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sssurfer

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Posts posted by sssurfer

  1. As you can see from The Zigmeister's terrific thread, the 6mm cyclopses project is a success: The lenses look and fuction at least as well as we expected them to.

    If you placed a deposit, please paypal the balance (n x 17 USD) to the same address you already sent the deposit, and your lens(es) will be shipped within 24 hours. You may confirm or correct your shipping address by including it in your transaction.

    Thanks again,

    The Watchmen

  2. Ah, Mahler! Nice to see you've been biten by the PAM bug finally! :D (Btw, great choice! :thumbsupsmileyanim:)

    And sad to hear your bug being seized by the customs. :angry:

    But -- I've never heard of a vanished package so far. Italiam customs just seem to send it back to the source again.

    Less than one more month waiting, I would bet.

    Keep up, and my best wishes!

  3. I wanted to check Enzo's post on strap distressing at RWI, but it is at least two days that I seem unable to reach RWI.

    I read that with some members it is because of their ISPs, but I think this is not my case as I was able to get in until some weeks ago.

    Any suggestions? Any problems to you in opening RWI?

  4. Is not even a tiny portion of the stem sticking out of the crown tube? Anything you can hold with pliers?

    If it is not, I am afraid you are out of luck.

    If it is, before trying to unscrew the residual portion of stem you'll also have to remove the glue that held the stem in place. Usually hard metal glue. I wonder how it can be done.

    Sorry. I hope someone else here can help you more.

  5. Just a word of caution about any of the newer asian movt subs and Arktos (not the 7750 versions but the cheaper 21j asian movts) - you will not be able to fit a new cyclops to these watches as they are a part of the crystal and cannot be removed.

    I am going to replace the whole crystal on any watch whose old cyclops should reveal unremovable. :D

  6. Marco:

    As you know I am in for two cyclops. Do you think the replacement of the old lens for the new one will satisfy me especially on the 7750 models? I mean without putting an additional lens between the cyclops and the date wheel (it that be understood correctly)?

    You understood perfectly, Frank. The additional lens I told about was to be placed into the date window of the dial, or just below it, between the date window and the datewheel.

    While I still have no news from Finepics (our front-end man with the company) about the cyclops, our highest hope and intention is that they will be able to improve the date magnification on almost all models. As far as I remember from my lost posts on RWG1, PAMs with 7750 have quite a good distance between the datewheel and the crystal (and therefore between the datewheel and the cyclops too), so your magnification should improve significantly.

    Besides of that, the new cyclopses are sapphire, not mineral glass like the rep cyclopses, so they are supposed to be crystal clear and to improve the overall date visibility as well.

    On the other hand, even the new cyclops will not be able to correct issues like a poor visibility of the numbers when viewed by ankles because of a datewheel placed far below the date window.

    I suggest that you just verify by your own eyes the results of the new cyclopses before applying any modifications on your 050 and Arktos.

    In order to reduce reflections, you may also want to consider applying AR coating after placing the new cyclops, so to have both the crystal and the cyclops AR coated. I'll have Finepics doing exactly it on my 028.

    I am also surprised that you are not satisfied with the date of your 050. I also own a 050, and it has the best date font and date visibility of all my PAM reps.

    All the best,

    :sss:

  7. Shultz,

    what dachshund said is absolutely correct, but the new cyclops should more-than-compensate for the loss in magnification that you will suffer by taking the datewheel a little closer to the dial.

    An even better solution would be by putting a small pre-magnifier lens just below the date window and above the datewheel, between them. ETA 2893 uses such a solution, and I saw it even on some power reserve reps, like the 090 from TTK.

    For a watch that you really love, you might want to get a rep with that lens, and to sacrify its date magnification in order to get that lens out. Then apply it to your other watch.

    Unsure on how to actually do it, though, and if there is clearance enough between the dial and the datewheel in your watch.

  8. No way, I am afraid, ryaku.

    As for side-to-side alignment, no way for sure.

    As for top-bottom alignment, the datewheel is solid with the movement by means of teeth. So the only way to get it properly centered in the date window is by slightly rotating the dial with respect to the movement -- counterclockwise, in your case.

    But this would leave your watch with a misaligned dial with respect to the watch case.

    Conversely, rotating the movement is not possible because of the crown stem.

    Maybe you can act a little on the dial and a little on the movement, just some fraction of mm each, so ending up with a little misaligned dial and a little misaligned crown stem, but the overall result is highly unsure. You are likely going to be bothered by those results even more than by your current date misalignment.

    Better to hear from your watchsmith, anyway.

    Mi dispiace, ciao!

  9. As far as I know, all manufacturers permanently secure the stem into the crown tube with some (non-reversible) glue.

    You may want too, unless you plan to unscrew the stem again in order to re-use it or the crown.

    As for the crown guard screws, I personally don't secure them. If you want to, be sure to use a reversible, non-colored glue.

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