ubiquitous

Fake. 1) Poor proportions 2) Bad crown/pushers and the biggest giveaway of all.... Day/Date subdials

I hadn't really set any budget for my project when I started, but all said and done the finished watch cost around $2600.00. The biggest factor for me was getting the 31j movement; had many an opportunity to get the 17j model, but kept holding out for the newer 31j. Finally, my patience was awarded with a brand new factory fresh 31j El Primero 400 (for an Ebel 1911) priced very reasonably at $800. I was about ready to shell out almost 2x that price for a complete watch to scavenge the movement from...

Hmmmm... Nice flat bezel and shallow rehaut. Looks great in my opinion. Dial could be a little better, but my first draw of attention was to the hard parts- The dial is easily replaced.

Not too sure what the base watch will be just yet. A lot of the rep 1675's won't work too well with genuine parts like the dial and crystal, as they are based off of a 1680 rep case; the 1675 dial is much larger, and hence needs the proper case for the dial to fit. Also, the profile of the case is important as well, as the 1675 is quite thin in comparison to the Sub. As for the transitional dial... I've not seen a 1675 with a DATE signed dial. However, I have seen some 16750's with the quickset and matte dials signed DATE

I'm collecting parts for such a project now... Not many good 1675's out there... So, the obvious choice is to build one

Alternating between my 16520 franken... And giving my 16610 franken a chance as well. I'm still trying to warm up to the Sub. Perhaps when my replacement hands arrive I'll feel a little differently about it...

I didn't even know he was still around? Considering the last fiasco... Let's hope he's not back in biz Thanks, JJ. Mine didn't turn out too bad, I suppose, for something that was kinda thrown together as a fluke

Does that mean there is not enough drama taking place on RWG? Must be time to bust open the scab to get some going then...

Aftermarket insert? Are you sure? That pearl looks genuine to me... Here's my franken 16610... Gen insert, gen crown and tube, TWG dial and bracelet...

Rob, I can't wait to get this back!! It looks GREAT! I simply cannot believe that this is the same movement! excellent work as always, my friend....

homer.simpson@springfieldpowerplant.com

Yes.... Mistakes do happen...

Arthur... You're just being modest!

The coffee colored/faded sub dial rings are an anomaly amongst certain serials (W, T etc.). These 'imperfections' were a result of the paint/varnish having an adverse effect to the sun, causing them to darken. Most of these dials were replaced by Rolex Service as an imperfection; very few remain with their original dials unchanged (hence making them very rare). One specific example that sold in the Mondani auction went for 44,000 CHF. The T SWISS MADE T dial is correct (1996 production with a T serial). Rolex didn't swith to Luminova until I believe the U or A serial range. Hard to say. The seller is well known and with a good reputation; I don't think he'd go out of his way to fake a dial. And, it's not the first time something like this has happened with regards to a flaw getting past Rolex QC either...

I don't recall where I found that pic... But I want one!

There's just no pleasing some people. Do yourself a favor and just buy a genuine.

Pugs... I present to you, the perfect companion to your watch...

Advertised as all original by a well known and credible collector... ...for $20k US...

Sweet Carrera! I'm going to have to either build one, or pony up and buy one. I love it!

Warm, but not quite... Keep looking...

Look closely...

Okay... first, let me say that I love davidsen's stuff! He is a true asset to the community, and his products are very unique, and very custom. As mentioned- He produces these items on his own using his resources. Good stuff in my book... Anyways... The font issue that is mentioned is one that I noticed as well- Here is an example of not only the printed font of a Pre-V and Pre-A dial, but also some images of the markers/indicies as well... 1st, here is a comparison shot of the Pre-V style font vs. the Richemont style font post acquisition: Note that there is a bit of a serif on the old Pre-V style... The Pre-V and Pre-A's have the indicies a little bit more squared on the edges.. All pics above are 'borrowed' from another site. There are some variations with the way the lume is filled in on the markers with regards to Pre-A vs. Pre-V. Pre-A is filled in more up to the edges; Pre-V is filled in less with more of the edge exposed. Anyhow... No knock on david's items... I still think they're great, and such a service is not commonly found. Especially considering that he is always taking the forum's advice to improve his products.

retep covered all the points of concern on the checklist. The watch does look like it's been restored to like new condition using new or new old stock parts. A couple of things to look for- Indicators of updated parts etc. (which initially made me suspect my watch as original and confirmed with Omega): -Is the crown screwdown? If it's not... It's original. Mine is not screw down, and the profile of the crown is the shorter one that was initially issued with the watch as original. -If you look closely at the crystal, it should be signed right in the center with an Omega Ω character. -There are a few other indications of wear, age, etc. that just cannot be erased from the watch as well... Unless it's been replaced. Anyhow... Aside from those items, I don't really know much more about these. Arthur (Panerai153) would most likely know more about it than I

C'mon MD, You know you can't make a post like this without PICS!