pdnb

HI Looking for a GMT. I know of the 88, 89, and north pole. I really like the plain LUME markers in the north pole 252, but not totally into the NSEW bezel markers. The 88, 89, 228 have too many sub hour LUME markings. Is there a GMT that I am missing in the REP world that would have more of a simpler face like the 252, but not have that bezel? thanks, pdnb

about to send to Zig as well, it looks smooth in the photos, but can you confirm that the LUME is applied very smoothly and that the LUME glow is nice and uniform in each marking?

radiomirs 322 and 307

How do you compare the ETA and soprod PR module (DSN 27/28/57) and whatever the low cost Asian PR movement that is used on $100 PR watches (like at getat?) I am assuming that the PR indicator does work properly on the other Asian movement. I think most on the forum think that Asian built 6497s are really robust and that there is a blur of Asian and Swiss for the 6497. Will the asian PR movements crap out on you or are they legit as well? Let me know what the real considerations are between the two. Thanks! pdnb

im curious, do PR indicators work? what is the PR? Thanks

thanks Turbo, what do you think about what should caseback be for 322? I know i don't have any real choices right now. if it was made to be open caseback then it would be a showing a wrong 6497??? would it be best just to accept the close back since it would be impossible to get the correct movement? Either way its such a large tell, it might as be considered a fantasy

If I had to venture a guess, I would assume the RWG population would say go for the 232. It seems know one has bought the 322. Perhaps the biggest issue is that the case back is inaccurate and impossible to become accurate without the correct movement? 322 and 232 Similarities: 47mm Radiomirs Brown Sandwich Dials (don't know if same brown color) Gold hands Differences (to me PRO 322): 322 gold inlay seconds at 9 Ti case Differences (to me CON 322) 322 incorrect case back, even it it was open, wouldn't it be annoying to have wrong movement? GEN 322 has such a large real world value, that it would be virtually impossible for someone to assume it was real. 232 is more accurate to gen. 232 GEN real world value is "reasonable" and more realistic to own gen. Anything I am missing between the two?

nice, who makes the strap?

OK, so now down to brass tax. I am debating between two DSN watches with sausage dials, a C1+C3 (27b/57c) dial or a vintage dial (27a). I think it is pretty clear that the C1+C3 will be brighter, but I received an 89 in the past and didn't like the uneven ness of the LUME (it seemed to have tiny black dots in the LUME that was only noticeable in the dark close up). Are these black/dark dots that I saw more of a "1-off" QC miss, or somewhat typical of DSN sausage dial LUME application? I know there are other differences between the watches like PR arrow, and or Ti/SS case, 1st edition vs 2nd edition, but functionally and enjoyment wise the difference for me is how the LUME will look.

Thanks Zig for the clarification...I would assume mixing Lumes would not produce a more even glow, I am actually assuming that it is the mixture of the C1 and C3 (some REPS have this mixture) that may produce a more UN-even glow... is this true or is the presence of an un-even glow is more related to the application technique not the mixing? Also, do you provide a service in applying Lume? Also can a vintaged color lume be applied to be bright?

MD- im sorry where do I go?

I like smooth and Bright LUME with Uniform/EVEN lumination. It bothers me tremondously if the dial lumineses unevenly (i.e. small black dots, perhaps with uneven grain sizes???). I know Sausage dial application is very difficult, but is there a difference between types of LUME that allow for a more EVEN application??? Is it fair to say that a mixture of C1 and C3 may provide an uneven luminenese (with close inspection) more than a C1 or C3 only, or a vintage colored LUME? LUME experts... shed some light on this matter

Spoke to DSN via email, he is updating the 57 caseback! I will wait if I decide between 27 and 57...anyone intersted in the 27b except me? i don't know if I am going to get the 27a, 27b or 57...

Is this the Non-moving PR dial, or the working 40 hour PR dial? I am assuming it is the non-moving because the placement of the subdial looks correct.

Agreed a suede brown strap would be sweet. My intention was to have 1 Rad and 1 Lum. And since my Rad is 183H, I have a Black Sandwich Dial open case w/seconds at 9 manual wind, so a 27/57 would be a nice complement.

Is this a general consensus... to get a 27a and not 27b? is it more interesting from a collector's view to get the firs edition, vs the 2nd? I was leaning toward the lume on the PR hand and the C1+C3 lume...but I can't distinguish DSNs descriptions: 27a/28a states Vintage LUME, 27b/28b states C1+C3 LUME. Is this the same or different? Its important to me if the LUME is applied very evenly so when glowing there are no dark spots and it is very uniform and smooth and ideally bright. It sounds like neither or SuperLUMED, so the question is if these dials have the same LUME substance and if NOT, do you know from an execution point of view, which would be easier to apply and hence more probable to receive a nice LUMED dial?

Sorry for the double post, did VAC do the LUME and can you show it? Thanks! pdnb

Proj- Is this the version with the NON-moving PR scale? Thanks

The reason I'm debating the 27 vs 57 and bot the 28 is because I didn't wanted a pvd case, so for me its a choice between black dial ss case or brown dial with Ti case I want the ti case, but I'm a little worried that the brown dial would be less versatile. Thoughts on brown dial versatilility?

Thanks Storm Trooper! yes I do get the jist. I like it. I guess I am going to have to wait to see the 57 (hasn't been released yet) before I jump on a 27. pdnb

SS, THIS WILL INDEED BE REPPED BY DSN, IM DEBATING BETWEEN THE 57 OR 27B ANY THOUGHTS?

D- Thanks for the clarification on franken vs fantasy. Yes Im aware of the 177, im really debating between 27b or 57. I think I want a 27/28b dial in Ti case. I think I may want a black dial for more wearing versatility... and if I drop the money for that... i'm not getting another pam Now what do you think? get a straight up 57, 27, or 28?

since I have never seen a brown dial, i'm trying to get a feel how a brown dial looks. The only way to tell (IMO) is if is side by side with a known dial color (black). a lot of the times you can't even tell in pictures and wondering how subtle or apparent the brown colors tend to be. My motivation for my question is that I am looking at Titanium cases, which most have brown dials. I am wondering if I could ask DSN to franken a black dial with a Ti case (I know there are some GEN combos with Ti and Blk combos). Thanks!

Also, if you could, could you do a lume shot? I would like to know if I would "miss" the lume on the PR hand from the A series. I am very particular of LUME, so I am leaning toward b series, but I am not sure if I like the arrow or leaf more. thanks

Richard- How brown is the dial vs black? I like Titanium because the scratches hide better and lighter. I think I would like the 27 or 28b dial with Titanium case. Do you find having a brown dial more limiting in matching your clothes... or it never is an issue vs black dial? Thanks!