JoeyB

Looks great! For the pearl I've used the drop of 5 minute epoxy with a touch of lume underneath. The natural color is amber. It really turns out nice.

For at least 12 hours prior to installation, more depending on the individual, do not, under any circumstances, consume beer and chilli.

I talked to Gary Clark today, and he said he does not have the Tropic 38, but if he could get a sample he could make them. If anyone has one and wants to help out, get in touch.

That T38 surely gives the watch a different look.

Thank you! Always improving, the current dial decal is the best yet. That's why the updates to the 1675 and 6204 are coming. I'm well past satisfying, and really into being cheap!

Yep, the 'exclamation point' dial is one of mine, and next in line after my 6204 to be updated. I do love the gilt chapter ring dials.

The 1675 from it's beginning in 1959 to 1964 had the pointed crown guards and the gilt dial. The small GMT hand was used longer. http://www.gmtmasterhistory.com/gmt-master_ref_1675.html

I think the 25-116 is the correct crystal for the 1675. I built my 'Cornino' from a 'Steve McQueen' Explorer following RolexAddict's trailblazing. I managed to use a 5.3mm genuine crown, as the 1675 had. I built it to the 1960 model. I really love it.

A brand new ETA 2836-2 is $239.00 from Otto Frei. You would have the knowledge that it is genuine Swiss and a warranty. http://www.ofrei.com/page_183.html The ETA 2892-2 is better. $329.00, same page. The problem is fitting it to your watch. As already said, if it is a Chinese DG movement the dial feet are in the wrong position and the hands will not fit an ETA. Hands to fit the ETA are available in the Rolex 'Tudor' line, gen or aftermarket. If you have the Chinese movement, it is likely the DG2813. They can be hit or miss, but will usually last a good 3 to 5 years with no issues. My Son has one in the 16610 Submariner I got for him from one of our trusted dealers in China, wore it through all 4 years at University of Hawaii in the ocean and out, and even cliff diving with it. (Yes, I have been permanently scarred by parenthood ) The DG2813 is $28.95 from Otto Frei, again guaranteed to be new and guaranteed to run as it's supposed to. And they are CLEAN, unlike the ones that come in our finished reps. It is recommended when buying a rep from our trusted dealers, regardless what movement including 'Swiss' to have it serviced as soon as you receive it. I doubt many do that, but it is strongly recommended by the knowledgeable here on this site. http://www.ofrei.com/page1119.html Everyone needs to choose for themselves if they want a genuine Swiss movment, an 'Asian' ETA, or Chinese movement. I have all 3. A genuine Swiss movement, including Rolex and ETA, needs service roughly every 5 years. That service ranges from about $200 and up, as you likely know from your genuine watches. Having serviced a Chinese movement once (only once-never again ) I recommend that to service a Chinese movement like a DG2813 you remove the movement from the case. Remove the hands and dial. A tool to open the case, a hand remover tool, a set of nice screwdrivers, and a hand installing tool would be needed. Cost varies but you can get all that for under $100 from Frei. Place the movement on your workbench. Hit the thing with a 40 ounce ball peen hammer and sweep the mess into the garbage. Take the brand new movement and install in reverse order. The worst that can happen is you mess it up and take it to your watch guy and he finishes it. The absolute worst disaster that can happen is that you get some help from fellow members here, it goes beautifully, and you believe you have a new talent and these brand new tools that just scream to be used again. They will draw you in to start working on and modding watches like the rest of us. Be forewarned!

Oh, what I lovingly call a Lady!

At my age, I know that feeling. Multiple loupes, one eye in semi-permanent wink mode, after luming a dial I look like Inspector Clouseau's boss.

Oh, I'm getting my case sets from the wrong place...

The 'rehaut neck' on the case is necessary to be a gen style crystal mount. If the case has that, then it is a matter of the crystal. The bezel retaining ring is pressed onto the crystal. The ring only seats at the case. The bezel attaches to the retaining ring, not to the case. The bezel will seat wherever the retainer seats.

I bought the Helenarou mid case only (no bezel, crystal, etc,) because the side shape is very good, IMO. Just a bit of case mod should be all it needs for a 1950s Sub or GMT. I was disappointed that the crystal/bezel mount is NOT as per gen. No retainer is used. An acrylic crystal can be glued in, finding the correct size. My bezel and the Phong bezel do not fit. The indent for the spring on the case is too high. The caseback is better than the Silix/cartel, and looks good to me, but is not 2 piece gen-like. I paid around $125usd, and can't use it.

It is my understanding that the hands on the first Submariners were brass due to their intended sea duty. I got my 13mm minute hand from Helenarou and gently sanded all the hands to bare brass using 1500 grit sandpaper. The chapter ring itself measures 26mm in diameter. The look of the watch really changes using the 13mm minute hand in place of the 12mm minute hand used since. Since the hand change, I love my 6204 as much as my 6542s. The 6542 uses a silver 13mm minute hand but 'standard' length hour hand. If I can find a Tiger V2 case, or if someone makes a gen style case for reasonable money, I will rebuild the 6204 and improve the dial as well. Your 6200 is awesome! Small crown joy!

Thank you very much for your reply.

If you find two, let me know. I have been hunting for one for a while now.

Thanks. Maybe someone will tear one down and let us all know.

My bad, that should be 3mm wide. I need to use my good eye.

Tes, I've used the Tiger V2 cases, and like them. But the V2 is no longer available, and I don't know if the V3, which comes with a glass crystal instead of acrylic, uses a gen style crystal mount or a glue in. I bought the Helenarou case, it has a very good profile shape. It should be very easy to thin out and soften a bit. But it is a glass crystal gasket setup that would require a glue in acrylic crystal to work. So, I won't be using that one.

When I size the numbers to 2.04978cm, that is to the outside diameter of the numbers. The best I can measure is on an Ingod dial I have, and a gen dial I have. Both measure from the center of the pinion to the center of the date window at 10mm. The Ingod date window and the genuine measures 6mm wide. That works out to be correct, by my measurement. I didn't need to widen the Ingod dial. The windows I've had to widen are the dials that came with the cartel 1655 and 16750 Explorers that i refinish. (pictured above) I hope that helps.

Here is the thread with the vectorized open 6, flat top 3 DWO. I used this to make the roulette red/black used on the 6542. The water slide decals are far too difficult to work with when that small. It's like trying to center an egg noodle. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/150660-vintage-dwos/page-2?hl=%20overlay So, I took another member's idea, I don't remember who it was, and I print on clear, self sticking address labels Avery #18660. I size the numbers to 2.04978cm, and print 2 on the label. I know for certain I will mess up one. I print at the photo setting for highest resolution, and size it using a Photo Shop program. Any basic photo program will do. The attached pic is saved in my computer at 3000dpi, which is why it is so big here. Obviously, when sized it becomes more crisp. I paint the blank overlay to the color I want, white, aged, etc., and then the fun begins! Centering the label on the overlay is a pain, but you can gently pull it off and reposition a few times for correct positioning. I try to apply about half way and judge the position from there. Once centered, the next bit of fun begins. Positioning the finished overlay on the date wheel may take a few attempts before you get it right. I use a spare dial so that the on and off isn't being done with a good dial. Too many things can go wrong, broken dial feet, or messing up the dial face itself. Be certain to secure the dial feet to the movement, clamps on ETA, screws on DG, as that will make the dial move. Been there, done that. Once you have it set, triple check it! I have experienced 'magical wandering' of date wheels with an overlay. Quickset all around, but then use the hand set a few times to make certain it has not shifted. It's a real pain to think it's all lined up, and find that you have to tear the whole thing down because it is off a bit. Done that too. In regards to the problem of the date showing "if it is the 7th of the month of the 17th", that is an issue with the dial. The rep manufacturers have done a good thing finally positioning the date window in the correct place for Rolex crystal magnifiers, but they make the window a tad too small. I think it's about 1mm too narrow, and needs to be enlarged to the inside - towards the pinion - using a small file and large testicles. Making my own dials with the decals makes this easier. As always, better ideas and methods are not only welcome, but garner eternal gratitude!