horologist

Did you see these images on the seller's site??? It looks like the typical molestation of ignorant cherlatons that try to make a quick quid. The case tube is permanently secure as it seems to have been jammed in the case instead of being screwed in. You would be surprised as to how many professional accredited watchmakers are unaware that the rolex case tube is screwed into the case instead of your typical mainstream watch brands that have case tubes friction pressed - especially those that have never worked on a rolex. Believe it or not, I have met three of them that we're unaware of this!!!!!!! Some watchmakers also do it out of laziness to keep the cost down as they might have a press in tube that will fit the case and screw onto your crown and by the time you need it replaced it would be years later where you would not even remember who last botched it. Hopefully you can get a refund and in the worst case, I hope you did not pay too much for it, as I copped a far worse flogging than you did as I have a genuine 18k 1601 datejust that has the same problem and it is a very expensive fix,as it either needs a very big oversized case tube to be tailor made or the hole needs to be soldered in gold and then drilled to be re threaded - neither of which I am pleased with!!!! Picture 2. It appears that the tube has been torqued upwards and puckered the upper surface... its not a severe pucker but it's noticeable . The tube feels secure... would a watchmaker level this out? upload-2.jpg Yes for an astronomical cost!!!!!

Bombe cases go back even before the 1960's. I had a gold rolex with these lugs from 1953. It was a common design omega also used. You will notice it on one of their speed master models

Congratulations!!! a great piece of work!! all genuine parts. = genuine timepiece it may not be exactly the explorer model issued by rolex but I would consider it a special edition genuine rolex rarer than most mil subs!! !ha! the real giveaway evident for me that it is not a 1016 is that your case has a back lip where the case back meets rhe mid case wheras the explorer 1016 does not. Too bad that if it were possible to grind it off and re thread the case threads at the same level so that it would be flush with the case back!! otherwise I would be overjoyed with this. enjoy in good health!!!!

Many thanks!!! very eloquent and detailed in giving me the green light of confidence!!! BTW not sure who ST is, but I am aware who WSO is???

One of the problems is that many sellers don't know what they are selling. Some will say it will fit a 36mm case and will also mention to fit a 1603, 16200 etc where the crystal is not the same for both such as one being sapphire and the other being acrylic. worse still is that the inside measurement is often given as 30.0 mm , 30..3 and 30.5 mm by different sellers? So I. wonder which is the correct one???

I have been looking for a SMOOTH bezel to put on a jmb replica Datejust case which I am of the understanding would also accommodate a genuine one. I am not fussed about getting a genuine one or if contours is not exactly like the genuine look- just want one to do its purpose. In searching on ebay I find that they all give me inconsistent measurements. I don't want to buy one with wrong measurements and end up not using it or worse still crack my crystal when pressing it in the case. I already had a bad experience with one wholesaler moronically selling me a wrong bezel for a TAG. Any advice about what to look for or what really matters when buying one to fit would be much appreciated with many thanks in advance.

Wow !! Really ?? I am going crazy to find an economy smooth bezel for around that price to swap over a fluted bezel on a 16200 case I bought from jmb. I am in Australia and our currency is dropping at 1000 miles an hour making everything twice as expensive where I will soon have to drop out from this hobby at this rate. You wouldn't have a spare one to sell me or swap with my fluted one?? I checked his site but he only had bezels to cater diamonds. Was it for a silix case or a standard 16200 as I know that silix cases are slightly smaller? You are right, he has great stuff at reasonable prices and is always very Helpful!!

Only confirms my original suspicion. The worst I ever recall happening on a norther exact mechanism is a damaged stem There wouldn't be any watch repairers left in my country even to change batteries. It wouldn't stop just with the watch industry but also with many other shonks that are licensed to scam us that are classed as tradesmen here. In my Town it is the other way around - they turn quality working products into junk very easily! One of the reasons I only invested into a replica from the mainstream collectors such as sillix etc. i was changing a crown tube for someone that had a jackjo DSV2 and I could not fit in any of the typical case clamps that would fit into the mainstream cases including the case clamps that came with the eta movement from ofrei. No matter what I did, the movement just kept circling in the case. I ended up making one from a battery holder from a junk quartz watch after fiddling and filing for almost 3 days.

Rolexman and genTle, thank you for your comments. I appreciate both your point of view. Much appreciated!!!! I do not disagree with you Rolexman. The only modification on my replica is that glued dwo which otherwise is a fairly standard watch without any fancy modding. As genTle implied, a bit of intuition is what one expects from a professional. In my trade we also do not stick to the script and improvise when the non text book style problem occurs. However, the moral to the subject is that I just wished he had been as open and clear as I had with him crossing every t and dotting every i. As as you said genTle, if you claim to be just a tinkler and this guy is a professional with training and many years of experience who cannot do what you are able to do makes me wonder. You were right in saying that not removing the date wheel on my first watch was not professional either. Still charging me for a full service would make me want to take this watch back without a service even if it is now in 10 pieces. I would wonder what he would really do if had no issue with the keyless works!!! Thought I had found someone local to work on it rather than to send away. A lesson learnt!!!

I had a basic gen eta replica submariner serviced in 2014 by a watchmaker that did not have a problem with working on it after I had given him plenty of warning that it was a rep with a DWO. I also printed off the information on https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/144733-Removing-a-date-wheel-without-disturbing-the-overlay so that he wouldn't stuff it up and said to me that he would use his watchmaking skills to get around it. received the watch and was happy with what he did!!!! Horray!!!! A few weeks ago I purchased a seadweller from a forum member that honestly declared it the way it was and in need of a service. No problems at all as he is a gentleman!!! It has a BK DWO and looks nice. Nothing special but it is a good beater. Took it into the same watchmaker who I was happy with my last service and I explained the situation. No worries he said!!! This morning I received a call from him and advised me that he cannot guarantee me that the date could be seen properly if he goes ahead with the service as the date wheel has been bastardised to be different and will need to replace it with a normal date wheel. I then asked him how he serviced my last one and he replied that he worked from underneath without taking the date wheel out. With this other one it may have a damaged set lever or yoke and the date wheel needs to come out as it has serious keyless works problems which I did not recall upon receiving the watch. I almost fainted when I heard this. I reminded him of the printed information that I had given him the previous year. He said that it was unprofessional of using backyard lay men's tactics instead of what a professional watchmaker is trained to do. worse still is that he has already removed my dial and several parts from it and said that if he is not going to go ahead with his terms, he is retuning me the watch in pieces as is. My question would be to members of this forum, is if this is what one expects from what a professional watchmaker is trained to do-especially after I had put my position clear with him which I feel almost blackmailed in what I tried to avoid in the first place??? Very disappointing to say the least

Does anyone recommend any product or coating to use over my dial that has some surface scratches caused by the second hand falling off?? They are just surface scratches over the gloss which are easily visible but not deep enough to remove the black paint. I recall seeing a post about someone using a water based varnish or some fine lacquer to give a semi gloss finish that gave a uniform film disguising the surface scratches that look every good. Not sure whether it was in this forum or somewhere else?? Sorry I am unable to take photos as my daughter dropped it at the swimming pool. Old saying - When it rains it pours!!!! Thanks for any imput

Hello to all, I have recently read that it is safer to put stem in time setting position ( hack position) when one needs to remove the stem out from movement. my question is; when putting it back into movement, does it go back in the same way as if it were removed from say; the date set position or any other position ?. I have always removed it from a non hack position in the past until recently when the yoke went out of place and I had to take into the watchmaker to put it back in place?? In the past when removing it from the winding position (not the recommended way as I painfully found out) it went in smoothly and clicked in automatically.

Is a dial spacer that separates dial from movement glued to the dial or movement??? thanks in advance!!!!

thanks --- which page in the flickr photos as-there are some 400 + pages? great idea!!!!! Thanks!!!!!

Hello to all, thanks to all those for your advice on buying a 2836 instead of a 2824 to adhere a date wheel overlay in a previous topic. Much appreciated!!!!. I just purchased a decent 2836 and would like to adhere the date wheel overlay so any advice on what is the best recommended way of putting one on would be much appreciated, especially type of glue and levelling it etc. Seems like a fairly simple procedure, but I leave no stone unturned in avoiding any disappointments with the results. It wasn't easy locating one to begin with. Would also appreciate any advice regarding when putting on dial spacer on the do's and don'ts? many thanks in advance!!!!!

Thank you all above for your responses!! Very helpful to say the least! Saved me from making a costly mistake!!

many thanks!!!! would the dial spacer that comes with the new movement work........or will I need a different sized spacer????

I have a water damaged replica submariner which has a rusted mvt and would like to replace the mvt. It has a eta 2836-2 mvt. I also have a spare dial and date wheel overlay, but am not sure if it is recommended to get a 2836-2 or a 2824-2 so that I can fit the date wheel overlay without any hidden problems?? I heard rumors that the 2836 Is less problems for this than the eta 2824 but don't really know why. I am very ignorant about this and would appreciate any feedback to which direction I should go??? many thanks in advance

I have a water damaged replica submariner which has a rusted mvt and would like to replace the mvt. It has a eta 2836-2 mvt. I also have a spare dial and date wheel overlay, but am not sure if it is recommended to get a 2836-2 or a 2824-2 so that I can fit the date wheel overlay without any hidden problems?? I heard rumors that the 2836 Is less problems for this than the eta 2824 but don't really know why. I am very ignorant about this and would appreciate any feedback to which direction I should go??? many thanks in advance

I recently purchased a eta 2836 with date wheel overlay on it and I also purchased a dial from ephyr some time ago. I have never pulled apart a replica submariner and was wondering if I also have to buy a dial spacer before I mount the dial onto the movement.??Any input would' be much appreciated with many thanks!!

Does anyone know where to get generic crystal gaskets for the Silix range Submariner rolex? My understanding is that replicas manufactured for different suppliers varied slightly in their case sizes (not exactly sure if this is fact?). The watch supply house that i deal with stock by model number ( obviously for genuine makes of watches) and also sell the generic versions, which doesn't help as I am dealing with a replica. If anyone has ever replaced more than one crystal gasket, what variations are there in sizes for different submariners from different suppliers? any feedback would be greatly appreciated with thanks!!!!

Hello to all, I was wondering if anyone knows of or where there is any literature or tutorial on how to regulate the time on the eta 2834/2836/2824 movements where the automatic bridge (I think?) needs to be removed?? What a pain as it was so much easier with the older eta mvts as the lever was accessable. I checked on youtube and found everything from servicing a complete genuine Rolex but nothing on this. I have seen a watchmaker do it once from his bench top but did not see exactly what he did as it was from a distance? I live in a remote town where I would have to send it away for this reguation and if not done right the first time, it would be impratical to send it several times or travel several times out of town just for this. Any help would be much appreciated with many thanks in advance,

I was wondering if anyone has seen or has a solid18k gold replica watch case made by either MBW, Phong , JAG trading or anyone else of similar high standards? Do these cases have the same spec hallmarks as the genuine cases made in Switzerland such as the dog's head or the queen? woman's head stamped on them in the lugs??? I know that many years ago, many gold cases were made somewhere in the far East that were used for Datejust movements where a lot of spare stainless steel cases ended up on the market as a result, which were offered for sale at some of the watch fairs. Has anyone ever seen one of these watch cases and are they easily distinguished from the original factory ones???? thanks in advance for your experiences!!!!!

What have I done wrong? I have a crown on the submariner case that screws onto the case nice and smooth when there is no movement in it. As soon as I place the movement in it, I push in the spring to start screwing down the crown and notice that it does not screw on the same. It feels as if it only takes one turn to screw down flush with the case When I unscrew it and do the same, it may take a couple of turns to screw down flush with the case. I am puzzled??? Is it a fault with the stem being too long or is the stem cut in a way which causes this. I don't want to strip the threads as they are so difficult to find and replace. Any suggestions or feedback is welcomed with open arms :clap2:

My eta 2836 has been losing between 5 to 10 seconds per day. With the older etas, one had the lever which you moved left and right all depending on if you wanted to gain or lose time. I noticed that with the modern eta 2836 wish bone, there is a screw with one end that is open and the other end closed. I know that each increment on the adjuster is for +/- 5 seconds. I tried to move this screw in the + direction but somehow no amount of force will turn this screw. As this is the first time I am attempting this, I don't want to cause uneccessary damage, I am wondering if this screw is meant to be turned at all, seeing that it just wont' turn Many thanks in advance!!!!