freddy333

Are the movements and hand sizes the same?

(v71 on left, v72 on right)

I thought I read once that these 2 movements are functionally the same, but the 71 is larger. But I cannot find the post or website I read that on and I do not know if that is correct. If the 71 is larger, does that mean it will not fit a case made for a 72, or does it mean that it will fit the case without needing the additional spacer ring?

Anyone know?

Avitt -- Please PM me for the best goods item (your box is full)

I have a friend that had one of the pusher buttons literally fall off of his 3 year old gold IWC chronograph. IWC said they have to order a replacement pusher. That was more than 1 year ago and as of last week he was still waiting.

The mechanical details of Jensen's frankenwatches are as good as some of the project watches seen here, but he needs to fit them with better dials. I cannot imagine paying his asking prices for a watch with a dial that has so many obvious mistakes (some of the crowns are actually painful to look at)

Do you find that the good replica fliplocks are almost as good as the Gen clasp? after all there isnt much to it.

Lonnie

Functionally, some of the better rep bracelets are nearly as good as the gens. But if you know what to look for, there ARE small differences. For most higher quality rep watches, the rep bracelet is surprisingly good. But if you are going to the trouble of constructing a proper frankenwatch and you have reached the point where the bracelet becomes the weakest link, then I think it makes sense to pay the going rate for the gen parts.

I think you are right about it being Jensen. The 5-lines bridge looks like the one I got from him, but I paid alot less than $495!!

I have been on a similar search for a few months and the 93150 buckle itself (in good condition) often runs around $200. Of course, there are always exceptions to every rule, especially if you are patient and find yourself at the right time and place. But, on average, I have seen the bracelets going for between $550 and $950 recently.

It looks like a frankenwatch. The movement looks like a V730 (I think the V72C had microstella screws on the balance), but the components look too new for that age of a watch. Also, the seller sells aftermarket 'Rolex' parts for Valjoux movements and I would be very surprised if this watch did not contain some of his 'upgrades'. I doubt the watch would pass a Rolex inspection, if that is what you mean.

Stainless steel is shinier and, if you compare the two side by side, stainless tends to be cooler (bluish) and white gold tends to be warmer (reddish).

Buy from a seller with a large number of previous sales & 100% positive ratings, make sure the seller accepts Paypal (so you have some recourse if you find out later that the seller misled you and, if possible, at least until you've educated yourself to be able to tell the difference, pay a bit more for a crown in a sealed Rolex package. Of course, it is possible that an unscrupulous person could forge the package, but that is very unlikely to occur when dealing with someone with a perfect track record of customer satisfaction.

One of the telltale signs of a rep Triplock crown are the flatter & wider dots (the dots on gen crowns are smaller and more 3d).

The price is genuinely decent, but the parts are not genuine Rolex.

They look like the same cheap parts that most rep watches come with.

A Masterpiece.

But it MUST have an HeV and gen bracelet.

Did you spray on the matte varnish before or after applying the Night Color?

On the black lizard strap, it HAS to be the black bezel (6241). Nothing less will do.

With apologies to BMW, it is the ultimate timing machine

But on an oyster, the case is less black and white (no pun intended).

It would look something like this (though I would probably fit a folded link 7835)

The thing I find appealing about the 6239 (on an oyster) is that it is slightly stealthy. With the matching (to the case and oyster bracelet) silver bezel, the watch calls less attention to itself. At first glance, you might even miss the Newman dial (ok.....so maybe not, but you get the idea). And I think that gives the watch more credibility. On an oyster, the 6239 just looks more like a tool watch.

And, to be honest, after seeing Avitt's stunning 6265, it was impossible not to consider the silver bezel option.

As far as interchangeable bezels -- Well, if DW is ever actually able to get me the correct (6241) case (he just sent me the 2nd 6239 case by mistake), I will have a 6239 case & a 6241 case. But I only have 1 gen crown and 1 gen T21 crystal (I have additional generic parts for the 2nd watch), which will go on whichever of the 2 cases that ends up being my Main Squeeze. That way, if I feel the need to change, it is an easy job to shuttle the movement over to the other case for a night on the town.

Thanks Diesel.

So far, there seems to be unanimity for my original preference (black bezeled 6241).

If the watch is worn with a folded link 7835 bracelet instead of the black strap in the 2nd photo, would that make any difference?

I may be alone in this, but I do not think having a yellowish crystal makes a watch look more vintage or old or real. It is rare for a crystal to remain on a watch long enough to turn yellow, naturally. They almost always crack, leak or become too opaque (from scratches and wear) to see through before they will discolor. In almost 25 years of watch collecting (and growing up with a watchmaker in the family), I think I have seen only 3 discolored crystals, and 2 of those were artificially discolored (yours being the 3rd).

Thanks TeeJay.

Yes, I agree completely.

But I am not talking about adding anything that is not normally seen on a gen Newman. Of all the gen Newmans I have seen with black dials, most have been the black plastic bezeled 6241 models. I have only seen a couple of the silver metal bezeled 6239s. Although my original plan was to build a 6241, after seeing how the 6239 combination looks, I am no longer quite sure which model I prefer. At least with the black Newman dial, which is why I appreciate your comments.

Any others?

Tony -- My original plan was to do a 6241, but fate stepped in -- DW sent me the wrong bezel (metal instead of plastic) & case (a 6239 -- twice) and after trying the 6239 combination out, it started to grow on me. And then it occurred to me that there are fewer Newmans floating around with silver bezels than black. So I am wondering if that, alone, may give the watch a bit more credibility. What do you think?

I am having trouble deciding which model to construct - 6239 (silver bezel) or 6241 (black bezel)?

Which do you prefer and why?

(the only difference is the bezel)

I have purchased several vintage gen crowns on the bay. I got 1 lot of 12 Triplocks (702s & 703s) and a couple of Twinlocks, 1 used (awaiting an MBW 5514/5513)and 2 NOS (destined for Newmans). They show up from time to time.

Thanks Watcher. I will check with my local dealer. I believe the gen springbars are gold, which explains their expense.

here is a picture of my 1680 with genuine dial.

Are you sure that is a gen dial? Your pearl looks odd too.

Try ebay.com & ioffer.com & timeman.com & classicwatchparts.com

Note that most dials sold separately are 'repainted' and usually contain one or more inaccuracies. The trick is to select the dial (with the least objectionable (to you) mistakes) that fits your case. You may need to check with the seller to be sure his dial's dimensions (and location of dial feet -- the 2 pins on the dial's backside that orient the dial in the movement) match yours. Most repainted dials are meant to be fitted onto gen movements and the location of the dial feet nearly always differ from the location required by ETA and other movements used in rep watches.

I agree.

Unless you know what you are doing and have personally disassembled, reassembled (with all new gen seals, gaskets & proper sealants) and just water pressure-tested it, I would never swim, bath, shower or dive with any rep (or vintage gen) watch that is important to you. It is just too risky. Buy a Seiko or new gen Rolex for that.

The PMWF insert is what I used, but I replaced its crummy pearl with Ofrei's $10 Illumines Dot (bezel insert pearl).

Click the following link and look for this entry near the bottom of the page

The gen crystal is always best, but it is expensive and may not be as reliable due to its age (the Plexiglas material will likely have lost some of its elasticity over the years). Clark's T39 superdome is reasonably priced and, although it slightly refracts images that pass through it, looks (from the outside) almost exactly like the gen lens

In general, I would recommend that you hone in on one or two gen watches of the same vintage and design (some differences may only be apparent to you after alot of study and examination) and use those as your model. I would recommend doubleredseadweller.com as the place to begin since it explains many of the basic model and range variations. After that, Antiquorum is a good place to continue your 'studies'. There are many tutorials written by RWG members that will help to guide you through most of what you need to know.