ubiquitous

Interesting comments about the watch that the caseback came from...

Keep them coming, folks! Some great watches... And excellent taste!!

As the original poster, I'll play along too... 1) My franken 16520 Daytona with El Primero 400. At the top of my list for accuracy in both aesthetics and function, and easily one of my favorite watches I've put together. As close to genuine as you can get without buying the real deal. 2) My DW 6263. My 2nd favorite for accuracy and aesthetics; currently getting some heart surgery Some nice genuine parts fitted, and very close to genuine. 3) My MBW 1665. My 3rd favorite, and one of my favorite daily beaters. Simple, durable, a glutton for punishment and fitted with a ton of genuine parts.

I did find it interesting, however, that he lists the dial as intended for a 6238 Pre-Daytona and a 6241; both of which were Non-Oyster models with pump pushers and Twinlocks. That being the case, I'd think that this Oyster signed dial would be more fitting for a 6263/5...

Just as the subject states; what are your top 3 favorite rep watches in your collection, and why? What makes them special to you? Quality? Function? Aesthetics? Sentimental value?

Clive- I don't have one of these... But I love the caseback! I may have to pick one up as a novelty...

Difficult to say, really. Authentications must be done using a loupe to inspect the printing as well as the lume for the tell tale indications of age to really authenticate as original. To my eye, the dial looks good, all the fonts line up with where they're supposed to, except the the T SWISS T, which seems a little squished between the minute track and the 6:00 subdial. I have, however, seen a few examples where this is also evident on some genuine watches owned by well educated collectors, so this is probably not an issue. The coronet looks legit, and overall the dial looks correct.

For those of you unfamiliar with MBW's... How to identify a vintage MBW 1680 and 1665. Original post is here.... With all the talk of MBW's vintage Rolex models, I thought I'd do a small little write up on two popular models (the 1680 and 1665) to outline a few key tell-all characteristics on how to identify a genuine MBW from the others. Starting with an MBW 1680 Red Submariner: Here are the first key characterisctics- s/n L341455: And the Ref. number. Note the purposely mispelled 'POLEX': Now we move on to the actual construction of the bezel assembly. The MBW's bezels are put together just like genuine: *Retaining ring *Bezel washer *Bezel ring *Bezel insert Retaining ring, which holds the crystal down, and keeps things water tight via a gasket underneath the seated lip: The bezel washer, which allows the bezel ring to rotate bi-directionally, but allows enough tension to keep the bezel ring to spin freely: The bezel ring itself: And the bezel insert installed (in this case, a genuine insert): And, of course, one other characteristic- Genuine Rolex parts fit, no muss, no fuss. Genuine Tropic127: And, as mentioned above, the genuine vintage inserts simply snap right in And now the 1665 White Sea-Dweller: The s/n- 5790134 (The DRSD uses s/n 5790358): This time, the Ref is simply stamped 'REGISTERED DESIGN': Bezel assembly is the same as the MBW 1680 and Genuine, except the profile is stepped, and not flat like the 1680's: *Retaining ring *Bezel washer *Bezel ring *Bezel insert Profile is stepped, and thicker. Like the 1680, the retaining ring has a gasket under the seated base: Bezel washer: Bezel ring. Much thicker than the Sub (same profile as genuine): Genuine insert snapped in: Genuine Tropic39 installed (non-superdome): Genuine crown/tube and springbars:

Typically, on the rivets the end link is fixed to the bracelet... 71 or 71H end links should be fitted with the 7205.

Well, the problem with the mod-7750 Daytonas with seconds at 6:00 is the dimensions of the case. It's wayyyy too thick, and for a reason- There has to be enough room to fit that mod 7750 with the extra bridges for the gears. The genuine 116520 is very thin; even thinner than the 16520 that it supercedes (by a fraction of a mm). The bezel, and rehaut should be quite a bit thinner as well- The bezel is very flat. I owned roughly 5 or so of these 7750 Daytos with the seconds at 6:00; and now the only modern Daytona I own is my franken-built El Primero 16520, as it's the only way I could obtain a reliable, trustworthy, and correct Daytona. Sure it cost significantly more... But the result is the closest thing to genuine as you can get without buying the real deal...

I don't know, Admin. I think rectangular folding clasp is correct... Perhaps there are variations with either the rectangular or the AP shaped clasp blades?

Since there's no indication of 'replica' in the payment description, I just paid via PP...

Excellent! Thanks, guys!

Okay... In all seriousness... The only real complications I have are chronographs- Most of my watches are simple time and date only- And I have a good number of time only, no date watches too... Those are, at least, amongst my favorites...

Just need it to tell me the time. In 24 different time zones at once Forgot to mention... It must have an erotic animated complication as well

Is there any indication of 'Replica' in the payment for the donation? That's ultimately what I am trying to avoid...

Think you have to change out the escapement to achieve that.

Either should be fine. As long as it's a 7205 with 71 end links.

If there were a way to donate without using Paypal... I would.

Expensive... Yes. But when you're dealing with genuine vintage Rolex parts, nothng is cheap. Remember, we're all contending with collectors of genuine vintage Rolex watches for parts, and these folks, who are willing to spend $25k for a DRSD 1665 are also going to be buying up parts to stash away since the US RSC's are starting to refuse service on these oldies. Supply vs. demand, and the top dollar talks. So... Why mod an MBW with genuine parts? Well... for some of us, it's what makes it fun. I myself do it as a hobby- I like to make the most accurate reps I can, not because I flip them or try and fool anyone with them. It's simply my hobby that I derive enjoyment from. Want to know how to make your watch as accurate as possible with regards to genuine? Use genuine parts! Doing these mods isn't something that everyone can agree on; some people see it as a waste of time and money, but for me, I'll take quality over quantity any day. Besides... No one's holding a gun to anyone's head forcing them to do mods

Indeed, Mr. Sherrington. One of these days... I will work the CG's a bit

I just go through Ziggy. He's experienced and knowledgable with plenty of movements of all types, and is quite familiar with the Asian 7750's. I certainly don't mind paying for Ziggy's expetise; for one, there's no need to have to tell him to be cautious of any movement caveats as he's already aware of the things to watch out for. it's just peace of mind for me, and his prices are already excellent.

Yes... Clockwise until you encounter resistance and cannot wind anymore

faonmyea = fartonmyear? Isn't this the same guy who was asking for advice and assistance with selling a rep as a gen on the old RWG?

Today... The franken as usual...