you this (ignore the prices quoted in that thread & contact DW (not me) for details).

Thanks Freddy, As usual you on the "Daytona Man" Is there any concern about manual winding a 7750? I thought that was a no no.

Great job Window God. I think these look great.

That's wrong the cases are similar the 7750 Case

is more opened inside to carry the 7750 Movement

also the caseback is higher.

Both Cases accept Gen Tropic, Tube and Crown and

aftermarket Pushers.

It was my understanding that the 7750 accepts a gen movement if you get the lower profile case back.This caseback can be used on this case with the 7750 if the rotor is removed.

I think I know the answer but I have never seen a 6263 in person. (I hope to real soon) The newer submariner has a sapphire crystal and the 6263 has an acrylic crystal. What is your favorite and why? Any one able to do side by side picks?

you should be able to use the rep dial. AFAIR Venus&Valjoux23 have the same subdial spacing

I have some questions too. After a lot of reading I have not gotten an answer

1. Does the subdial spacing differ on the the different models that DW offers?

2. I saw someone say something about the rehault depth. Is it different?

3. I know a lot of the newer daytona models are said to be somewhat unreliable with the 7750 movement. Due to either extra teeth on the gears (I think I read that) Is this true with this vintage model as well?

4. I could be wrong but I doubt I would ever spend the money on a V22 movement due to the price. If this is the case which model would you recommend?

Thanks for your time in answering these above questions.

Check this:

http://colemanitis.com/

Anyone 2009 yet?

Q.

Cool! Thanks

The Zigmeister are you available to do this? I need the crown guards shaped as well and something else done. Can you pm or send me an email?

Super long turn times may be standard for some, but not for me.

Lume can be sent in anytime, and my turn time for lume only work is 2 weeks, actually nothing sits in my shop for months...no matter what needs to be done.

RG

Thanks for posting this. I just read a similar thread you did where you replaced the movement but no video. I like the drink wine in between moments. This is a valuable tool to have on the forum. How about posting some information about the tools you have. Many of us do not have any of the needed tools. It would be nice to know what to get and where to get them.

Thanks guys

@Admin

I cannot EDIT my OWN thread!

Can admin please edit the thread for me so that the videos show up in the original first post.

Also is admin aware that we cannot embed other videos, only youtube?

Anyone else do super lume? I would love to have mine done as well but i do not want to wait that long. How long does super lume glow?

The insert is a JO insert with a WM pearl which was relumed with SL luminova.

The retaining ring was shaved down. the bezel was polished to give a higher "sheen"

New Clarks crystal and correct gasket.

Crown Guards shaved.

Rehut lettering removed

Im sending it to BK who lives a little north of me for some additional "touchups"

Turn around time is 2-3 months.

I found this: Link This guy did a franken.

Just wondering if anyone has built a Ladies Franken-just? Using gen case, dial, etc with eta movemement? Is it an easy task with stem alignement, clearance for the date disc, etc?

I guessing the 2671 calibre is the eta movement to use.

thanks!

It only took 180 days for someone to reply. I would like to build one of these for my wife. Does anyone make an adapter for the eta movement? Would an eta movement fit? Thanks!!!

I do not know about watches but white gold in jewelry usually has a yellowish cast to it as well. Basically white gold has a high nickel content to make it look white in color. Most white gold jewelry is plated with rhodium. This makes it look even whiter. I do not know if white Rolex watches are plated with rhodium or not. Freddy are those your watches?

Yes we discussed this in the past also for

the older MBW's

Whoops! Sorry about that. I am a little slow....

I was comparing my noob with my Euromariner (almost same as WM9) and I noticed that there is more of a ledge where the crystal meets the case at the top of the rehault. This look is apparent in gens as well but not on the noob. I feel it is another tell tale difference between a cheaper sub rep and a more accurate sub rep. Anyone else noticed this?

Hi SDDS interestees,

As we all know, the "Best" Deepsea with asia 2813-2 costs about USD 130 whilst the swiss 2836 sells for USD 200 more. Which suggests getting the cheapest version and sticking a swiss 2836 into it would be economically sound unless the transplant is tedious (i.e. costly).

I happen to have a Swiss 2836 (unmodified, non-gmt) lying around with nowhere to go. Hence the Q: How easy is it, time and parts wise, for a watchsmith to simply swap movements?

Thanks for your valuable input on this, kind regards

MG

Edit: Some spelling errors:)

It should be easy for a watchmaker to do if you have the parts.... You will need ETA hands and possibly an ETA dial if the feet on your dial are not in the same place. Someone else here is bound to know about the dial.

The more I see what our Subs have become the more I like the Subs (gen or reps).

I think I am going to build another one with you Tribal

If you don't mind of course

Maybe I'll try to achieve this in 2009 and go for a super super franken.

Congrats again man.

Keep it untill we meet please

It would appear the only way to get more gen like would be to get case with the correct crown height (Vietnamese maybe) and then put a gen movement or a low profile eta if possible along with gen crystal, crown, insert, dial and hands. I would be happy to have a gen insert, and super lumed dial and hands on my Euromariner.

If this tt euromariner has the same construction as the stainless euromariner it would be a good candidate to switch out some of the parts for aftermarket solid 14k or 18k parts later if needed.

so, are those two other holes the dial feet popping through the movement ring?

does this mean one could use a genuine dial without cutting the feet off?!?!

PP

Very interesting observation. I await the answer.