gioarmani

I don't know. I don't ever remove my bands as I don't see a need to. It could very well say "BLOW ME, ROUND EYES!" on my lugs & I wouldn't know.

No--I don't think anything needs to be done. It moves like a gen and due to the link's side polish, I don't find any edges that need to be sanded.

Definitely not. Wrong color lume & no beveled date-window. IMO, PT's & ET's are one in the same.

Noobesque jab? I can't tell whether I should crack up or not... Judging by the lack of , I'll guess the latter. Yes, EuroT's V5 seems to be it. From what I've seen of the other new ones PT's etc, they look damn near the same.

Ok...sorry; stupid page won't let me edit the post. No excuse for that last pic. Here's the gen to V5 SEL/lug comparison again:

I have to disagree. Gen to rep on my V5, I don't notice a difference--they look the same: (sorry about the crappy pic quality--lazy & no light)

98%.

Congrats. The addiction only grows from here....

Finito.

After spending far too long combing rolexforums, watchnet, and other sources trying to buy a gen DeepSea owners manual to no avial (as no one was wiling to part with theirs), I decided to take the direct approach and call Rolex directly, last week. Remember this?: Considering the lack of response, I doubt it. Anyway, she arrived this morning--free of charge--and it's a nice little booklet, to say the least. Lots of info on the construction, operation & functions, and a few nice B&W photos from the webiste. Perhaps tomorrow if I get bored I can shoot the entire DSSD package with box & tags...

1) Looks like either a retaining ring for the case-back or a fastening ring for the bezel. 2) I'm not too familiar with IWCs, but if it's not a movement spacer-ring (which I sincerely doubt), the movement & the bezel functions properly, the case-back seals & it tests waterproof, maybe it was a part that didn't belong there to begin with?

Unfortunately. They all do now....

Canned air/dust eliminator--available at any office-supply or computer store. Always, without fail.

Thanks!

You're welcome. Neither of those pieces is the compression ring, though. The compression ring is the primary functional internal case part that flexes to absorb the external case pressure (you can see the top of the compression ring when looking at the front of the watch--it's the piece that reads "ORIGINAL GAS ESCAPE VALVE--RING LOCK SYSTEM). It comprises the middle of the inside case, between the crystal and the bottom of the case: Part "R" EDIT: Yes, the HEV is a big leak problem. The next two worse would be the case-back, and then the crown, respectively.

I doubt it. And the reason why is, even the odd rep that actually does come with an inner compression ring (like Josh's "Ultimate"), I doubt very seriously they're fully functional. And if they're not--or if your particular model doesn't even have one--then that kind of pressure is going to damage or destroy the case: Using the above pic as a reference, If you remove both piece 1 & 2 from the case, then screw on only piece 1, you'll find that is does go all the way down, no sweat. When the inner piece, piece 2, is added to the mix and piece 1 is screwed back down, it won't go as far. And no, milling a few layers off piece 2 won't change anything either, except making the gasket sit at the wrong height, thus not sealing the case-back properly, which will inevitably lead to serious leaking. And because most of the cheaper 21J models don't have two-piece case-backs, they don't have that problem--but they sure as hell couldn't take that amount of depth pressure: If you're trying to pull of that you've got a gen DSSD, then the depth rating would be 12,800 ft, or 3900 meters, or 387 ATMs, or withstanding 5,418 PSI (lbs of pressure per sq in). If you're going with the fact that it's a rep and not a gen (if yours was properly sealed, greased, and tested), then it would have a depth rating of 330 ft, or 100 meters, or 140 PSI.

Correct. Pressure on the exterior of the watch (water pressure) increases exponentially as depth increases. But the pressure within the watch (the air's pressure, or density) exponentially decreases as depth increases. So the threat of exploding crystals isn't a threat upon submerging, it's a threat upon emerging. Remember, the biggest danger posed to any diver isn't going down, it's always coming back up. The only threat to the watch while descending would be leaking--as the exterior water pressure increases and the interior air's density decreases, it's easier for water to force its way in.

A $50 Timex would probably test to that depth, if properly mainteained. It's pretty deep for pressure on an unprotected human body, but as far as diving technology goes, it's not that deep. It's actually much easier to bring a man (or watch) back in from the vacuum of space than it is to bring him up from 1000 ft. So, yes 10ATMs is equal to 330 ft. Basically, this watch tested to a minimum of 330 feet below sea level. And even though I don't know of anyone with a machine that goes beyond 10 ATMs, I seriously think this rep--after mods--could easily go further than 330 ft. (To extrapolate, the marine epoxy I used is guaranteed to withstand 2000psi of pressure, and each ATM is aprox 14 psi. So is this stuff really good to 2000 psi, or 142 ATMs, or 4600 feet?...hmmm...) In other words, one ATM is equal to approximately 14 pounds per square inch (equivalent to the surface pressure at sea level; you're already at 2 ATMs by simply sticking your arm in the pool), and that the pressure changes for "atmospheres" (ATM) that occur at an intervals of 1 ATM of change per every additional 33 ft of depth. So, at surface level you're already at 33 ft worth of pressure, or 1 ATM... up to the 33 feet mark you're at 2 ATMs--1 ATM for the depth PLUS the 1 ATM already present at the surface, for a total of two ATMs. Up to 99 feet, we're under that surface ATM, plus another 2 for a total of 3 ATMs, and so on. If I'm remembering correctly, essentially, "air" pressure decreases with altitude and "water" pressure increases with depth--like the principle behind a barometer with varying height, I guess. Because water is denser than air, the pressure increases more rapidly as you descend. To understand the reason why it's important to know the difference between air & water pressure is that air's volume in a certain space is reduced proportionate to the water pressure surrounding it. At 2 ATMs the volume of air is halved, even though the density is doubled. At 3 ATMs the air is at a third of surface volume, and so on. At 2 ATMs the volume of air is halved, but the density is doubled, at 3 ATM it is tripled, because the waterr pressure is tripled as well. Understand? In other words, the air within a confined space will expand proportionally as pressure is reduced. For example, moving from 2 ATM to 1 ATM (from 66 to 33 feet, or even from 33 feet to the surface), the air in a closed container will double. This is why it's necessarily not the submersion (the dive) that will kill you, it's the surfacing that will. Basically, the deeper you go, the greater the water pressure on the timepiece and the greater pressure on the air trapped inside. It is this very difference in volume & density that makes the air want to expand & escape (thus letting air out while letting water in) or, worst case scenario, causes the crystal to explode from the watch, destroying it. This is why past 600 feet, your skull will implode, and not explode. Illustrated on the atmosphere-to-psi calculator here...: http://www.lenntech.com/unit-conversion-calculator/pressure.htm ...the pressure exerted on this DSSD at 10 ATMs, or 330 ft, was approximately 147 pounds of pressure per square inch. Fascinating, ain't it?

To the PS: I believe you do! Thanks a lot for the (eventual) sticky upgrade. Due to price fright, I won;t even bother googling that part you mentioned... As to my SMP chrono, no modding, just the existing o-rings.

I'm only 5'7" & about 140 lbs. Ermenegildo Zegna is the absolute best fitting dress shirt I've ever tried. True form-fitting and nice length in the sleeve and at the back; not too long. I generally have all my suits taken in to have a more athletic cut and as a result like my jacket sleeves a bit shorter to show off the cuffs. Zegna does it perfectly; even all the Zegna reps I bought from Kenberg.

I used to swear by PCs until 2003 when I got my first Mac. I'm on the new 24 inch iMac now, and wouldn't use another PC if you gave it to me. My gf owns a PC laptop and I can't tell you the amount of times I've had to do something on my Mac because her PC's simply too complicated or just won't do it. I was one of the numerous PC freaks who sneared at Mac; until I actually got a week free trial on an iMac with no restocking fee. Needless to say, I felt foolish not having tried it sooner and never went back. PC's are for the close minded who prefer things to be overly complicated and like to make themselves feel "smart" by figuring out in-depth Windows operating problems. The rest of us actually are smart and simply prefer not to have any problems.

Ever given Ruehl a try? Surprising quality and fit for the money.

I'm going to Disney this weekend, but my wrist will be going to Daytona.

Oh...you probably just didn't notice it to begin with, but the DeepSeas all come slightly ajar. The case-backs on the DSSDs are made similar to that of the gens, and on the most of the non-Asian reps straight from the box, about 99% aren't completely secured all the way down, and can't be. The reason why you won't be able to get it completely secured down is for the same reason that Rolex refuses to even let their own ADs service the gen DSSDs and instead sends them all back to Zurich: it takes a serious amount of pressure to secure the DSSD case-back down correctly in order to truly withstand 12,800 feet of pressure and no one except for Rolex has a machine than can test to those depths. Not to mention, the DeepSea takes a 36.5mm case-back opener which is unavailable on the open-market because Rolex still holds the patent, and because they don't want anyone else opening the watch, they aren't releasing the aftermarket part until 2010--the first DSSDs were sold in '08, with 2 year warranties so it will be at least 2010 before we see the correct sized die or wrench to open them.