freddy333

1665fan -- Actually, the MBW cases do have the crease, but it is not as pronounced (deep). I think you have two choices - buy a gen case or modify an MBW (or another case). No rep part is going to be exactly (100%) the same as the gen part.

Thanks Alligoat. That is exactly what I needed to know.

Thanks, but I think Jensen is talking about modding a 1575 to add the GMT function (many 1575's are engraved with '1570' on the movement bridge and are often referred to as 1570s). I am familiar with that site.

For example, in the early 60s, it was 1560 + 1565.

Anyhow, let's see what others have to say.

I think it is the same case with the 1560 & 1565, but I agree that it would help to have input from others with more experience with these (1570/1575) movements. Anyone?

My thinking is that there is probably more than just a datewheel required. Another bridge or plate with gearing that runs the additional date change mechanism would probably need to be added. So what I need to know is what parts are required, can they be retro-fit onto the top plate (I assume below the automatic wind/rotor assembly) and where might I get those parts?

For date function: If you want to add the date function, simply install a date wheel and a dial that has a date window. Both the 1570 and the 1575 have the date function.

Euno -- I am not interested in the GMT functions (or other movements) since I want to use the movement for my DRSD (which has the date window).

How sure are you about only needing to add a datewheel to a 1570 to give it the date function?

The reason I am pressing this question is because I am trying to buy a no date watch with a 1570 movement to use in my DRSD (if the datewheel can be added easily). But I do not want to buy the watch if I cannot (easily) modify the movement to add the date or it won't work in my DRSD.

Euno -- Thank you for the info, but I am not sure that answers my question: Can you convert a 1570 (without date) to a 1575 (with date) since the basic calibre is the same? Is it just a case of adding an additional screw-on bridge, and if that is the case, does anyone have a source for the bridge or whatever parts are needed?

I thought vintage Seadweller 1665s used 1575s (often engraved with '1570' on the bridge), and the difference between the 1575 & the 1570 was just the addition of the datewheel in the 1575. Is that wrong?

Does anyone know what is required and where to source the parts to convert a 1570 movement to 1575?

Not an expert on 'modern' models, but this looks like a rep to me.

Excellent tutorial, Pug.

The quality camera shots make it a reference work.

Ziggy's the master blaster here, but it sounds like either a problem with the keyless works (maybe a bent clutch lever (this governs the stem's movement from mainspring winding to hand-setting)) or a duff mainspring. In either case, you should have it checked.

I never really left, just slowing down for august... web site is to visible, better to play your cards closer to the chest...

You just repair watches. Has that become illegal up north?

I think I remember reading about that. Ouch!

Did Ziggy say he was unable to repair it for some reason? If you have the replacement parts, I might be able to fix it as long as the tube did not damage the hole in the case (I can tap minor cross-threading, but cannot fix stripped threads). But PM me and we can discuss it if you want.

Nanuq -- I agree that the 20mm bars do not fit the OEM DW lug holes, but, based on the input I have received so far, I have a feeling the 19mm bars may actually have different (narrower) pins. I would not put it past Rolex to use different bars (for different watches) with the same lug widths, which is why I am hoping someone with a real pair (of springbars) will also have a micrometer or a more conclusive answer.

I ordered some 19mm bars that Avitt recommended, but I already know that the case diameter on these is narrower than the case diameter of the 20mm gen (or generic) bars (which I have).

What is wrong with the crown & tube you already have? I thought Ziggy modded your watch?

7" wrist and you are all probably sick of seeing these, but

How about a nice plain old stainless steel Datejust with bar markers?

It is classic, understated and goes well with everything.

Still Thursday here, but this one is joining me for dinner tonight

Tomorrow never knows.

Too bad, but thank you for checking RG.

Are the lug holes in DW cases the correct size?

After spending the past week studying my Rolex reference books and re-viewing the nearly half gig's worth of gen vintage Daytona photos that I have amassed in my hard drive archives over the years, I still cannot decide whether the lug holes in DW cases are correct or if they need to be drilled (enlarged)?

Here is a side-by-side comparison

(the lug holes in the case on the left are untouched and the lug holes in the case on the right are drilled to 1.31mm)

If anyone has a set of gen 19mm springbars as used in vintage Daytonas and a micrometer, can you measure the end pins and post the diameter? I only need the size of the end pins that fit into the lug holes, not the springbar body itself.

________________________

One thing that IS clear (no pun intended) is the superiority of gen Tropic 21 crystals over either Clark's or Helfands generic lenses. Not only does the gen T21 stand prouder than the generics, but the Plexiglas material literally sparkles in comparison

Anyone that may be wondering whether this is a good place to save a little money, I would recommend against it. Go for the gen T21.

Where did you buy this one?

What Nanuq said.

Wow!

Ziggy -- If you can check on the hand sizes that would help.

Avitt -- I am considering a v71 to use for the Flytimer dial and hands (I am using the Fly's v72 for the DW Newman project).

As far as I know, the v71 is the same as the V22 but has the additional hour counter.

This is the info I have on the v22/v71

This is the info I have on the v72

There is only about .15mm difference in the height of the 22 (71) and the 72, so I do not think that should be a problem. But the big question is whether the hands are the same sizes (and in the same positions) between the 71 and 72?

WOW!!

Story please.

Thanks Ziggy. If the overall dimensions are that close (within about 1.5mm of each other), is it safe to assume that the 71 should fit the case, but without needing the current spacer ring?

I also need to know if the hand positions and sizes are the same between the 2 movements, so I can move a dial from a 72 over to the 71 and everything on the dial will line up correctly?

Oh, and welcome back, Zig. I hope your summer is going well.

Sorry to hear about the website going down though.