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JoeyB

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Posts posted by JoeyB

  1. Wow, interesting! I don't really think you need to change a thing, your dials are great as they are imo

     

    Thanks. It'd be nice to have that little extra of the black visibly raised above the script. Of course with my tired, old eyes, I can't see it without a lot of help! I really like the 'natural' patina from the decal and spray sealer for an aged chapter ring dial. 

     

    What about a water-based varnish like Varathane diamond coat?

     

    I think I'd get the same effect as I do now. The picture above of the decal is without sealer. I've looked for a waterproof, permanent ink to use in an inkjet printer, but only found 'water-resistant'. They run and flatten out when the decal is wetted to apply. The quest continues! The problem with the quest is that every time I find an improvement I like, I wind up refinishing all my chapter ring dials! 

     

    This was my first decal from 2010. It has changed a lot since then. Serifs on all the markers including chapter ring, more crisp lettering, cleaning up computer pixel 'bleed', better sizing, sharper and more accurate crown 6 & 9 markers and triangle, etc.  

    post-16926-0-43699100-1418429947_thumb.j

  2. Great info Joey! That is a rare dial but the hour hand is obscuring the fact that the word date doesn't exist on yours, his dial is a rep

     

    The site says "This dial was first introduced without 'Date'-imprint, later versions show this imprint." so I'd guess it was a late early dial... :in_love:  

  3. post-16926-0-71617600-1418171739_thumb.jpost-16926-0-88959900-1418171779_thumb.j

     

    The first is from the link, the 2nd is from your post, turned. 

     

    If it is a gen, I'd say it's an early 16750, and it's a rare one. 

     

    From the link:

     

    Two different variants of the dial:
    Matt, without white gold indexes - rare.
    Glossy, with white gold indexes (identical to the newer GMTs). Rolex switched the dial during production (approx. serial 9XXXXXX / 1986). This dial was first introduced without 'Date'-imprint, later versions show this imprint. During service, many matt dials got replaced by glossy ones.

  4. Thanks mate I just sent an email asking for them. Hope they will get back to me :) In case they won't what's about this hand set? Will they fit the dg3804 movement?: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6960394/7605713.htm

     

    Since the gmt hand from rafflestime is ok I basically only need hour, minute and second hand. I don't want to go with tc hands since they are superlumed and that's not what I am looking for.

     

    Thanks for all the answers guys really helpful :notworthy:

     

    The DG movements take different minute and second hand sizes (1.00/1.50/.17) than ETA (Tudor)(.90/1.50/.25) and both are different than gen movements. You can broach the ETA minute hand to fit. I've never been able to successfully broach the second hand. 

  5. Hey guys :) As you may have seen I recently started a 1675 build based on a cartel 1655 case. Yuki dial is very nice and clarks bezel assembly rocks. Only drawback are the rafflestimes hands. They are too fat and not really 1675 correct. Moreover, yuki just didn't send their promised hands along -.- So I need your advice where to source correct (also light green lume and not blue like the raffles hands I got) handset which fits the dg3408 movement.

     

    Thanks for any advice and check the picture so you see what I am talking about ;)

     

    Cheers

    For the DG movement, Rafflestime has the correct pinion size GMT hand in both arrow head sizes. I think you want the flat hands for a 1675, and as you said Rafflestime hands are not correct, too 'rounded' looking, and Clark's does not have parts for the Chinese movements. Helenarou is one place to try. http://www.helenarou.com/index.html Send an email asking, and ask for a picture. Mention RWG. 

  6. That 'u' shaped spring does fly when you remove the plate. I swear I heard a tiny sonic boom as it broke the sound barrier flyng off, and burned up on re-entry, never to be found!

    To install that spring I used a piece of Scotch tape. Install the plate, then the spring through the slot. I stick the tape to the spring, and being able to see through the tape, position it and push in the slot. That little bit of hold seems to do the trick.

    I then found that the easiest way to service a DG movement was using the special, DG Movement Tool.

     

     post-16926-0-76939000-1417380792_thumb.j

    De-Case the movement. Place the movement on your workbench. Apply the 'JoeyB Special DG Movement Adjustment Tool™' with sufficient force. Sweep the movement into the trash. Buy a new movement ($25 - $35). 

  7. I wish I had the nerve to try and do that by myself...

     

    Get the lume you want. Both RA and I use a water base acrylic glow paint, and thin it a bit further with water. Then take a picture of your dial or off the net and print up a few. Then practice on them. I've used everything imaginable to apply, from toothpicks to oilers, and tiny artists brush. I'm too old and shaky to make a straight line. Fortunately, many of the old gen gilt dials I have seen were done by someone with the same affliction!  For me, a nib (the calligraphy pen) works best. It gives me the control and comfort I need at my advanced age! I use that on the 6 and 9 straight markers, and the coronet at 12. For the hour markers on gilt dials I use a round toothpick, or one of those skinny bamboo skewers for shish-ka-bobs, flatten the tip to about the size of the marker inside the surround, lightly dip in the lume and lightly touch as close to center as I can. A little practice makes almost a perfect circle every time. 

     

    Be brave! If you think of something that makes sense to you, try it. If it works tell the rest of us! If it doesn't work tell us anyway so we don't!  

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