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madmex

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Everything posted by madmex

  1. I am waiting for blue to arrive. Khashayar, as Danza1812 suggested earlier, you could put a gen hand on there. The length is different but it will still look great and be gen.
  2. I've never had an issue with him in the past but will be sure to report if there is one.
  3. The dial and hands are very delicate. They should never be touched without finger protection or hard or sharp materials. Removing the crown stem is also delicate, because you could upset the keyless works and then you have to take the dial and calendar mechanism to fix it. You should practice with an inexpensive or damaged watch if you don't have experience. But here are the instructions (At your own risk!) You would have to look for a lume that has a good proven record from some of the modders or watchmakers here. Steps: remove winding stem (insert a watchmaker screwdriver that barely fits into the slot for ETA 2824--do not push in with a pin or it can go too far and will upset the keyless works--spring falls out of place) de-case the movement (remove the screws and then tabs that secure the movement to case) remove the hands with a good hand remover, MUST PROTECT THE DIAL so that NOTHING comes in contact with it... then put the hands in rodico (a type of putty for watchmakers) backside up, and apply luminous material carefully so as to not put too much and make the hand too fat or it will have issues with clearance. then after it dries, you have to put the crown back in by very gently pressing the same slot on the back to remove stem, while you wiggle the stem in place--this is one of the most challenging parts or you will have to take the dial off. advance the hours in time-setting position until the date goes to midnight and it changes... stop put the hands on... careful that they are set gently in place--use a hand setting tool that is made from nylon or another soft material--metal tweezers will leave scratches and marks be sure that the hands can cycle around the dial freely with good precise clearance between them (so they don't rub on the dial, or against each other) remove winding stem again (step1) put the movement in place... get an air blower to gently blow under the crystal to be sure there isn't dust or lint trapped in the case/glass put the tabs and screws that hold the movement in the case put the winding stem back in (VERY VERY careful or you have to remove everything again, including dial and calendar wheel) lubricate the O-ring gasket with special silicone lubricant for gaskets close the case--I recommend sticky ball so there's no scratches, or a proper balanced case opener (one slip and you will have NASTY scratches on the caseback) So all in all I suggest leaving the mods to an experienced watchmaker or someone experienced and meticulous! Timezone has a watchmaking course online as well.
  4. The hands look similar to the old SMP, but they are actually different in length. I would think the best option is to have them relumed if the lume is an issue.
  5. joshua. I haven't purchased in a while from him but have always had good experience in the past.
  6. Danza1812, I completely noticed the slightly left alignment of my bezel insert. I want to take it off and align it properly, but the case tolerances are very small and I couldn't get a satisfactory clearance to attempt to remove the bezel. I've seen some of the Rollie BP pearls have glue smudged under them--so I'm sure it's possible to modify them, albeit VERY carefully with soft wood or plastic tools. The pearl is very different from my version to k's. It seems it's a work in progress for them. I submitted my observation about the caseback to Andrew and he relayed it to the maker but who knows if they'll do it or when (when stocks run low and they go for a second batch so as to not waste parts?). Fact is the quality is high overall and the watch deserves the extra effort on the caseback. N will probably get it right in an attempt to compete and show off.
  7. I like khashayar's flat glossy black dial a lot. I do prefer it to the busier 007 007 007 007 pattern although it is only seen when the light strikes it a certain way as to reflect off the flat black dial as the 007 is painted in raised glossy black. It is somewhat subdued... but it's there if you know to look for it. I would've gone for the blue but neither the black or the blue were available (and I had no idea they were on the way!). I purchased it because I thought I didn't want to miss out on such a decent rep and it's possibly my 1st BP factory watch. (not sure who made my awesome Connie) I do love watching the bullet rotate though. I think a better 007 would have only had the back bullet and a flat black dial. The 50 in red is fine too.
  8. Khashayar, was your PO from the BP maker? I've seen some pics of another maker that is too light, almost electric blue. I was told BP has a PO that they used for 1:1 construction and also would be using it to match the blue on the SMP. Let's hope it's good As far as water resistance, I've taken mine apart (007 2892) and the gasket used is very good. I put a special silicone lubricant for gaskets on it, to be sure there's a good seal. I've showered with mine a few times. I didn't bother to check the He valve to see if it actually reaches the inside of the case. I hope it is purely cosmetic and it doesn't. In the past, others have epoxied the He valve orifice from the inside. Crowns look good quality and solid. The only thing you can't count on is that the gaskets are "lubed" or that they are in the groove and didn't catch and get pinched when screwed-in. Sloppy happens!
  9. That was probably me! I posted on the "New Seamaster 300 m PRO" about this earlier. Here is the gen below The waves are made to look like "waves in the sand." They have a raised profile like this ^ and a coarse blasted texture to them. I agree completely that yours (and my blue one when it arrives hopefully next week) is stunning though. If the Noob comes out with a version in a few months or so, I may get that one too lol. I've had a fascination with the blue SMP since the 2531.80.... so I'm ooing and aahing at this one. I'm wearing my BP 007 now. I can say that the pearl on mine is quite different... it is more recessed and flat. Yours is rounded on the edges like the gen, and significantly taller than mine.
  10. Hey I just noticed there's a long thread about the gen bezel over at the Omega forum, watch u seek from Nov 5, 2012. Seems the OP had some scratches on the bezel surround, and went at it with a scotch brite pad. Turns out he didn't notice he was also rubbing the ceramic bezel... and the metallic paint on the top corner of the number 30 came off! Turns out he can still see that it is etched. So.....indeed these are made as close to the real deal. However, I think these bp bezels are possibly deeper engraved, hence less likely for the metallic paint to rub off. The silver paint on the gen completely fills the engraving void, virtually flush (looking like it's painted, instead of engraved--yet it is BOTH). So in summary it is possible these are "better" bezels in terms of design (harder to go deep enough to remove the paint with a sharp object/or rub over time), probably by chance not deliberately. I have said before that I think this model began with a gen 007 50 years that they used to tear down and get the dimensions/shapes/colors etc. They used a blue PO Ti to get the blue color of the dial and bezel (how good is the BP Blue Ti PO?--I haven't read up on it). So this means... they took their artistic license on the back. It looks really nice, but it doesn't look like the gen. Gen.... the waves, remind me of the appearance of sand at a sand trap that has been raked. The texture is not simply brushed, it appears blasted to look like sand. The rep simply has shiny bars. It is still a beautiful caseback, but as far as 1:1 it is not.
  11. I was told that the color is based on the gen blue PO they purchased to do the 1:1 Titanium. I ordered mine and will see when it arrives.
  12. khashayar's fantastic photos and review reminded me how nice of a rep this is and I pulled the trigger on the blue lol despite resisting. I may be thinning the collection to make room in the watchbox :-P
  13. Beautiful watch, pictures, and review. It looks stunning. Thanks for sharing!
  14. Since I started the fascination with Swiss watches a decade ago, I have owned a few, but never a Constellation. I would try on the blue and the silver SS models, and I never really felt a connection. I do like exhibition backs and when I saw the 38mm chronometer I became a fan, but didn't act on purchasing one. A couple of months ago I decided I wanted one, and was told they no longer had the Stellita movement, as the prices sky-rocketed! I tried a few TDs and only Trusty said he could still get one. I went ahead... the first QC pics showed a 35mm that was not at all the same watch... fortunately I noticed the issues and was told to wait for new ones. When the new ones came through... I was impressed. It was the correct one! What do I like about it? AR on both sides--invisible crystal sometimes beautiful special sunburst pattern, originating at the applique star above the 6 marker very well detailed and beautifully finished hands (brushed center, sharp edges, bevelled seconds hand) and dial and markers 1:1 case shape and bracelet finishing a very beautifully finished brand new Swiss Stellita SW-200-1 a decorated movement spacer ring very accurate and precise excellent finishing... amazing when compared to gen... amazing very high quality overall... This is the Stellita SW-200-1. This is the decoration and quality.... did they have to go this far? no. But they did. So it dawned on me. This is a beautiful and well-crafted watch, rep or not. It shows that some makers choose to excel with quality. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery--and that's exactly what this is. They could've cut so many corners... but they didn't. I wish all my reps were THIS good and THIS honest lol.
  15. looks very good. Now who is getting a blue one?!
  16. Movement was sold as Swiss 2824. I am not sure if it is a clone or not but it looks like a new gold plated eta. I will open and snap pics. It's high beat 28,800. What would you do to it? Continue modding? It's a nice thought if it sings to you. I have very mixed feelings about it. Lol
  17. It's a strap from the 'bay. I paid around $20-30 for it. It has a big buckle that I haven't taken pics of.
  18. This is my first IWC I will also take some pics with a tan Louisiana alligator strap sometime in the future... but I REALLY like this mesh bracelet on the watch. I enjoy the domed retro shaped crystal, the big sharp dauphine hands, the blue (love blue watches)... and the big masculine case. Not too bad for my smallish wrist! Cheers.
  19. being obsessed with the submariner for a while, and liking the no-date versions... I saw the "cartel" had these vintage subs. I decided to take a stab at em. I got this one from Trusty or PC a few years ago (oops can't remember, but it was one of the two). I started by removing some text above Submariner, and then using a matte paint on the dial. I then purchased a Clark's crystal which had the sharper edges that I like (vs the big bubble which I was really unfamiliar with). I drilled the lug holes, fit gen spec bars in there... I redid the crown guards which were hideous.. and tried to age the case a little bit. I intended to refinish it to look like a serviced sub, not a beat up one. I intended to purchase a gen or a better crown, because it is an eyesore, but I think I give up lol. The end-links I purchased on the 'bay as well, but they just didn't come together like I expected them to they are loose and wobble and ugh... I made a little mod to the molehill bezel insert triangle luminous dot... intending to purchase one of the nice replacement ones that look gen.... Is it good? is it so so? is it bad? I've seen some amazing super high $$ frankens here, this one was built on a budget and it got too tedious and expensive and I'm not sure I like it to wear it. behold.... the watch of my dreams (more like an ongoing nightmare).... I'm too much of a perfectionist and I don't see this project going anywhere lol... is that normal?! or is time to ditch at sea? Any similar experiences, comments, questions... welcome
  20. I have had a love affair with the submariner and the Tudor equivalent for well over a decade. I remember going to ADs and trying on the blue Tudor sub equipped with a sapphire crystal. I REALLY liked that watch. I had a friend in Jr. High with a blue submariner.... I later found out it was a "fantasy model." I particularly like the no-date sub (the classic 14060 and 14060M) as they resemble the 5513 (that's another post). So when I saw this new blue sub I had to purchase it to see what it was all about. I really like the blue. I have seen it at the AD and I think they did a pretty good job. The rehaut is not too conical as I've seen some non N factory models. This one is a Noob factory. The issue with it, was it had the wrong FAT hour and seconds hand (which I believe is accurate for the GMT model). So I found some spares in my watch parts bin and thus the seconds hand is correct in dimensions and look now, and the hour hand is too. The issue was the seconds hand was for a swiss TC sub 2824 (which I also own) and this blue purchased this one with the new asia 2824 (I find them very well built and quite reliable and precise), so I had to put a bit of Rodico to wedge it in until I can find a high quality hand set that will have the look. The issue is the luminosity of the minute and seconds hand is green vs the dial and minute hand but that's not really noticeable unless I'm in the dark. I also added a TC DWO to it. So modded, here it is... for your critique/opinions of the mod are welcome. '
  21. To answer the crown/stem question... I did have an issue. I should point out that I ordered the Asia2892 clone, not the swiss 2824. The issue I had... was that the stem was too long and it was taking a LOT of pressure to push the crown in and screw it back in. I saw this becoming a problem possibly ruining the treads prematurely, so I opened her up, took the setting stem off, put it on a vise, and the pin broke lol. Fortunately genuine 2892A2 stems are available on eBay and I ordered a new one (wore my vintage Ingy Laureus on a mesh strap, and my superrep Connie in the meantime). A week later I cut the stem 1 mm short of where it was, and it went back in without issues and without undue force. As far as the crown and tube itself, I didn't examine them closely but they feel SOLID and well built. The only flaws on my watch are the insert is slightly off (the way they glued it is not centered perfectly), the caseback is about 1 mm too thick for the slim 2892 bullet rotor, and the omega symbol is not perfectly level with the OMEGA applique. The watch looks VERY well built, feels well built, I don't think I have any AR on the outside (seems others do, from the pics I've seen), and the 2892 runs very well, and is very precise. All in all I love the watch--I definitely want the blue but will wait for others' reviews. Blue would've been my first choice but I had no idea it was coming lol. The non exhibition caseback in the black/blue is truly an artist's impression of the real one, which it appears they saw on a picture because it is waaaaaaaay off. The bezel is not a huge deal to me, but I do believe the gen looks the same until you examine it up close. I think there's a filler material (clear silica?) that appears to be smoothly baked with the rest of the bezel hence the confusion on engraved vs painted. it is BOTH lol.
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