horologist

True, one can be surprised with what is available! about 10 years ago I purchased a NOS Vintage Blancpain with 37 jewels cyclotron for AUS175 on ebay! Wished I still had it!! Before the swatch group announced their new Draconian policy in its supplies to eta parts and especially with omega spares, there was not much vigilance on most old stock timepieces where some has eta movements! i found many NOS zenith automatic timepieces for approx USD200 Even longines NOS for great value? As an example there is one there now as we speak https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-LONGINES-Watch-1970s-Cal-508-DAY-DATE-AUTOMATIC-NOS-MINTY-Runs-1510/233007269413?hash=item364050c625:g:E5YAAOSwgJlbEWt8 for those still looking for an new eta 2824 movement might find it handy to purchase a NOS complete watch which is cheaper https://www.ebay.com/itm/Automatic-ETA-2824-2-CARABINIERI-Italian-Army-Mens-Swiss-Made-NOS/123462528661?hash=item1cbef0ae95:g:NwsAAOSwxudbaywB I bought a 9k gold 25 anniversary presentation omega Geneve watch in a garage sale from a deceased estate for AUS100 which appeared to never have been worn! It is not uncommon even today!

Sorry guys.!! At that price it wasn't going last as It was a steal!! You might have to put your name on a waiting list now! Maybe the next one would be a better bargain as it might even have a quartz module instead, but be prepared to pay more! Remember when buying ice you will always have tough competition from Eskimos!!!!

Ok Gentlemen, so we heard of the bargain of the year in Automatico's thread and lets get spoiled to see what more is available when it comes to value for money. At this price it is a steal!!!!! So lets get ready to rumble!!!!! Here it is this one; eBay item number: 132756314703 At AU $4,880.00 ( roughly USD3500) you get a watch with an eta 2824-2 movement which is water resistant to 300metres. This is better value than Steinhart and Sqaule, Davosa or any eta powered watches offered anywhere. Cant get better as these movements are now no longer available to independents I am thinking of putting myself on a waiting list if they sell out, so lets be quick as another opportunity like this may not come along.

Great explanation!!!! Any watchmaking student learning the typical "classical music style" course would never get this from watchmaking school and this sort of information would cost $$$$$$$$$$ ( not mentioning time) from trying it out themselves from pulling all these movements apart.

I have no idea what the TC movement holder is meant to do apart from it fitting well in a TC case with the same type of case grooves as the original or perhaps even an original rolex case. I have only seen it from pictures posted here in the past and it seems to look very similar to the plastic movement holder found on the day date eta 2834-2 ?!? Surely anyone that has a watchmakers lathe and equipment to make such pieces can easily do so if they have an original to stencil on. The other option would be to use a 3D photocopier and make one from different material if tis were an option!!!

This proves that whatever we buy from sites here or from other members is always going to be the way to go!!! I never had any regrets from whatever I bought from this forum apart from the one occasion that one item never reached me!!!! The first think I learnt in high school from the subject "marketing" just put the highest price for the biggest junk and people will queue for it like hot cakes!!! Same as the fashion industry. They tell us what to like, not ask us what we like!!!! It is all sell and no tell as there are different rules for different fools!!

As Always, great piece of information which would save a lot of people a lot of headaches and above all MONEY!!!!! I learnt the hard way. I was sold a submariner replica by a guy at work back in 2010 who picked it up from an Australian web page that later turned out to be a scam. The case was engraved 16610 with a box, an engraved rehaut with fake papers that even matched the rehaut serial number and that on the case. I must admit that it was a nice watch and quite impressive!!!. It was sold to him as having an eta but turned out to be DG movement. He really wasn't into watches but bought it for the fun of it and asked if anyone was interested in it. Along came me:- the sucker!!!!! Interestingly this case was the first I ever saw with a ceramic bezel and the matching bracelet that came with the ceramic bezel model. One day, as expected the movement stopped as is the case with these DG movements. I then tried to fit in an eta into it and I noticed it had nice case clamps and a movement spacer which was made up of two parts ( the first and only one I have ever seen) This setup allowed you the option to remove one of the parts to allow the eta movement to fit into it as it is slightly different size from the original movement. As the dial feet were for a DG movement I decided to order a new dial made for an eta as I had given up on previous horrors of dial dots, epoxy dial feet with stands, double sided tape or any other band aid treatment that caused more problems. I ordered a dial from Raffles and it did not fit in properly. I then also ordered one from Yuki and Helesnrou and again neither of them fitted into this case. I pulled the movement with it's dial from a replica I had purchased from Aspire and bang!!!!! It was the only one that worked. This dial measured 28.4mm. the 28.6 and others did not work either!!!!!. I had spent close to over $200 in dials that served no purpose to find out. If only I had known at the time. Thanks again for the info!!!!!

Timelord, The best I could find that is within your range measure is this one. These range from 28.4mm 28.5mm and 28.7mm depending on who makes them!!! PM me if this meets your needs and I will inform you of the shipping costs!!!

You could post on the wanted to buy section as I am sure that someone would have one somewhere sitting forgotten in the abyss where they would have replaced it with a more elaborate one! I recall the ones I had to be of that size as this measure was one of the first numerical measures that remained tattooed in the back of my mind!!!! They would also be a penny per dozen, as the.only major problem is postage cost would far exceed the value of the item! I will re measure what I have and if successful and you are prepared to cover the postage cost from Australia, it is yours FREE!!!!

I say that whatever makes you happy and nobody is being hurt here including yourself - then go for it! If I had to choose between starving my family and spending this kind of money on a rep or genuine or any other non priority, then we all know the answer to that one! Lets face it, these ridiculous prices for genuine vintage timepieces as well, are very irrational when one reflects that all they are is a chunk of steel fabricated into a product no more than 100grams! As for ones made of precious metals, then the subject is slightly different!! BUT as with any item that commands a high premium, it is market driven by the same old law of demand and supply! Period!!!! Coming back to the discussion of a replica, it is basically the same thing minus the quality control factor, which for me a replica made of same material is no less than a sterile brand watch with an eta mechanism, which is fancied up with having some label on the dial! A replica with a Swiss quality eta fitted with a sterile dial would be the equivalent to a low end Tissot! I therefore would only pay as much for a replica as I would for a low end Tissot! As for dressing it up by putting a dial from any other brand or trimming the case to imitate the genuine image would be additional features that should cost accordingly! This would be my limit and would be far cheaper than a months supply of cigarettes!

Thanks - especially for the part number!! Very useful information as always!!

Apart from the eta 2836-2 having also a day wheel, will a date wheel from a 2824-2 interchange with eta 2836-2? most importantly, are the outer diameter and inner diameter of datewheels the same size?? Thanks

obra de arte

Just a word of caution! the 2836-2 has the day wheel in the same planar level as the date calendar wheel, so when the day wheel is removed to allow room for the DWO, the interior edge of the overlay will be suspended higher and not rubbing against anything in the inner area of where the day wheel would originally sit. The pivot height of the seconds wheel and hands would not be an issue in both 2836-2 and 2834-2 as the were designed to allow for the extra space of the day wheels. This could mislead one to suspect that it would hold true for the 2834-2! I am not so sure!! The problem that I would foresee is that in the 2834-2 the day wheel sits above the calendar wheel plane and removal of the day wheel would not necessarily have the same cavity space as for the removal of the day wheel in the 2836-2 as described imn my first paragraph. When the day wheel is removed on the 2834-2, it may have the same setup as the date only eta which is the 2824 which is a no go as DWO would also rub against the coverlate. Someone can correct me on this, but I would check this first. I have pulled both 2836-2 & 2834-2 apart and the ebauches of both are the same as nearly all the parts are interchangeable so you can assemble a complete 2836-2 on a 2934-2 main plate using the dayewheel from the 2836-2, which is probably what is seen in the replica especially those that come from the older silix-prime and Aspire models. I know it sounds confusing but I would stick to the 2836-2 if not 100% sure! Just food for thought!

Nice find! Great price and delivery too!! Would also be good to find the 2836-2 for similar bargain price!

Great advice!!!!! I also give the thumbs up that the tutorial with the photos should be in the sticky thread!!!! In the past I also struggled to find any tutorials or any information (on watch maintenance and repairs ) on the date mechanism.

That's because you do not know what is happening in Australia. We Aussies are the laughing stock of the planet as a new movie should be made (depicting what is happening here ) more appropriately labelled "Dumb and Dumbest". At least you still have a car industry even if it is run by Marelli. We no longer have one here thanks to our politicians.

Interesting Topic!!!! I usually have these sorts of discussions with those I know locally and sometimes even with strangers while sitting in waiting room at the doctors for hours on end. Most collectible items regardless of what they may be, start off as typical items that nobody would have ever imaged to be collectibles at the time when they were just a piece of equipment or tool. These range from the every day pieces from old valve radios, Bakelite telephones and of course the wrist watch and our family car of the time are no exceptions!! I recall a time as a child when seeing most of these items dumped on the sidewalks just in front of home fences for the garbage collector to collect of for anyone needing them for spare parts. The old saying "one persons trash could be another one's treasure" As for me, it can be both nostalgia and practicality!!!! As for a 5512 or any other mechanical watch for me is no longer something that just tells the time!!!!. It is something that also tells history l!!!!! It is something that reflects an era beyond what is considered the disposable age !!!! It is also something that one can pass onto future generations as they also tell a story!!!! As for telling the time, my cellular phone is enough but I was brought up in the 1970's and 1980's where a watch was also like cuff links!! Again a combination of both nostalgia and a lifestyle trait. As for cars, the same analogy can also apply!!! We still have the first family car that I ever stepped into - an immaculate original 1965 Chrysler 273 V8 Valiant collecting dust at my late parents estate shed!!! I occasionally drive it to keep it alive but I would not go out of my way to buy one for what they sell, nor do I have any interest to sell it as no money will ever replace such long life memories. For all I know, I was probably conceived in that very car LOL!!!!! I guess I am nostalgic in some cases but I also know where to draw the line!!!!. I drove a Ford F100 for nearly 20 years purely because it was nuts and bolts as any fool like myself can do basic maintenance!!!! I saw it as a great substitute for Samson's donkey!!!. I didn't have to worry about the vehicle having to go back to the dealer (or even worse the factory spending big $$$$$$) when one of the many computers that are essential for running the car plays up. If the battery goes flat, I can jump start it with jumper leads or even use tap water for coolant like when I was caught up thousands of miles out in the Australian desert a few years ago. Some cars have the computer playing up when you run out of fuel. Mine had a carburetor and was no problem to start if I run out of car juice!!! I am a little nostalgic about it but not to the point that I need grief counselling when it is no longer in my life!!!! All in all, I suppose it is up to the individual as to what makes them tick (excuse the pun!!) and if someone is willing to pay above inflated prices to get their fix, then the market will also follow depending on how many will travel that same road!!!! The very reason I am grateful to belong to this forum as I no longer need to wear the Genuine collectible big$$$$$ watch when the high quality replica of the same model gives me the same buzz at a fraction of the price!!! As for paying big $$$$$, I know my limit!!!

Joking apart, I agree!! however making a complete case by machining one out of a block of any metal is more elaborate than it would seem? The accuracy and precision in addition to the skills of the machinist would be a very fine challenge. Most of these replica cases are made in the thousands and the initial tooling setup and prototype would pay off for the mass production. I myself like the idea! As for the sealant, i like that too and Timelord also suggested it in his reply! I used a product called gasket goo which is tolerant to high stress and pressure for the automotive maintenance! i too have made seals for some of my watches where original spec ones are not easily found or discontinued! I even see it in my old 1970's kelvinator fridge when I changed the thermostat and works a charm!

If you can knead the JB weld putty fine enough you may be able to adhere the new case neck onto the case as it will be covered with the bezel. It is worth a try as this stuff really hardens and sticks well!!!! It definitely beats heating up the case either by soldering or laser welding as you will be running the risk of internal stresses into the stainless steel crystal structure when exposing such extreme heat to it. This opens up a door to other issues such as stress corrosion cracking. When stainless steel is welded, it is usually pickled with Nitric acid. To beat the odds of any possible other issues is to anneal the mid case a couple of times after the weld!!! Another possibility is to make a loop from the JB weld putty and stick it onto the case top and then try to machine the cured putty and shape out the case neck to your specifications and see what happens!!! All you want is for it to hold the crystal and bezel as it wont be visible. This material cures like steel!!!! Good luck and let us know how you go

Spot on!!!! Makes perfect sense to me!!!!!!. Soon we will need to direct people that to successfully eat - one needs to open their mouth to avoid mistakes. LOL!!!!!

Believe me this stuff works!!!!! When this first came out I recall having using it in the most extreme and isolated situations of my life. We drove in my Ford 100 with my late father and his cousin from Newcastle to Perth simply because my uncle had a fear of flying in planes. Now that is a lot of driving and we crossed the Nullarbor when we got stuck in the middle of nowhere when my vehicle overheated from a leak in the radiator. Dad being a former Commando never left home without carrying with us all his survival kit which included several gallons of tap water especially for washing any mud off the vehicle. I had purchased this product weeks earlier specifically for any of my automotive maintenance and kept it in my glovebox . It was hot as HELL!! as it must have been well over 40 degrees Celsius (105 degrees Fahrenheit) as we could easily fry eggs on the road. We decided to stop and camp near the closest shade. The following morning when it was cooler we attempted to address the issue with the Ford and the radiator was a quarter full from the upper leak. Much to our luck having a traditional nuts and bolts rear wheel drive, timing gear engine vehicle with a copper core, we attempted to patch up as best as possible by kneading this putty onto the leak after cleaning it as best as possible. We had no coolant apart from tap water which we used to get us through the trip. We finally got to our destination and although I had the radiator replaced it never ever leaked.!!! This is something exposed to the heat of the weather, the boiling tap water filled with other crap as our tap water is full of chlorine and it stood the test. I am sure your watch will too without having to be put in boiling water !!!! As a disclaimer I have no vested interest in this product either directly or indirectly apart that it is handy to have,

Definitely great advice from all those who responded! Are you confident with a watchmakers lathe? The other possibility is that you can fill in that section completely to make it as flush as possible to even out the step section. Then you can use a seal of any thickness you like provided that the mid case does not have he same issue! The old submariner cases had no groove (from what I remember) to seat the gaskets so I cannot see how this would not work. Check out the following product. https://www.jbweld.com/products/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick. This product is the best invention for me since sliced bread as it keeps me sane especially that I can use it on stainless steel-- one of my worst enemy! LOL!! i used this to fill in the gasket groove of a heavily pitted case and then evened it out by smoothing it flush with the surface to have a uniform groove so that the seal would sit in nicely! Let us know how you go? Good luck!

Found this on youtube. Enjoy Gentlemen!! I enjoyed it. The question now is who makes the best rolex replica crown since most of the master craftsmen are declining?

It is an absolute privilege and an honour to be part of this wonderful forum. I didn't see it so much as a debate, but an exchange of knowledge and experiences for the very reason why we are all here. I find that all the members I have known here to be a league of gentlemen !!!! . I learnt a lot from everyone here no matter how trivial or complex the information may seem and I am still learning !!! I first learnt of this forum from forum member "Automatico" and am grateful to be here!!!!