gioarmani

Spectacular!

In all honesty, unless you're specifically looking for it, or you even know what to look for, it's not too noticeable and there's really not that much of a difference.

Technically making these dials is like painting a car; you but on a base coat to establish a foundation color, then you apply the clear. The way these are made is a clear, glossy, plastic laminate with the dial print already on it is molded over a dial painted glossy black. The way it should be done--in order to look like the gen--is to put the clear, glossy plastic laminate over a matte, charcoal gray painted dial, not a black glossy one: http://www.rwg.cc/members/tear-observations-DSS-t97199.html

The color depicted in photographs can be deceptive. You can't really use "too much" lume; regardless of the quantity, the molecule has a pre-programmed color & peaks after it's exposed to a certain light temperature, regardless of how long it's exposed to the same light source; it can only be one color/hue/strength at it's brightest. Using more lume powder in your mix will not make it a deeper shade of blue, or green, etc. Here's the pure lume, not mixed down with any binders or varnish: It's the same color in it's thick, pure, powdered form as the lume after mixed, applied & dried. If you check Tritec's Superluminova website, it explains on each shade of lume what temp of light exposure results in a peak charge, when it hits peak and how long the peak lasts before it fades, how fast the peak tapers off, and how long the fade will burn before completely discharged. Keep in mind, even on my gens at a full charge, you can see it for a few minutes in average room light before it starts to fade off, but these lumes are really only designed for use in pitch-black environments (upper atmosphere at night for pilot's watches, deep sea darkness for divers, etc.). You have to be in complete darkness, with your eyes totally adjusted to the dark in order to actually see the "true" lasting effects of the lume's staying-power. If there's even enough ambient light in the room for your eyes to be able to recognize different objects and make your way around without bumping into things, there's too much light and any lume is going to appear half dead after only a few minutes, gen or not. The reason why most rep's lumes are so dull is because the factory is using more varnish and less lume powder (primarily because of theft--a lot of lumes are worth as much, if not more, pound for pound as gold). Therefor, the manufactures are really goign to skimp on it in order to deter theft and also get the biggest return on their investment. The color's end-result reflected in the photograph all depend on a number of variables--the type of ambient light when shooting (incandescent, florescent, natural, tungsten, etc.), the length of the shutter/exposure, the aperture setting on the lens, how long the lume was charged, how long it's been since it was charged, etc. Sort of the same way your skin can appear completely different hues when shot with a flash, without a flash, inside, outside, etc. Here's the most accurate-to-life comparison: The only reason this gen shot appears to glow more is because the crown has been pulled out to stop the second hand--you can get a longer, brighter exposure with more depth of field, and trick the viewer by not being able to see the length of exposure by the blurred second hand (if the second had wasn't stopped, and this was a ten second exposure, you would see the second hand's glow, blurred and streaked in the photo over the markers on the dial, telling you how long the exposure was): As you can see in the above pic, the exposure for that shot was 15 seconds long (notice the second hand). My exposure was only 1/8 of a second, which is why, even though my movement is running at 28,800 BPH, the second isn't distorted by the blur of its movement. Side by side, this lume is a perfect match to the gen.

It absolutely is. I've also switched parts back and forth between mine to see which looks best--even the crystal and insert are an exact fit. Fortunately, the inner case construction was the same between both--the same spacer rings & screws worked in each. But even if they didn't, you wouldn't need to swap whole movements, one could easily just swap out dials.

Rock on.

Thanks. Will do...and am

C'mon people; have we not learned that 99% of all rep watch sites are rip-offs? That's why we found these forums to begin with. I've never tried their watches and never would. Almost every single watch site linked to bag sites, are rip-offs--sofiasreplica, 7starhandbags, ereplica. etc. It's easier to screw someone $600 for a watch than $600 for a purse.

Apparently they have updated the site--this is now listed as the "best version" at Eurotimez. It is also labeled the V5.

I don't know of any sellers in the EU, but google might provide some. Just go to google.com and put in "replica louis vuitton". Our servers only pull US sites first. Your servers will pull EU sites first. If not, maybe you could find a member in the US or UK, and ship them to him, and then he can send them to you.

Hopefully this info might get relayed to the factories in order to improve the dial; more than likely not... After inspecting the V4 & V3 dial, trying to figure out the best way to get the more "matte" look, I noticed something very different about the these dials--as opposed to the V2--when I was putting together my mod tutorial. I noticed on my Submariners, DayDates, etc., the dial print was printed/painted directly onto a gloss-painted dial. On the DSSDs, from the V3 on up, the dial print is actually printed on the inside of a clear, glossy, plastic sticker laminated on a black, glossy dial. The V2 was simply matte paint with no laminate. After attempting to remove the print from a damaged dial I bought, I noticed unlike the Subs and what-not, the print would not come off with nail-polish remover/acetone. I didn't even notice it was a sticker until the acetone began to loosen the sticker's adhesive from the edge of the dial: At first, I figured it was just a laminate to make the dial gloss appear thicker, until I started to peel off the sticker & found the print was on the inside of the sticker, as opposed to the dial itself: On the latest version of the dial ( http://www.rwg.cc/members/Stopped-AD-DeepSea-t97161.html ), I don't have a spare to tear-down to see if the construction is the same, but I think I have a idea on how to get a perfectly correctly constructed & colored dial. From the V3 on up to the V5 (or whatever it is we're on now), the dials are too black and too glossy, and the date window not beveled enough--until they finally got it perfect on the latest one. The genuine DSSD's dial is more of a charcoal gray in appearance, and is a semi-gloss--not truly glossy and not truly matte. It's actually a semi-gloss; i.e., you can see the reflection of the underside of the hands on the face of the dial, whereas on a matte dial, there are no reflective properties, and a gloss dial is too reflective. The reps appear to be a gloss black painted dial, coated with a gloss plastic laminate. If the manufacturers would simply paint the dial a matte charcoal instead of a gloss black, then coat it with the laminate, with the newly perfected date-window, that dial would look true to gen. On a bright note, the bezel insert is actually a high-tech ceramic, on not merely a piece of coated metal. It doesn't show up well in this light, but the cross section of the insert shows it's clearly ceramic: I've heard stories of people losing the pearls on these quite easily, even though that has not been my experience, but they appear to be fitted quite snug into to insert itself, rather than just glued in like most of the rep Sub inserts are. There is a modicum of glue added to the back for reinforcement, so if you're worried about losing yours, you might pop it out & re-glue it with a two-ply epoxy or gorilla glue to steady it. Unless the "factory" worker happen to bore the hole too big on the insets that day, these pearls--for the most part--are fitted pretty tightly. In case you're wondering how to remove the insert from the bezel on these, I found the easiest & safest way was to remove the movement, push the crystal out from the inside, and take the tip of an X-acto blade/pen-knife and slice parallel to the bottom of the insert, in order to separate the insert from the adhesive holding it to the bezel. Be very gentle & take your time doing this: because this insert is ceramic & not metal, you have to think of it like a sheet of glass--it does have tensile strength, but not torsional strength. In other words it does not give to flexing; they won't bend, but they will break, so use kid-gloves when removing one.

The beveled window is very deep, I'm not sure if this is the doubled dial or not, and so far this is the only dealer with these--I don;t know if this is technically a V5 or if this is the one the others are waiting till next month for. There are too many #@%$ing releases of this to keep up anymore; this is the best one I've seen yet.

I've had better luck with the ETAs.

If you're talking about the "original gas escape valve" print, it's heads above the V4. If you're referring to the "rolex rolex rolex" engraving, they essentially look the same. My macro shots suck--low light, low shutter speed, small aperture, and too lay to use a tripod.

Here's the pictures of the stock watch, before the relume:

No, I got a heads up that a new release with the best dial was coming, so I ordered it ASAP. I'm hoping he'll change the pics on the site to the new watch today or tomorrow--simply because it looks so much better than the one on there now. According to him, any order for the ETA or the clone ETA will be this watch.

It appears thicker on mine, only after the lume job, because I didn't use as much as the factory did. Personally, I like the wider rims; but what you see on the stock picture above (before re-lume) is how the watch comes.

This could be it--this is the fourth piece I've bought for myself & others over the last week, and Chris' is the first one I've seen this nice!

For those waiting; done: http://www.rwg.cc/members/Stopped-AD-DeepSea-t97161.html

The quality is very good.

The two Keepall 55's pictured are travel bags--almost 2 feet long each. By trolley, do you mean the LV suitcases with pull handles & wheels? Those I bought from Kenberg (Bergie's on the forum).

One last pic--what's nice about this piece is the bezel is nice & thick, like it should be, and the insert appears to sit slightly below the bezel lip, like it should. The ring lock's black print is also nice and smooth the way it should be, not overly engraved like most of the newer ones are.

Fortunately, I was just looking. This is actually the newest DSSD from Chris, at Eurotimez. I just had to dress it up with my new Rolex box set from watchnet. Quite nice, over all; possibly the best I've seen so far... The rehaut lines up perfect & proper at 3, 9, & 12 (I switched the crystal out so I could shoot it without too much distortion--the rehaut does not appear incorrectly deep on the wrist): And possibly the best feature of this piece--the new correctly beveled date-window: Other details: ETA clone movement: And the correctly/gen sized & shaped two-piece caseback: Too many of the later V3s and V4s came with the faux-titanium part of the caseback having an incorrect shape (notice the incorrect stepped trench below, as opposed to the correctly shaped piece above): I must admit, I am very, very impressed with this piece. In my opinion, the V4 botched the case shape & crown-guards, and this piece seems to have corrected the problems with that and the V4's poorly fitted SELS & lugs: If the factory dumped the V4 case mold and went back to the V3 case mold, it was a wise decision. The SEL-to-lug fit of this model is as good, if not better than the V3s, and damn close to the gen: The lume is all blue as well, the hands a bit brighter than the markers, but still all blue, none the less: Now here's the part I'm the most proud of, if I do say so myself. I've never done a lume-job before, as I didn't think I'd have the patience for it. I got the correct (gen) color Superluminova from Flavor Flav on Repgeek, and just used a Testors gloss varnish to bind it (with just a dash of Testors white paint ) I was too afraid to lose concentration and screw up my first re-luming in order to shoot the process, so I'll just post what I did. First, I pushed the markers off the dial from the back with the tip of a sewing needle, soaked them in a bit of nail-polish remover for about 30 seconds--in order to loosen & dissolve the factory lume--then removed it by brushing off the remains with a stiff-bristled, flat 1/4 inch paint brush. After the markers were cleaned with nail-polish remover, I secured them in Rodico, mixed my lume mixture of equal parts powder & varnish, with just a dash of white-paint & applied it with the tip of a watch-movement oiling needle. Once it had dried (I gave it three hours to set up) I took a soft, sable-haired 1/4 inch flat paint-brush and after making it damp--not wet--in a bit of the nail polish remover, gently brushed the tops of the markers to smooth the surface of the lume & even it out, making it flat instead of domed, as I'm not a fan of domed markers. I sprayed a bit of Krylon gloss varnish over the tops of the markers, and let them dry again. To re-affix them to the dial, I mixed up an equal portion of two-ply, clear, waterproof epoxy and applied a minuscule dot of glue to the tiny hole in the dial where the markers sit, then pressed them gently into place with a yakitori bamboo skewer, tipped with Rodico. After the glue had started to thicken--about five minutes--I took the Rodico off the blunt end of the skewer and gently pressed them down flush with the dial, making sure they were all perfectly aligned. Here's the final result this morning, after dried & reassembled: I was AMAZED at how nice they turned out, not to mention how bright they glowed in the ambient light of the room after a full charge from an LED flashlight. This dial lights up like a f*cking beacon once your eyes are adjusted to the dark! And as far as staying power goes....here's a shot EIGHT hours later: Dulling, but I was amazed I could still tell perfect time in the dark. For comparison to the gen's color, here's the charged gen dial: And here's mine: So if anyone's still on the fence about which model to jump for, I definitely give the thumbs up to this one from Eurotimez. A nice piece indeed. Hope you enjoy!

I have stated in past threads that I used to do business with sofiasreplica.com and 7starhandbags.com for all my girl's LV (and other bags) needs. NOT ANYMORE... Not only does it appears a lot of their sites have gotten pinched, sofias actually tried to screw me on my wholesale order by canceling my $1,200 order with 50% off and asking me to redo the order and only giving me a 20% discount--instead of the 50% they had guaranteed me IN WRITING. Needless to say, as good as their quality was (in the past...) I am saying to hell with their site/sites--there's nothing more detestable than a blatant liar; especially someone who does it for money. Based on word of mouth, I tried another website, http://www.ereplicabags.com , and was treated phenomenal, not only with the quality of the product, but also with the service, and pricing; they held true to their promise of a 50% wholesale discount. So, I wound up getting $1,200 worth of LV bags for $600, with FREE shipping. All their LVs have the thicker printed canvas that really holds it shape over time; definitely better than the flimsier, thinner printed fabric that your cheaper, crappier LV reps come with. All have genuine, oxidizing leather trim, serial numbers, proper markings, tags and stamps, straps, ID tags, paperwork (care/instruction booklets, cards, faux receipts, etc), dustbags and the like. Quality and service was above & beyond. They guarantee that your shipment will arrive in perfect condition, and should the @ssholes at Customs seize your package, they will either refund you in full or send out all the merchandise again, at their expense. Nice. So here's a few quick pics of just some of the pieces I received last week. LV Monogram Keepall 55: LV Damier Azur Keepall 55: LV Monogram Perfo Pouchette: LV French Purse: LV Damier Messenger Melville (my photog bag ): LV Damier Azur Griet: Most websites are bait & switch scam sites that promise pics of a certain quality that you'll never get. Others are less expensive, with crappier quality merchandise, and some are simply too overpriced, regardless of what they deliver. And most certainly don't have guaranteed delivery, regardless of customs. The nice thing about their wholesale discount is that if your buy 5 pieces you get 40% off (doesn't have to be a bag, can be an organizer, wallet, keychain, etc.)--in other words you can order 2 bags and pay $500, or you can order 5 and only pay $675. If anyone is looking for an LV piece for themselves or their significant other, I highly recommend this site. Enjoy!

I just got my Eurotimez DSSD in day before yesterday. My review should be up this afternoon. Best dial & version over-all I've seen yet: