JoeyB
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Posts
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Posts posted by JoeyB
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I think yours will be awesome!
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I used an ETA 2846 and cartel case in my 6204 build and had to make the hour hand and second hand because nothing I could find was suitable. It is my only Submariner, and I love it.
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So that's a couple of hours different than central time?
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Ya' gotta love `em!
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Most of the 1675s we have here cost more than $515!
I haven't changed my mind either. It's vintage for me.
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All the way! Thank you, and you for your service as well.
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Well, everyone needs a hobby...
From there I went to the 5th, then the 3rd, then the 1st. 38 years altogether. Only one bad day. Retired, fat and lazy now.
Welcome to the forum. This hobby isn't quite as painful!
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Lew, 12th Special Forces Group? I was in the 12th in 1970 and 1971. When did you serve?
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This is my 1675 using a cartel Explorer case and with a genuine 5.3mm crown. Is the gap too much?
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Important Modern and Vintage Timepieces
09-04-2014 Sold including buyer's premium:
32,500 USD
That is insane
Maybe. But then I thought that an insert alone on Ebay that was broken in at least 11 pieces, and the ad said he didn't know if all the poieces were there, sold for over $1000usd was insane.
When a gen 6542 with original dial, hands, insert and bezel sells for more than $60,000usd, and a 6542 that has a Rolex factory replacement service dial and metal insert can be as low as $12,000usd, what is the gen bezel assembly worth? If you came onto a 6542 for $12K to $25K that needed a bezel assembly, is $32,500 worth the investment?
I've seen gen 6542s with my aftermarket inserts sell for more than $50K. Surprisingly to me the majority by far of my inserts have been shipped to individuals in Honk Kong and Switzerland.
I don't know of any aftermarket bezels that are made of nickel-plated brass, all I've seen are stainless steel. But I do know how much work goes into making each insert, how much research before hand to get it right, how many attempts to find the correct colors and grainy look on the numbers, and keep it all from bleeding into each other. Heck, just getting them the right dimensions on a consistent basis is a job. And I've been trying for over a year now to make a correct brass bezel.
The bottom line is that, like our reps that range from $100 to fully modded frankens over $6K, it is worth what someone will pay.
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I ve a 2893 sitting in the box. I'm saving it for a vintage GMT. A 6542 has been calling me. GLWB!
It's me Stone P
I used the ETA 2893-2 in my very first 6542 build. It is a great movement, but I later swapped it for a ETA 2846 and a slower beat. The ETA 2893-2 needed some coaxing to fit the Silix case I used, and I had to thin out the dial quite a bit. But it fit nicely in my 116710. The ETA 2846 is my favorite movement, and is in several of my vintage builds. In my opinion, for the faster beat builds the ETA 2892/2893-2 rivals the performance of gen Rolex.
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Thank you everyone so much for your help. I swapped the movement because I screwed up the keyless on my A2824. Rather than pay to have it fixed I thought I'd try to just swap it. I actually had the sw200 spare from another project so it seemed like an easy solution.
It seems like the parts will actually fit but thanks to the advice above, I won't try it. Searching for a already assembled movement with the H4 height.
Sneed's tutorial is outstanding, and while it applies to most ETA movements, this one is repairing the ETA 2824. It really is easy. Just take your time, look at the pictures and back at your movement. If you go no further in repairs, at least you'll save yourself $25 or more whenever a keyless works messes up. I have it bookmarked.
A word of caution: This was the first repair I made. It makes you a bit more brave to try other repairs.
http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/132392-eta-keyless-tutorial/?p=987221&hl=sneed12&fromsearch=1
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It red-lined at 8 grand!
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Droptop, think of this as an engine build. You want an intake tuned to the exhaust, valves tuned to the intake, cams to manage those valves and pipes tuned to the exhaust pulses. One piece affects all the others. It's the same with a watch build, the pieces are all interrelated.
This was a great kickoff for you. Nicely done!
I tried that once, but it ran too fast...
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"Rolex introduces world first on its Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, unveiling a red and blue Cerachrom bezel insert, echoing the first GMT‑Master bezel of 1955."
"The aesthetic effect is equally spectacular. The ceramic’s sheen gives volume to the insert and enhances the colours in a way that is reminiscent of the Plexiglas insert of the original GMT-Master."
While I like the new insert, I still prefer the smaller lug case. So, if Rolex is trying to emulate the "original" I guess I'll stick with the original.
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The rep that's currently out there has the bezel paint in the wrong order, opposite of this new GMT.
Good catch! Just when you think the rep factories are getting really good they do that! They got the fantasy ceramic black/red 'coke' correct, why the 'Pepsi' goof-up?
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Love the Nassau blue in fact I am looking for that or marina blue for the current one. Bet you wish you still had that sounds awesome. They are pulling big bucks these days.
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I sold it for $1500 when I went in the service. The 1968 Corvette made the `63 - `67 old!
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What a beauty. I like the. 59 and 60 better than the 58 but any would do. I am more knowledgable mid 60's up. Oldest one I owned was a 63 split window 327 4 speed. Favorite is 66-67 but they are just too expensive these days.
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`65 and `66 are almost identical. Mine was a roadster, two tops, factory side pipes, Nassau blue, 327/300hp 4spd. First year for 4 wheel disc brakes.
I was in high school from `64 - `68, and a gear head. Chevy guy, but pretty much knew them all. Saw all the great muscle cars when they were brand new. I worked in a gas station my senior year, when there was no self-serve yet.
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Be happy to donate to your fund.... Build me a nice GMT. Kiddin. I have had 12 mint old personal Vettes over the years and a bunch more when I owned a car lot. Lots of personal Camaros and Chevelles too. On the search now for a 68-72 Vette Roadster 4 speed car. Nothing over the top show car but more something nice but that I can drive and do doughnuts with. Had the show cars and end up never driving them because afraid of a rock chip or any little thing that devalues them. I love muscle cars even more than Rolexes.
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A gen 6542 would be close to an even swap!
I've had a `65, `73 and `85. Doughnuts? That makes the ujoints in the IRS shafts sound like little birdies. First hand experience.
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Oh and I really love the 59 with the curved tail lights in the fenders
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Those tail lights evolved to the full light from the `56 and `57 partial light and full bezel in the fender, and ran from `58 through `60. In `58 they started the 4 headlight look. Slight differences between `58 - `60, notably lots of chrome on the `58, gone in `59.
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You better save your money:)
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My lifelong favorite, 1960 Corvette. (58' - 60' works) And yes, I have save for it.
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I tried making a red letter 6542 dial, but the red is raised on the genuine dial. It looked like garbage incorporating it into the decal, and I can't make those little letters with a paint brush! I did make the exclamation point dial for my 1675, and that was good.
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Yep, black over gilt, lume over black. The "gilt" is actually the brass plate beneath showing through openings in the black.
That is precisely the way the water-slide decals I use work. Inkjet doesn't print white, so the lighter colors like the gold/gilt allow the dial brass to show through to a degree. The decals are sealed using a clear coat before they are wetted and applied.
As it ages the 'gilt' look subsides to more of what we are used to seeing today.
I didn't know about the white paint under the lume. That is very interesting.
Craigslist 'Specials'
in The Rolex Area
Posted
On Craigslist they usually say "replica" or clone. Must not be a problem there.