ubiquitous

Thanks, Puggy and BT! I'll keep working at it.

Hmmmm... Am I getting better?

I still have no idea what you did... Gamma this... Saturation that... Being a newb to Photoshop, all this stuff is like a foreign language to me. I played around with some of the stuff, but have no clue as to what to do.

A before and after of Pug's work...

Perhaps? Afterall... I wonder how one would explain the IWC Ingenieur?

Wholeheartedly agree Neil. It's that attention to detail that makes all the difference. I'm still hopefull for a decent quality Royal Oak Chronograph...

So, what exactly did you do to achieve that result Pugs?

At least all is fair now

Well, it's still Sunday night here; have about an hour and a half before Monday morning rolls around, but I thought I'd kick this one off for By-Tor on his behalf. Here's what I'll be starting my week off with- My franken Daytona with El Primero 400 movement and a Doubleshot to wake me up for work. Who knows... Maybe I'll bring my franken MBW 1665 in on my right wrist as well to keep my arms balanced...

Oh, so, like a 1660, 16613, 16618, 16600, etc.? And the Omega 2201.50.00? Never heard of those before...

Priced about $395.00 too much! Think I saw some of those in a vending machine the other day Seriously... An exposed balance does not a tourbillon make!

What is this "rolex" that you speak of? I've never heard of those before?

Indeed. Have a look here: Big Bang discussion.

2nd that.

And, thanks for the kind words BT!! The pics come out ok considering the camera that I use (old Canon Powershot A70)...

I wish I could get rid of that grainy pixelation in the black/dark tones.

I've used old PAM crystals before (same philosophy)...

I don't know which is better- The joke or your avatar!

Agree 100%. The Oyster is such a classic, versatile design with great adjustment for size. Most other watches with metal bracelets that I've tried (both rep and gen) are either too loose or too tight, even with half links. With an Oyster, I can dial it in to be just right, thanks to the clasp...

Definitely! Not as easy as it sounds... Quite honestly, there isn't much that one can hide from an angled shot; only thing that I can think of is date magnification. In most cases, alignment of date font and hand length can be determined from dealer pics; they do tend to take pics of the same watch from more than one angle

If all out quality is important, you may want to look for a pre-owned genuine. I've seen them sell for anywhere between $1100 and $1300...

That would work! You want the 6mm Twinlock (which is what's featured in that auction).

Depends on which one you're starting with. Some need more than others. However, as a general list of mods I would do... -Genuine dial -Genuine bezel -Genuine Twinlock crown/tube -Genuine (78790/A) OR hollow link rep bracelet/clasp Then, depending on which version you have, it may be a good idea to address the movement (in this case, I'd suggest a 2836 GMT mod with the correct hand stack), and the correct GMT hand (corret in terms of length and arrow shape). The genuine dial typically runs $250-ish; the bezel runs around the same (at least what my supplier has quoted me). Crown/tube combos can be found on eBay. I recommend fitting genuine parts where possible because gen parts simply look and feel the part (hence resulting in a better rep). All in all, it could be a pricey venture, but will no doubt come in costing less than a gen

Nice project with a very cool movement. Enjoy it!

Doubt it.