gioarmani

Unless they've changed it somehow, what's pictured is the exact same as the latest version of this being shipped out: http://www.tt88time.com/index.php?main_pag...f09db243de91b7c

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123

Bezel, gloss dial, band fit, blue-green hour markers with blue hands...this looks like the most recent version of the DSSD V3 that Andrew was shipping from GZ. A shot of the caseback would be more helpful in determining that; a few oddballs got spit out with one-piece casebacks, but most have the correct, and bigger, faux titanium piece.

If it sounds like it's spinning freely, then it's normal. if it sounds like the metal rotor is grinding against the caseback, then it might have a loose rotor screw. Some 7750's are even so loud people can hear them from 4 feet away.

The swiss 7750 doesn't have the second hand sub-dial spinning at the 6 o'clock position, it's built to spin at the 9 o'clock position (incorrect for your daytona); regardless of whether the movement is asian or swiss, it still has to be modified transfer the gears for seconds from 9 to 6. It's the extra gears that have been added to this (both the swiss and asian models offered) that turn this piece into a piece of shhit. In other words, swiss or asian movement...makes zero difference. Essentially, do you want a $300 pile of garbage, or a $1,000 pile of garbage? EDIT: If you want to look for it, there's a tutorial on here on how to add graphite powder to one of the gears (on the extra bridge plate added to transfer the seconds sub-dial from 9 to 6) in order to temporarily stave off the self-destruction of the watch, but with all due respect, if you didn't know how/why this particular movement was modified, one might assume you might not have the knowledge needed to tear apart, lube, and reassemble the movement yourself. The easiest solution is to either find someone to perform this mod for you--if you don't wish to attempt it yourself--or simply have one of our resident smiths disable the seconds at 6 subdial. You won't have a functioning second hand anymore, but your movement will last longer.

I had nothing but problems with my Vostoks. As with all mechanical things Russian, their reliability is a shot in the dark--more so than reps, even. They are also a ROYAL pain in the ass to regulate/keep regulated.

Phoband actually is/was a board certified attorney in Florida, where I am, but due to circumstances beyond my control last year, I had to put off finishing law school until this fall, so I'm not sure how current/accurate my information will be. But Louisianna is probably the LAST state in the Union that you want to move to. Half of the state looks like shhit, the other half only smells like it. The crime and political corruption is one of the highest in the US, and other than typical Southern-style politically corrupt scandals and bastardized french white-trash, the place is a cultural and cognitive vacuum. Avoid at all costs. To my knowledge it's easier if your company could apply for the Visa for you, but I believe it's a J-1 work visa for a skills/work exchange type, or the ubiquitos H-1B visa for typical employment stay. A lawful permanent resident would move up to the green card, which short of good contacts and greased palms will take years. If memory serves, the J visas are renewable every 18 months, but in order to get an H-1B visa, you will have to have the US equivalent of a Bachelor's degree, or 12 years continuous work experience in the same field you would be applying for in the US. EDIT: Considering "ubique" is Latin for "from everywhere", we would first have to know where you're coming from to determine if it's worse than where you'll be going. If the answer is Kabul, Dushanbe, or Glasgow, then Louisianna might actually be a step up for you.

Absolutely refund. That POS is completely unacceptable.

Based on every other past Rolex rep, between all the dealers pre-release PR/hype, and the post-release reality checks, I'm not sure how much forward the V4 will be. The newest version/update of this model appears to be the one prestigewatch was offering, though unclear as to if this is the base for the next dealer's "V4". The bezel is slightly improved (although the most current version of the V3 from Andrew--like mine--seem to have the same, better bezel and gen-like caseback, which the initial V3 offering didn't have) , the dial is finally matte again, but the lume went from blue, back to green, the CGs are a bit off (judging by the pictures anyway), and the band doesn't seem to fit as well as the supposed V3. Two steps forward, one step back, and one step to the side, as per usual... Not trying to toot my own horn, but in case you want to try it, here's the tutorial for V3 to V4 modification: http://www.rwg.cc/members/To-Moddifying-Rolex-D-t94391.html It really makes a hell of a difference.

If you feel like going all the way... http://www.rwg.cc/members/To-simple-and-ea...l&hl=modify

Never been a Breitling fan, but this piece looks a little confused; not as "classic" looking as most of their other works. And what's up with the TRON font on the bezel? Trying to appeal to the old Atari crowd?...

Will taste and money ever be relative? There should be mandatory classes taught for kids...

Nice review. Good pics!

Just spent the day at the Sandpearl in Clearwater; hit both the ocean & the pools; held up fine. Next weekend, off to Long Boat Key to dive & take in Beethoven's 9th at the Sarasota Orchestra. Will update how far I take the DSSD down to; want to get it to at least 100 ft or so. Ciao.

Sorry--had to upgrade to Photobucket Pro--tutorial hits crashed my regular account. Pics should be back up now.

Interesting; I never noticed that. Then again, I am usually staring closer to the seat...

I didn't know Jetmid worked in Vegas...

I've never thought they looked attractive at all. It's hiding the raw beauty of the materials chosen for a piece's construction. Imho, it looks as silly as the people who paint their car's wheels the same color as the body; it just destroys the aesthetic. And as far as practicality is concerned, it serves it's usefulness about as well as a gold-plated watch. Scratches and blemishes on steel can be mostly removed, buffed, polished out, etc. Any sort of plating will simply have to be replaced upon damage.

I say, "good for them". Personally, I like the shine. No one's ever had to get rid of a watch because the glare was so bad it was impossible to tell the time on it. I've never been a fan of watches that look like they don't have a crystal; save it for the reading glasses. Hiding the fact that there's a crystal takes away from the fact that the crystal's there not only for a practical purpose, but an aesthetic one as well. It is part of the design, imho. Flat, convex, concave, raised, domes, tapers, recessed, with or without a cyclops eye, etc.--the crystal should be incorporated as an integral part of the overall design & look of the watch.

How long will it take the Chinese to crack the cards? Who do you think Hublot will be paying to make them?

Forget it. Crown position is simply luck-of-the-draw. Unless you're an expert at modifying/drilling, own tube taps & keys, it's not going to happen. The reason why a crown always re-seats in the same position is for two reasons: 1) the crown-tube doesn't move--it's fixed to the case--and neither do the threads on the tube that determine where the screw-down begins and ends. 2), The threads on the inside of the crown itself are also obviously fixed and can't be changed either. Removing the tube & going through the trial & error process of trying to find the perfect position for the crown to sit straight up is too redundant even for experts. Your best/easiest bet is to buy a few crowns with stems from the original dealer & see if one of those will screw in differently on your case's tube.

Nice!

According to Rolex USA, the painted engraving on the insert does contain a powdered platinum... ...but the gen doesn't appear to have any metallic proprieties to it. It definitely appears flat white in photos & in person:

Scantily clad women & watches. Some nice P'Shops here, for those looking for looking for a new desktop wallpaper... http://rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=54625

Interesting. Different caseback, different rotor overlay, different bezel teeth, different spacer-ring and screws... it might behoove you to shoot this from the sides to help the members get you a better educated answer. Which dealer sent this and when did you purchase this piece? If you've removed the pearl & insert, you should attempt to file the back of the insert before gluing it back in the bezel, to see how/if it it can be properly re-seated.