ubiquitous

Nah... It's on me. If I can help another member, that's all that matters...

Indeed... Markers are usually a little more ivory colored. Fantastic watch! The MBW 1680 is one of the classics in my book...

Used to be auth service for R!chemont... But I don't believe this to be the case any longer. What you see is most likely old stock in his inventory....

Out of the 3, I'd definitely have to recommend the 16610 Submariner Date. Best all around watch; very versatile, comfortable on the wrist and as Mike mentioned, retains it's value quite well. If possible, however, I would try and find something with a little more vintage appeal- A nice 16800 or 16660 is an excellent choice- All the great characteristics of the old vintage matte dialed models but with a sapphire crystal. These ref's are starting to increase in popularity, but either of those would be my preference these days for genuine...

Ahhhh... Michael/adam-co's usual offerings. Good stuff, and 100% genuine.

Was always into the usual back then... The EG's with the B series motor swaps, then got into some MR2's and the sort. Never really went for high HP... Mostly just liked a clean, mildly tuned and tweaked car. These days I'm into the Germans... And my son is the resident gear head. Here he is, helping a very good friend of mine dial in his Z32 TT... Last week he got to sit in his first Ferrari- An F355, red on tan. He seems to have developed a taste for the expensive stuff as of late

That adjustment will not correct 5 - 10 minutes per day; there's something else going on with the watch- Perhaps a tangled hairspring, or maybe no lubrication in the pivots. Probably best to see about getting it serviced as: 1) You'll have a good base line for servicing and a well oiled movement. 2) There's no telling what might be wrong with a replacement. Just my $0.02 on the matter...

Hmmmm.. Vinny Ten/PF? Wasn't he busted for running a chop shop on the side? It's been a long time since my tuning days, but I seem to recall him as being the only tuner on the 2JZ in NYC...?

Nice find! €60 is quite a nice price, especially if it includes all the extras pictured in that first attchment...

Wholeheartedly agree... Gotta have at least one stealth PVD in the collection!

Hmmmm... I wouldn't think it to be difficult to fab- We already know that rep manufacturers have access to Ti and can machine it... I think that there are bigger areas for improvement though, i.e. the case dimensions, etc. that can be improved upon first before worrying about the valve

I might have a spare... I'll need to check my parts box, but if I do, I can send it your way...

So, I suppose that the only real way to get a correct looking He Valve is to have it made in titanium as well, since that's what the genuine uses for the 16600...

Nevermind the fact that the genuine 16600 has a crystal that measures almost 1mm smaller than a 16610's, and is significantly thicker as well. The immediate difference is not so apparent at first glance, but if you've seen and handled enough of both, it becomes quite apparent that the Sea-Dweller's dial looks a bit more crowded, and that the bezel insert looks a little wider.

Hey Aaron, If there is no screw down crown, the problem is most likely elsewhere. The problems I was running into seemed to be a result of the sprung pressure of the crown threading onto the tube with a stem that was a touch too long. Since yours is not screw down, there's no pressure. For those looking for a hack function try this: While in the time setting position, try applying a bit of back pressure on the crown. In most hand wind movements (autos too without hack), this slight back pressure will cause the seconds hand to manually hack until you release the crown from your fingertips. Most of the Swiss 6497's I've owned have functioned in this manner, as well as my Omega SM300 and my MBW's fitted with 2846's.

I suspect only Rolex knows the exact production figures of each watch/reference. Such data would probably be difficult to calculate across all model references, especially with the haphazard serial numbering that Rolex tends to use. I'm quite certain that not even the 'experts' such as dowling and kamal would know such figures...

Interesting... And good to know

Aaron- Does this watch have a screw down crown? What position are you pulling the crown out to? Is it the winding or time setting position? It almost sounds as though the stem is too long... But this would be the case if the crown was a screw down. I've had a couple of watches that exhibited this problem- Runs fine when the crown is simply sitting out in the winding position, but once screwed down, it binds up. Unthread the crown from the tube and it start running again. A simple matter of shortening the stem very slightly fixed the problem; just thought I'd mention it since the symptoms seemed to be similar...

Today it's my MBW 1665 frankenstein with genuine parts...

Exactly why I recommend testing everything with the CG on. Some need the lever trimmed slightly; some don't.

Pretty straight forward- Insert the crown/stem assembly into a pin vise, or clamp using some needle nose pliers on the threaded portion of the stem and simply unthread the crown. In some cases, you may want to apply some heat to the base of the crown to loosen the glue securing the crown to the threads, but it should unthread pretty easily. Next, thread on the new crown to the stem and try lining everything up in the stem tube in the case. In some cases, the base of the crown might not fit as it's too large (I don't think this is the case with Palp's new crowns- they should fit properly); in this situation, it is advised to grind out the inner diameter of the tube until the crown base does fit, but again, this is probably not going to be a problem with Tommy's new run of 2.1mm crowns. Next- Check the length of the stem; it might be too long or too short with the new crown, so trimming of the stem may be necessary (or a new stem cut to fit if the original is too short). Once everything is adjusted to preference, secure the crown to the stem using loc-tite and allow cure time. reinstall is the reverse process of crown/stem removal from the movement. Test everything with the CG installed prior to buttoning up the case, and you're set.

Outstanding projects! Both of them... Looking forward to #3, 4 & 5!

What's long, hard and full of sea men?

Usually they just fall out.

Yessir- The GMT uses the 6mm Twinlock crown/tube set while the Sub uses a 7mm Triplock crown/tube set