chefcook

repressing the crystal is not too difficult with the right tools. Small hand presses are cheap (bought mine for about $40). I'd try this first... Once I repressed the crystal of a noobmariner as it suffered the same leak - and it kept dry inside after that even after swimming in the pool or having a shower with the watch.

http://www.rltwatches.co.uk/acatalog/Military1.html there you'll find a black synthetic NATO strap in 24mm....

I just wanted to start a thread on this topic and came across this one... yesterday I received a 111h from precious time, which IMHO is very well made for the money and is a good starting point for a quite good rep, but the AR is useless. I doubt, that it is a anti reflective coating, looks more like a blueish SUPER reflective coating. The case back without any AR looks so much nicer that I decided to remove the AR completely and get a single AR aftermarket.

That's what I did. I assume that I did not have any problems with customs was caused by this. BTW the package was opened at the customs and was marked as "watch dial, set of watch hands and leather watch strap" on the customs sticker...

Yep, you are right, for $30 it's pretty good. But why not give $31 for a noob dial with better lume? Saved money on the wrong end imho... The noob could be much better without costing more than 10% more than it is today!

Until now I have seen the rounded S only on watches up to 2007 and on LVs...

I just ordered some parts from him and everything went perfect. He replies fast, parts were perfect and imho the prices are very fair.

Heyho, for a current project (frankenised MBW 16610) I aquired a gen dial. As I have a noobmariner too I decided to show the differences between the noob and the gen dial. From a distance of two or three inches it's hard to spot a difference on a photo. In real life the gen appears somehow more elegant, better made. Taking a closer look some flaws can be spotted easily. Look at the minute markers and the "swiss made" on the gen dial: and on the noob dial: The noob has little serifs on the minute markers next to an hour marker and they are too long. The minute markers are to bold. The font of the swiss made is too fat and with less spacing than on the gen. And it is not centered correctly!!!! The print on the gen is a lot more clear. The crown and the OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE. Again the gen is first: and the noob: and the noob: First thing to notice is the S on Submariner: The real deal is flat, the noob is curved. The A on the gen is pointier than on the noob. The font size is quite good. Probably most obvious is the f on ft: On the noob it is far to large, nearly touching the A in Submariner. The font for the "1000 ft = 300m" is completely wrong. There should not be serifs on the 1 and the m should be more italic. The 0 should be rounder, not that oval. The SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED is pretty much spot on. The white gold kerbs on the hour markers are too thick on the noob and it seems that not enough lume is applied on the noob, as the lume forms a little tub in the white gold kerbs. The lume: The lume on the noob is really good, though the gen is a lot better and lasts amazingly long. Most impressive is how little light is enough to charge the gen lume. A few minutes in the sun are enough to have light in the darkest room where the noob needs exposure to a strong halogen bulb to reach a similar level of glow. Here a picture after ca 3 minutes in a dark room (exposure time ca 10 seconds). It is obvious which is the gen. In my humble oppinion the noob dial is ridiculously overrated as is the noobmariner. It is NOT spot on and it is not a good fake. Nearly everything on the noob dial is wrong, just as nearly everything on the noobmariner is wrong. The noobmariner does not have flaws, it IS a flaw. After buying a noobmariner I would not buy any watch from the noobfactory in fear of receiving similar crap. I hope you are now aware of the fact, that you do not have the ultimate fake dial and that anyone looking at it with open eyes can identify it as a rep. Therefore I would not recommend swapping a MBW or whatever dial for a noob dial, as it is just not as good as most people think.

The point is: There should be tools for knurl according to DIN. The manucature should understand, that the knurl in the british/australian drawing exactly is a DIN knurl and therefore use DIN tools to reduce time and money needed for the production. An individual knurl requires individual tools causing "individual" prices...

I am excited too T: have you used my handdrawn design including the DIN standards? One of V's crown guards and a set of correct cannon pinions are here allready. A superlumed DSN dial with matching hands should arrive these days and I have a 111h from precious time on its way. Quite looking forward to built my new PAM

The gen is out of production since 2007 and had the reference WJF2110.BA0594. The rep is IMHO quite good! The gen usually sells for ca. $2100-2200 in europe...

I translated the drawing to German standards. Everything has to be standardised in Germany, so are the teeth on things like watch crowns. The dimensions in david's design needed to be altered by just a few hundreth millimeters to meet a standard knurl - I've changed it as it will save quite a lot of money. I am sure that gen panerais use the same standard knurl as swiss standards are not that different from ours.

It looks stunning! Where have you bought it?

Emailed with him some days ago, ordered parts and received tracking no. the next day.

First of all I want to say sorry for my disappearance from this topic. I was involved in a quite serious accident and not able to write or read in this forum due to my injuries and my time in hospital. But it's getting better now, I am back home and I can walk again Fish sent me some drawings that I'll check and change for european standards this evening. I'll send them back to Fish with my modifications. I still would be happy seeing two Unitas and one Valjoux crown reserved for me!

ich wohn auch in Deutschland, wenn auch geb

Until the major mistake on the Milgauss reps is not fixed they are just useless: The Milgauss does NOT use a Datejust case!!! The Milgauss is 40mm!!!!

That's exactly what I thought. IMHO the crowns we're going to do should be an opportunity for those wanting perfect reps and these people would use a standard rep case. Fish: Miss doch mal bitte den Abstand zwischen Kronenb

Jau supi Ist 3D

Interessantes Bild einer original Krone wegen der Fase an der Verzahnung:

Fish: Deine Ma

If it expedites the process I can offer to make the drawings (german Diplom Ingenieur and british B.Sc. in mechanical engineering). 3D CAD is possible but 2D low tech would be more fun. EDIT: ... or if it saves money ...

In German: Damit die Krone weiter vom Geh

I'd take two Unitas and one Valjoux crown!