Ronin

I was thinking of ordering one for Mrs. Ronin, but our trip to Europe this year has our cash all tied up.

This is a great deal if you ask me...

100 Limited Edition

100 pieces, made and assembled by hand in Switzerland

Case

Satin brushed sold stainless steel (316L). 44.60 mm in total length, 42.70 mm not including the crown, 44.50 mm including the crown. Water resistant to 1200 Meters/3937 ft. Dial diameter = 27mm

Crystal

Scratch-resistant, anti-reflective 3mm domed sapphire crystal

Caseback

Solid stainless steel, screw down case back. Engraved with limited edition number 000/100

HRV

Helium Release Valve

Bezel

Unidirectional stainless steel, engraved with the US Navy non-Decompression table

Movement

High grade 25 jewel self-winding Swiss made movement, hacking seconds, 28800 beats per hour, 42 hour power reserve, based upon the ETA 2824-2, decorated by DOXA

Anti-Shock

Incabloc shock protection

Functions

Hours, minutes, seconds, quick-set date at 3 o'clock

Hands

Replica of the original 1967 SUB hands, Superluminova filled, featuring the iconic dwarf hour hand.

Bracelet

Solid stainless steel, DOXA SUB " Beads of Rice" style, wetsuit extension, and 20 mm end pieces

Presentation

DOXA's world-famous "scuba bottle" presentation case, made of heavy anodized aluminum

Additional

High quality Bergeon screwdriver.

Warranty

DOXA's 2 year limited warranty

Operating Manual

Included

Price

Factory Price: $2,490.00

Special Price: $1,890.00

https://www.doxasub....der.aspx?ID=213

Wow, awesome history lesson!

Looks like my grail Doxa therefore will be a Silver Conquistador.

@chubbchubb, nice Sinn. I need one of those...

Today:

Homebrew:

That's not the case. The markers are black. But I have also seen some gun metal ones as well. I have a gen dial in my Noob Explorer 2, and they are black. Predominantly the markers are black, and not gun metal.

Pre-SEL perhaps. I have seen a myrid of white EXPII whites from 1999 forward and none are "True Black". Is your dial a cream colored? Blackening might also be oxidization on an older dial. Can you post pics of yours?

Nanuq,

Are there any Black Lung SeaRamblers out there that you are aware of?

I have a gen 703 tube & crown on my noobmariner and this crown does not fit at all. The shaft diameter is bigger.

Are you sure you don't have a BK Crown/Tube on the noob? That would explain it. Same with some of the MBW stuff.

I have a Clark "Gen Spec" 703 tube here, that will accept both a crimped 703 Crown and a Monoblock 704... ???

Now what one earth would that have been used for? I was wondering why the shaft diameter of the crown was so much thicker than any other crown/tube set I had here!

Just saw the 704 monoblock like in Ubi's pic on the watch (dots farther away) on a BRAND NEW 14060M @ Ben Bridge Jewelers. I am guessing RSC will be moving onto these on future sub service. They are backwards compatible with the 703 tubes.

Here is the same on my 1680 build:

You can regulate it like a Miyota/DG.

In short, do NOT move the lever on yours with the BIG single dot, move only the the arm with the two dots. CLOSER together = Slower, Farther Apart should be Faster.

Stolen Content Below showing the CONCEPT on a Miyota BUT MIRRORED of your ETA:

Here is a closeup of the Miyota. As you can see by the illustration there is a bar that is moved in either direction to change the watches timing. Moving the bar in a counter clockwise closer direction (towards A) will slow the movement and by moving the bar in a clockwise wider direction (towards B will speed up the movement. There are two things with this movement that make it a bit difficult to regulate. The first is that there is only a very small notch on the other side near the +/- © to show your changes, so you either have to judge the movement of the bar compared to the jewel to its right or visualize a line to see where it falls on the +/- that I have illustrated with the yellow line. The Second is that the bar is VERY touchy. Just a small change of the bar can throw the movement off by minutes instead of seconds, where the selita/ETAs are a bit easier with the screw. Below is an example of the extreme changes you can run into.

....4 o'clock hour marker also seems to indicate gray surounds, not black.

Remember GEN is NOT Black, but charcoal/gun metal...

GEN

Nice. Are those Maxi hands on the 14060...

Well Done!

question: who still uses a modem?

Cable Modem.

I have taken to video documenting everything, and using tamper proof tape. One continuous shot, etc. Signature confirmation. And USPS proof of acceptance, and a photo of it at the PO. That way if the buyer accuses me of not sending the item, I have more than the average proof. Excessive and paranoid on my part...yes.

Based on you receiving empty box, sounds like it is time to start video documenting the receipt of items.

I would hope, PP would consider such evidence in a claim.

I just spent 8 days in Vegas, and when I saw the title of your post I thought it said: "Help with Strippers name"...

Sounds like something is amiss in the 28x6 GMT Modification. Long short, you need to pull the movement, hands, dial, and poke around. If you are not capable, some other members here are.

It might not be the hand but a missing tension washer between the 24hr gear and the hour/dial.

When you manually set it, you are engaging a different drive mechanism. The fact the hand moves when in that mode, tells me it is not the hand.

Well Done!

My hands and feet were sweating watching that.

Here is a video of my DG3804, that: Dropped into a GEN Case. Even the datewheel aligns with GEN Dials out-of-the-box. No overlay used. (True, not silver, but felt the "serviced DW replacement look worked).

DG3804 PRO's:

• Drops into Gen Case with slightly sanded Stilty ring or Yuki 1575 adapter
• Datewheel aligns with Gen Dial
• Datewheel mechanism easily modifiable (Stock white/black numbers can be sanded off revealing silver area for overlay decal)
• Mercedes Hands readily available. A Gen GMT hand could be adapted.
• Slow Beat 21.6. (ETA 2836 mods are high beat / wrong, and NO BETTER as it is not a factory ETA, and never Swiss)
• If it fails / dies, R&R it for under $30.

OMFG!

Can you simply say VARIANCE in manufacturing!

Maybe TH was making Rotors one way for 4 months, then changed mid-stream. Maybe their machine that machines the rotor broke, and they outsourced a few. Maybe the ETA 7750 "Kits" supplied to TH for their in-house finishing contained blue screws during the 10th month of the year.

Christ, go look at Gen Rolex dials from one quarter of 1972 and the last quarter of 1972. One has R O LEX, and one has ROLEX.

Would you take your car back because one has red spark plug wires, and the other one you saw on the lot has black?

At the end of the day, isn't the rest of the watch still a REPLICA?

We do not talk about any ETA 7750 movement here, but a gen TH Calibre 16 with perforated rotor. That's what was sold to me, but I received something else. Obviously I was not thrilled.

Yes we are, they are the same thing. Scroll up to the GEN Cal 16 posted. See the 7750 and ETA logo stamped on the Gen Cal 16. Given the price paid, you got a deal either way.

Simple, functional, looks good.

Only complaint is the whimpy crown. A more robust crown would make it

Your version is not interchangeable with Gen parts.

The tension wire you describe can sometimes be a PITA. Trial and error getting it back in the right spot and in its groove. In a worst case scenario, you may even need to install it with the insert removed, and glue the insert in after a sucessful bezel install being super careful not to glue it to the case or crystal.

HTH