Drulee

Just to clarify, I would like your measurement of the case, not the measurement that the original dealer provides. Please post your specs. EDIT: I will put measurements from members who contributed to my other thread on RWI, and keep the table below updated as measurements come in. Origin / Type / Measurement / Note ------------------------------------------------- Gen / 000 / 14.55mm / crystal rises 0.6mm above top of bezel JacksonTse / Manual Ti / 13.9mm JacksonTse / Manual PVD / 14.8mm JacksonTse / Auto PVD / 17.2mm EddieLee / 111 / 14.6mm / crystal rises 1.2mm above top of bezel PWC/T4D / 089 / 15.8mm DSN / Old school PVD / 13.2mm DSN / 240 / 16.9mm / old style bezel DSN / 240 / 17mm / case back is 3mm DSN / 104 / 17mm / case back is 3mm DSN / 229 / 16.8mm / case back is 3mm DSN / 086 / 16.77mm / case back is 3mm DSN / "Big Egi" / 19.049mm unknown / Pre-V / 14.1mm JimmyFzu / unknown / 14.0mm / w/DSN caseback Andrew / 201/A / 14.39mm / w/DSN caseback Sead / 212 / 17.7mm Sead / 111H / 14mm PWC/T4D / 250 / 16.4mm / old style case with pusher at 10 PWC/T4D / 127 / 18.1mm / still has protective plastic on back and crystal THICKEST case, so far: Novesh's DSN "Big Egi" @ 19.049mm thinnest case, so far: DSN "old school" PVD @ 13.2mm

I don't want to sound like a commercial here, or hijack my own topic , but blackbard's case opener makes opening all the 44mm cases effortless, makes centering and closing the case quite simple, makes it easier to judge how tight you have actually screwed the case closed and acts as a nice post to wrap your Pam around - nice and shiny like your 111

Not too wide, too thick at the ends. Definitely don't want to get into unstitching it. By the way, I definitely think your case back opener was great buy. Good to see you've got it on eBay now - it's a great deal for anyone looking for an easy way to open their cases. Speaking of which, before I got your opener, I opened up and closed a case with a cheaper opener and destroyed the gasket. Do you know what the standard gasket size used is? Thanks

Too thick, the lug holes won't line up with the strap hole. I just had a thought (does happen occasionally), there may be tubes in the holes that I can remove, giving me more leeway. I'll check.

I had a custom strap made by a member of RG; as the site is down, I've been unable to contact him yet. The thing is, the ends of the strap (that attach to the lugs) are too thick and the strap won't fit onto the case. What is the best way to reduce the thickness of the ends, without destroying the strap? Thanks

Great work Francisco. I was going to use your tutorial to add some white text to a black dial, but I realized that very few printers (none that I have access to) can actually print white text (or graphics for that matter). What can I do?

I tried to get some measurement over on RG before it went down, but only one member stepped up. Let's see how capable RWG members are at using calipers Please measure your 44mm cases (with case back and crystal installed) and post the result here, along with case type (manual/auto), material (ti/SS) and source (DSN/PWC/T4D/Cartel/Sead...). Here is an example: 13.9mm Manual Titanium from Jackson Tse Anyone with a genuine PAM, PLEASE post your measurements, as well. Thanks for your participation.

The only thing that I can think of, is fairly drastic. If you have a drill-press and very small diameter drill bit (just big enough for second hand [censored] to clear) ... but I wouldn't try it myself

Where did the crown guard come from? "Brev Ital"

A Little Hero 111 shouldn't require further modification, unless you are unhappy with the lume that has been applied, then you may want to send to Vac for more accurate lume. As for your list, it will take you a while to gather all the above and may end up costing as much or more than the LH assembled - depending on what he's charging now. There are other avenues, such as getting a good base and sending to the circuit Rex(service and mods)->Vac(Lume)->Chief(AR)

Well in my case, I don't spend any "extra" time reading these forums. I browse the forums only when I'm already doing work on the computer. Let's say I'm converting some videos, updating a site, burning a DVD/CD, backing-up, uploading or archiving files - rather than stare at a progress bar, I'll do some forum reading or posting. The same goes when I'm feeling "brain freeze" kicking in while working on a project. As far as modding, assembling or just critiquing the physical watch(es), when other family members are determined to rot their brains watching television, I'm giving the watches some attention in the background. I haven't actually "watched" a TV program since the Sopranos ended.

I would like to know the size of the gaskets that are used to seal the case and case back, also used in bezels, for the 44mm cases. If you have a few extras, that would be great, as I've just mangled one

It puts the CG pin into the basket...

I like this one, reminds me of a tarantula.

I'd assume that fred123 is your alter ego. Welcome to the alternate universe, where strange things happen...

So that's what a good PVD case finish looks like Very nice The Zigmeister. Did you find it impossible to get a PVD lever pin?

Can't speak for TWB's carbon deployant, but I just got their gator deployant and really like it - even though some claim it's just a gator texture. I have a 24x24 BOB carbon which I like and will probably get their platinum deployant because of the quality.

You'd think with all the RG exiles here, that there would be some input. What's the matter, haven't figured out how to use that "pincer like" device yet? Tell you what, just take a picture of the profile of your watch head, with a ruler sitting on top of it (number showing ) and I'll figure it out. Here is one to start things off: Jackson Tse titanium manual movement case with display back and mineral crystal - 13.9 mm

If you narrow down your criteria a bit, we could point you in the right direction. For example, what rep did you get and what's your budget. Also, is there a particular style you're partial to.

Yes, actually the reason I was able to borrow it, was because he wanted me to show him how to clear out all the old pictures from the memory card. Not RED12, but good eye, you picked out my current favourite strap - that one and the Caiman on the 250. The olive strap has a "suede" like finish, very soft and flexible - I had it custom made by BlueRadish (unbelievable prices) here in Canada. The Caiman, also very pliable and really looks great (good price too) is from luvadub (never get this right, and RepGeek is down now) over on RG.

Well, as I don't have my regular camera back yet, I borrowed a digital camera from a neighbour for some work I wanted to get out of the way. I figured while I had the camera, I may as well take an overdue wrist shot. Here are some members of a constantly growing collection: There are five others, but I ran out of wrist space Not bad for a month into this hobby of ours (startin to sound like a mobster).

He already did the swap, using the knife. Ended up with some scratches, but was able to remove them using an ink eraser. If he has anything to add, I'm sure he'll jump in. But why do you say that a screw-in press is required and not a push-down one? I've seen a couple of "modders" post some great tutorials using the push-down one, with great results.

Are all the T48 crowns sold? Also, where is a source for stems?

Are you sure the 088 movement was a 7750, and not a 29?? (or was it 28??, I forget). Because I know they had big problems.

I guess you missed my second post. I'm just looking for the movement, not entire watch. Just got a message from an individual in China who said they could get me an A7750 GMT high-beat for $125 - but who knows, he's not really an established member.