horologist

Hello to all, I have just pulled out an eta 2824 from a cross threaded Tissot and was planning on putting into my submariner purchased from a collector of this site. I noticed that the original datewheel is much thinner on the eta mvt than ones in the submariners with eta mvts already in them. Is it a straigtht forward job to replace the datewheel with the wider datewheel or does there need to be some modifying to the mvt to accomodate it as it is wider? I am no watchmaker, so please excuse my ignorance on this, Thanks in advance for your help

A BIG THANK YOU to all that have replied to my request. Finally I have lead to having it done and all thanks to this wonderful group which I am so privileged to belong to. GREAT forum with Great people!!!!.

Hi, I have been trying to replace a dial for a blue dialed submariner replica (which is only an average replica with a base eta mvt) but have had no luck in any of the sales corner as they are more in the league of MBW or ones you find on Yukki. It might be cheaper to buy a new replica watch but was wondering if anyone could direct me to where I could possibly find one or if anyone has upgraded their replica to something more fancy and no longer has use for their cheaper dial?

Hello fellow enthusiasts, I happily have a blue dialled sub purchased many moons ago from someone that went by the name Aspire/Paul from information that was received on this forum. I have been very pleased with it as it has been great and it is special because it was the first rep I purchased. I had it serviced by a watchmaker that I knew and although it runs next to perfect, I am unhappy aesthetically as it now has scratches around the dial edges, the original wide datewheel has been replaced by the normal eta 2836 datewheel (even though he returned me the wide one) and it now fogs up when I go for my morning jog (probably could not get original seals being not even good for washing hands with) As a result, I have not worn it since as it doesn’t give me any satisfaction and I did pay good money for the service. The watchmaker cannot be blamed as he was not keen on working on a replica for obvious reasons My question is; (i) Is it possible to get a replacement dial and from where? (ii) Is it a simple situation to replace the original wide datewheel back onto the mvt by just simply removing the thin one and glueing it back? (iii) What can be done to get the watch water resistant again so that I can at least not have to worry about when placing my hand in the bucket while washing the car or even showering with it like I once did, knowing that it could never truly be good for swimming in deep water? Any positive suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated as I have always been happy with this forums wonderful support. I am in Australia but am happy to send timepiece abroad if a feasible solution can be found With thanks

Hi folks, I have a blue submariner given to me as a gift from a deceased family member which I believe was purchased from Aspire ( a collector that no longer exists which she found on these forum ). I have three other good pieces which were obtained from sources found on these forums, however, that blue sub will always be special to me and it has been a great beater with accurate time being on my wrist every day . Recently, I had it seviced from a semi retired watchmaker who my dad has known for many years and although he got it running perectly again as it always has (eta 2836 mvt), I am not impressed with the fact that he replaced the datewheel with the thinner original ones that come with those eta mvts found in most other brands. It stands out with a huge cavity in the date slot. The other thing is that the dial is peeling around the edges and this did not happen in all the time I have had it. Worse still it fogs up under the glass when I sweat. I know he meant well and his main idea was to get it going, so I do not want to cause a rif between my dad and him as they are old friends. However, I am not happy with the outcome. Yes, the old story that it is a knock off etc, but this was no ordinary replica. I would at least like to replace the dial and the datewheel ( which I still have) but most local watchmakers prefer not to mess up with replicas which gave me little option but to go to this old guy in the first place. Any ideas or feedback would be much appreciated. Thanks for reading to my lamenting. Regards to all

Hi to all, Some years ago I purchased a blue dialed Submariner from a guy who called himself "Paul from Apire" which has never given me an ounce of trouble having been very pleased with it as I even wore it while swimming - a good workhorse. I have a good liasion with my watchmaker who knows me quite well and has serviced many timepieces for me so I thought it was time for servicing this rep. I am not pleased that he said that the datewheel had to be replaced as it was interfering with the movement causing some problems,therefore replacing it with the original eta 2824 wheel. I mentioned to him some of the advice I found from this fourm when servicing replicas. Result is NOT pretty. Making matters worse is that although it has been pressure tested for water resistance, I am now finding that the glass steams up when I jog causing some stains to the dial which never use to happen. I know that most would say it would be more feasible to purchase another one, but it was my first replica which has semtimental value. I have other replicas but Paul impressed me by selling me a good first replica. Where can one be able to get a dial replacement as I thought I should have just replaced the movement myself and damm the service? I know that Paul no longer exists and different replicas are not easily interchangeable with parts.

Wow Wow and WOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW!!!!!!!! Now this is what I call an technical masterpiece artist at work. If I was after that model case, I would pay more for your case than a genuine one which is mass produced at Rolex because at least yours is made by hand. You could start your own business at reissuing cases for badly deteriorated ones that are no longer in stock or out of production, by duplicating ones from clients that want to have them replaced, especially the James bond Submariner. I got into the replicas when my genuine vintage bumperwind omega case was heavily pitted by corrosion and was no longer in stock to be replaced, so I had a replica case modified. Once again I applaud you and raise my top hat to you!!!!!!!

The other day,a collegue came back from holidays and showed me a submariner replica he had purchased in Sydney Australia. He had asked me to open it as he knows that I have the bergeon tool for opening the back. I noticed that the movement had been modified to resemble the real one especially with the coloured wheels and the rotor pattern but had a slightly slower beat. I looked for the eta symbol but instead found the letters "M M" stamped without any number. Has anyone ever seen a similar replica. I was surprised that even the rehaut just under the crystal was engraved with a serial number which is not found with the higher grade relicas I have recently purchased???. I am sorry that I do not have pictures to show you as it isn't my watch.

Hi, I hope that I am posting on the right section of the forum as I was wondering if anyone has ever had any experiences with www.swissreplicawatches.com.au in Melbourne Australia? I tried to search the forum archives but had no luck. They seem to be legit because of their prices as the Aussie dollar is low and also with the accessories they offer in addtion to free international shipping, but the part that worries me is that they claim that their replicas are "SWISS MADE" which would then class them as MBW's which would be way too underpriced for such prices"? They even have their replica rolex with the engraved rehaut. Any feed back would be appreciated??

I was recently informed by another enthuisiast of a site known as www.watchessell.com. I did a search here on this site but could not find anything on them. Does anyone know anything about them?

I am no where near as watch savvy as other members here who have done some great modification projects with their replicas which would label their works as work of art that should be acknowledged in an art gallery. I was searching through the reviews and could not find one which would possibly guide a newbie like myself in what to look for when trying to make modifications to convert a good rep to as close to the genuine?? . That is because I have only had replicas and never really had long term access to a genuine to analyse and make these comparisons .The only review I could find which somehow helps which mentions modifications is on the 1680 , but it seems like another language to me as there is no one to one comparison. Is there such a review on the 16610??? To me the replicas are very good to start with but those with a fine detailed eye would leave me to shame as I really have no idea as to what a genuine has and what a replica has on appearance that would require these modifications. I am not concerned with the internals. Is there a tutorial which would point out these differences. This site has been the best thing to me since the invention of sliced bread. A world of thanks for your help.

Firstly, my thanks to all those that answered to my recent thread ""Replica watch case versus the genuine made case"". It was very educational for me to read all your responses and to learn more about MBW and WM9 which draws me to the next question. On my way from work today, I stopped to see the new V series Submariner 16610 model at the AD with the etching in the top metal ring under the glass. To be honest I wasn't all that impressed, considering that some replicas that I have seen from this forum are quite good. Does MBW or any other collector make a replica which is closely indistinguishable from the genuine 16610?

Yes, I meant the bezel insert. Thanks for the tip. i will try the more permanet rubber cement/contact cement as the epoxy has not helped. Thanks again

What is WM9?

I do not wish to delude myself as I know that we get for what we pay for, but what really sets them apart, say between the watch case made for the replica Rolex watch and those made for the genuine brand watch apart from the quality control aspect of it all. Is it the seals, the strength of the glass, the way the crown tube and crown are made, the materials or even the way they are cast out from the steel? It has always pondered my mind. OK, I know that the quality of the Stainless steel in the real McCoy is 904L whereas the quality of the steel used in the replica is of a lower grade, but what really does set them apart for example; a submariner case to be 300 Meter water resistant and the replica to just shower in?

Hello to all and a Happy New Year. I have been away for three weeks and am glad to be back to my friends here on this forum. I have a submariner rep which I purchased from a collector on this forum some years ago. The black bezel ring keeps on falling off as it was originally glued. Has anyone experienced this problem and if so, what is your solution??? I certainly do not intend to lose it, as a spare would be impossible to find and the genuine would cost more than the watch is worth and would not fit anyway as it is embedded. Cheers

OK, I do not delude myself to compare any replicas with the real McCoy. The very first replica I ever bought a few years ago was from Silix which was the explorer 1. I have worn it every day non stop and it has been through a lot of punishment and has passed the test of resistance with flying colours. My watchmaker friend who I have known for years looks after me every time I have had something done. I decided to get this replica serviced as it also has acquired some sentimental value. Just before Xmas I collected it and am quite happy with it. He even said to me that the case is very good and passed the pressure test like most average brand divers watch which I guess would be about 50m. I was surprised to hear this as I thought that the replica cases were no where near as good as most other real brands. I cannot complain with this replica as it is one of the best value for money I have ever got, when considering that it even came close to those of good brands. Anyone had similar satisfactory experiences with their replica????

has anyone actually ever purchased a Cartier Santos and if so, are the screws on the case back real screws for unscrewing or are they fake??? I have one which I purchased from a site I got from this forum which is suppose to have an eta 2836 mvt and I need to have it regulated as it goes fast, but have had no luck removing the screws from case back regarless of what I do. I think this is a dud of a watch. Any help with information please. Thanks

Thanks to you Demsey, Lanikai and Freddy for your caring responses. I know what you are referring to regarding the rotor screw coming loose. I have had this experience with a genuine Tissot which had an eta 2824 mvt. I am sure that with this replica, it is not the case as the rotor winds very smoothly without any rattling noise, but when the rotor stops rotating, I can actually feel like an unwinding sound as if there seems to be an overwound very much like a yoyo on a string which seems to rotate on it's axis but doesn't seem to climb up. I felt this especially when I laid the watch with the back on the palm of my hand. I could hear a bzzzzzzzzzz sound without the rotor moving. I hope the description makes sense. Sort of, I hope??? I will take the advice of each reply in contacting the collector and will see what his reaction is.. I am confident that he is honest and that it is just one of those things that happens, but one never knows. Once again many thanks for the response.

Hello to all, I just received my Cartier with eta 2836 from a very good reputable collector I discovered from this site. As soon as I received it, I had carefully wound it by hand. After a few hours of running it has suddenly stopped and it just wont run regardless of whether I hand wind it or rapidly move my wrist. While it was running I noticed that when I moved my wrist across my ear, I could hear the rotor move smoothly but after it stopped rotating on being stationary accross my ear, I could also hear some very fine ratchet noise for some seconds. Not sure if this was a symptom of what was to happen. As I only just recieved it, I know that I can mail it to back the seller as it has a warranty, however, before I do, I wanted to know if it is feasible to do so, in case it may be a small problem which would be better resolved locally than spending money to resend to seller and having to go through the customs risks etc again?? Any suggestions with similar experiences???? Much thanks

Hello to all, I recently was informed that there is an Asian 3135 Rolex clone movement like there is an Asian clone of the ETA 2892 used in the Omega Aqua terra. I was wondering if there ever was also an Asian clone 3035 Rolex movement used in it's predecessor???? How does the clone Asian 3135 or clone Asian 3035 Rolex movement compare to the genuine in being identifiable by a professional watchmaker??? I am just curious to learn what gives it away from the real McCoy. This is a great site for collectors like me and have collected some very good timepieces thanks to this site. It has also helped me overcome the grief of a death of a family member, Many thanks, Horologist