horologist

To all Omega enthusiasts, I am seeking help for information on the whereabouts I can purchase a generic screw down stainless steel crown and tube to replace on my Silix Bond Omega? I had purchased a genuine Omega crown and tube for it but the tube did not fit properly into the case as it was too short and loose. This replica was an older model from the current ones that were able to accept the genuine piece. I have found many generic screw down crowns with matching tubes that did the job, but were not stainless steel and once the plating wore off, I had the same problem with the crown. Does anyone know where I could purchase a sterile or generic stainless steel screw down crown and matching tube. My understanding is that the crown tube end part which fits into the case is 2.2 or 2.4 mm in diameter. Any information on this would greatly appreciated with many thanks in advance!!!!!!!!

A world of thanks!!!!! just the info I was looking for. It may or may not solve the problem, but I happy to see this thread

Much appreciated!!!. My replica is a middle of the range which I bought from Silix. If it was a Frankenwatch or MBW, then I would take the risk of getting all the insurance and proper logistics which I intend to in future with more expensive models. The other problem is if a watch needs to be regulated after service, as some of my genuine watches that I have had serviced here locally. I had a genuine automatic Speedmaster serviced by a reputable watchmaker in my city and I needed to return 3 or 4 times to get the timing right for an electronic regulation. This poses another problem when bringing in a freshly serviced watch into a local watchmaker that has been serviced in another town. Some will not touch it and will quote for a service of their own which one can understand as they are a business. Customs here are very touchy with watches. For example, my understanding is that it is illegal to import a genuine Rolex in the US. In UK they charge a VAT on almost anything, In Australia, lets not even go there, they tax the air you breathe, known as a carbon tax.

My intentions have always been to have them serviced by those like yourself. My only problem when I have sent watches for repairs overseas ( as I am not in Europe) are the headaches I have had with Customs and other authorities, especially when sending a genuine Omega for case restoration to Bob Ridely.. Logistics and warranty also present problems. As a result, my current feasible option would be to find a list of instructions which i have searched over and over in the past posts on this forum, without much success, which is why I have posted this question here. I am not a watchmaker and have limited experience with this, so I am trying to find the best option without making same mistake again. Thank you so much for your offer.

Hello to all, I am taking on of my new Submariner Replica for a service to a watchmaker that is willing to do the service after having approached many others that refuse to work on replicas. My problem is that I am worried from a previous experience with another watchmaker on a different Sub replica that did a service but ended up damaging the wider datewheel and replaced it with the original thinner datewheel (that would normally come with the eta 2824/2836) which ended up looking very goofy and did not line up with the date window of the dial. Worst still is that I could not even see the date in the date window. Ended up selling it for spare parts after this horrible experience. I do not want a repeat of this on the new Submariner Replica? Could anyone advise me as to what I should suggest to the new watchmaker as to how I should avoid this same thing from happening as it is obviously a modified part of the mechanism? My understanding is that the new wider datewheel is glued onto the mechanism, in being the last operation to the assembly of the movement. Any advice on would be greatly appreciated with many thanks in advance

Sorry, I clicked wrong key before making correction to my post. I was looking for information on the distance between the external part of the thread and the internal part of the thread is on the threads of the 3.0mm x 0.3mm case tube ? My understanding is that the 3.0mm is the external diameter of the outside of the case tube that fits into the case opening and the 0.3mm is the distance from one tip of the thread to the next tip??? What is the distance between the external part of the thread and the internal part of the thread of the part the screws into the case opening ?? you are saying that this distance is 0.35mm?? Also noticed that some DD came with case openings with 2 different sizes; namely 2.5mm hole and 3.0mm hole. Does anyone know why or did they originally come out with the same smaller opening and was later retapped for a larger crown tube??? Many thanks in advance

Does anyone know what the measurement of the thread pitch is on the 3.0mm x 0.3mm case tube ? My understanding is that the 3.0mm is the diameter of the case tube that fits into the case opening and the 0.3mm is the distance from one ridge of the thread to the next ridge??? Sorry if this may sound quite lame, but I am quite ignorant on this topic and I know there are many here that can educate me on this What is the distance between the tip of the thread and the inside of the thread (ie. from the outside of the thread on the tube to the insde of where the cavity of the thread finishes ?? Also noticed that some DD came with case openings with 2 different sizes; namely 2.5mm hole and 3.0mm hole. Does anyone know why or did they originally come out with the same smaller opening and was later retapped for a larger crown tube??? Many thanks in advance

I finally obtained the right tube to screw onto crown of my Omega replica watch, but ran into a dead end when I removed old tube to replace the new one and discovered that it was too loose to press into the case. Apart from epoxy which I am not too keen on, is there any other way which a crown tube can be made to fit firmly onto the case? I was advised that the replica case would take a genuine crown and tube, but have been unsuccessful.

Forgot to mention, that upon removing crown tube from the replica, the new tube was way too thin to be pressed in, as it is very loose. Are all genuine crown tubes the same size on the end that fits into the case????, Otherwise I may not be able to fit in any genuine crown tubes in this watch case

Thanks!!! I will first sort it out with Swatch as the faulty/ (or wrong piece)? came from them and will then see what eventuates.

Yes - with the red OMEGA logo on the back plus matching parts numbers Yes, however, I am going to get in touch with Swatch group and ask them to resolve this as I am more inclined to believe that the case tube is the faulty piece and not the crown. I will inform them that there is no thread in the case tube on neither side. If no luck with them, I will try to order another case tube somewhere else as it was just under $3 and hopefully this will have the internal thread. Not from ofrei or Swatch as the transient cost would be some 10 times more than what the part is worth In any case, I thank you for your help as you are not to be blamed here. I appreciate all your efforts in helping me sort this out. Will keep you informed

Oh yes, I did check the inside of the case tube and that of the crown and there are no threads in the case tube nor in the crown itself. I even tried to screw the crown onto the tube on both ends to make sure that there had to be a thread somewhere but no go. The weren't cheap either, Swatch Australia, even requested AUS$25 for the courier fee to the watch supply house costing in total almost $AUS68 which was much cheaper than Ofrei quotng over $US100. I have been trying to photograph it with my macro to show you, but somehow I do not have enough resolution on my camera. The replica crown also has a spring to push into the tube, whereas the new one doesn't or maybe it is not meant to have it. The parts ordered were OME-069ST42147 and 090ST1231 just as quoted. Unless there is a remote possiblity that they may have stuffed up at the factory in the packaging department, one never knows, but needless to say, I am dissappointed.

Just got both the crown and tube from my local watch house supplier in the sealed capsule. When I removed it from the packaging, I noticed that it is not a screw down crown. Very dissapointed as the replica came with a screw down crown. Did the genuine model come with the normal crown or have I got the wrong parts number. The genuine Omega reference number for this model is 2537.80.00

Guys, thanks for your help. Much appreciated!!!!. As long as the genuine part will fit in the replica, I am happy with that.

Thanks for your response with the part number and information to go with it which is very helpful. As you are more failiar with such parts, i was wondering if you know how to go about ordering a generic crown and tube that will also do the exactly the same job as the genuine? I am having difficulties finding that correct genuine crown and tube and was interested in more information as to how one goes about also ordering the generic version? Thanks once again for your help

I am in the process of needing to replace a crown on a standard Omega Bond replica with an eta 2824 (40th anniversary model replica ) purchased from Silix and thought it would be safe to also buy the tube to make sure the threads are the same, Prior to ordering one from a watch supply house or anywhere else,(even wtihout the logo as long as it works), I would like to know if the crown and tubes are standard to all such replica models? Has anyone ever tried to fit ia genuine crown and tube on one of these models so that one can be sure of the size? Does anyone know if these models come with a screw in tube or a push in tube? Forgive my ignorance and thank you for your patience. Your feedback would be most apprecaited with many thanks in advance?

Hello to all, I have a eta Rolex replica of the 16613 which is the 2 tone submariner, but was devistated when the springbar broke off and the watch fell on the wooden floor. Luckily there was no damage to the crystal and is still keeping good time. I only noticed this morning that around the edges of the dial near the 9 o'clock, there was some flake of the dial that had come off and is an eye sore as the dial obviously does not appear round. It is annoying as replacing the dial would be the ideal solution. However,dials for this particular model are hard to come by, is there a way to patch it up with some kind of paint, just so that it blends in? Not expecting it to be perfect, Has anyone every been in this situation where the dial is almost impossible to get? Many thanks in advance

Greetings to all and happy new year!!!! I have been looking at the trading zone in the tools and parts section for several months without success in the hope that someone has a crown and tube for sale to fit the 007 Bond 40th anniversary rep which was bought from Silix when Jay and Angel were proprietors. Often you see a lot of Rolex parts but hardly anything for Omega. I was wondering if anyone who has experienced a similar problem can assist me on where to get one or a quality one that will fit for a stem of an eta 2824 mvt? I have tried also various watchmakers but the ones they have are either too big or too small or of poor quality that rust within a month. Many thanks in advance for any responses

Amen, !!! automatico your posts have always hit the nail on the head in bulls eye style. One butcher working at an AD scratched the fu$% out of my dial on my 1680 submariner when my minute hand fell off after a service, as he seemed to be [censored] off that he had to open it just to put the hand back on,, which is why I resorted to a replica. True, there is no cure for dumbass.

I have never denied the fact that the MBW is a fake. I have owned both genuine and replicas, so I have never pretended one from the other to be what they are not. The point is that even a $30 quartz replica should be treated with dignity and respect as much as if it were a calatrava as the services are provided at a cost to the customer. If the service of a calatrava was $5000 and the service to a $30 quartz was $50, then you expect them both to be treated with respect. Period!!!!! I work in a panel beating restoration garage and we have restored Bentleys, Mustangs, DB3 Aston Martins, Jaguars and even a 1950's MG in all the 30 years that I have been there. We also get insurance work from ordinary accidents where we get a lot of old rust buckets, but we do no tell the customers of the rust buckets to dump their cars to the smelters, nor do we kick them in the doors because they are not in the same league as the Bentley We also get the Chrysler 300 with Bentley Grills. Now that is also a fake by the arguements put forward here, so I should treat it as a piece of trash because of the wrong label on it as of course it is not a bentley

Very valid points!!! HOWever::: The psychology of a small mind is that if the label "Rolex" was not on dial and some other label was on it instead, I am sure that the attitude of this watchsmith, technician,brain surgeon, Rocket Scientist or whatever one calls him or himself would be far different. Suppose I took in a $300 Tissot with the same grade Eta mvt to the same watchsmith with 20 certificates on his wall, then I am sure that he would have treated it with far more respect. Replica or not is only in the small minds of those that cannot see outside the square of just a label. If you have a frankenwatch with a high quality eta mvt, then that is still a good quality watch of similar standard if not better than that of the Tissot in mention, regardless of what labels are on dial or mechamism inside. A silk purse or sows ear argument is irrelevant here. Some frankenwatches are pretty good when considering that they have been worked on as a custom job where more time and attention would be put into in comparison to the real McCoy, similar to a 1964 Mustang that has been rebulit with leather seats, walnut intereior, new zinc plated panels( nor original to the car) etc, as opposed to the cheap iron rust prone panels and vinyl interior it first came out from the factory. The moral here is that watchsmith has 2 choices; he either, (1) takes the job for a nominal fee and works on it in an ethical manner or (2) can shrug his shoulders and say" Sorry I do not work on replicas" SIMPLE!!!! if he choses to take on the job and treats it like something he found in the gutter as opposed as if it were a Tissot, then, he has no work ethics and I would put on my running shoes and not even have a timex repaired by him regardless of if he was made an OBE in the watch industry!! One more note is that all timpieces require service regardless and do not need to be screwed up in the first place for this to happen. Surely a Patek Calatrava is not immune from this!! Most of us here are all over the world and ideally, I would always use a watchsmith here as opposed to some of the "REALISTS" locally, In practise, it has not been worth the trouble that I had with customs and sending overseas just for a service and the way some of the cutsoms officers in my country are, it defeats the purpose altogether..

I recently bought a MBW with an eta mvt from a reputable dealer on this forum and was very happy with the deal. It was absolutely a joy to get it. My spark came to an end when I brought it into my watchmaker for a service and noticed that it was running too fast after 3 days of receiving it. Went back and he timed it and the next day the stem fell out. Went back again and said something about the pin that hold the stem in place fell out of place and he then was hitting it on his work bench with the aim to put it into place. I was terrified with what I saw. I said that I wasn't happy with what he was doing and his reply was" that it is only a copy and quite personally, I throw these into the rubbish if it were mine". How !@#@# ignorant!!!! and what should I have done. I took it back from him telling him not to worry about it out of fear impulse that if he could have caused further damage to my clark insert etc. He is one of those credited watchmakers that everyone in town brags about with all his certificates from the horological institute etc, but it meant nothing to me with what I saw and received. I am now left with a watch that I cannot use. What am I to do??

Thanks!!!! I saw that happen once with an IWC which had just been serviced

WOW!!!!Thanks, so if it is picking up one minute each day, how many graduation points would you attempt to turn to the (-) ? I have been looking through the archives, hoping to see a demonstrtion or tutorial of this without success!!!

Hello to all, I noticed that the gold colored eta 2836 -2 mvt used in the Omega replica does not have a leaver for adjusting it to either the (+) or (-) position as with the older eta movements. My understanding is that if the watch was running fast,one would move the leaver to the (-) position until you get it correct and if running slow, the leaver is moved towards the (+) direction Instead the new 2836 mvt, it has a screw with some kind of a wish bone around it. If anyone has ever adjusted one of these, I would appreciated your advice on how to adjust a mechanism that is running one minute fast per day? Thanks in advance!!!!