rangers158

The only problem with the tumbler method is that you probably have to refinish the bracelet again. The metal parts should have gone through this process with ceramic to take off the sharp edge before it is assembled and finish. Cost-cutting measures for rep makers...

Another one just touched down. Definitely the version to get. AR as what Lani has said is a little yellowish. Same as that of the recent OmegaPO chrono. Think the crystal is probably from the same factory. AR tint is light blue and not the dark blue on HBBs.

The 7750 movement already too thick. With the mod to 3, it is way thicker than gen which uses another movement. I think it 2892 with a chrono module. Thickness looks ridiculous IMHO...

The old ones are better than this new ones. Especially the dial. The hour markers are too near the rehaut. Date window looks bad as well. Best to snag the old defunct version if you want one of these.

the gv is as good as it can be. the latest also has only one position when you pull out the crown which is same as gen. it also does not appears to scratch. not too sure the green tint is on top or below the crystal.

Probably the chamber is lower pressure than the watch. Since inside of the watch is higher pressure than the chamber, the air will move out of the case into the chamber filled with water if there is a leak. Water will also not flow into the watch due to the presuure difference. Hence, movement remains dry.

More Omnia watch shots...

Taken with Samsung Omnia. Busy Carrera, Lazy 111 and Smurfy Blue...

Yes, 100% asian. The bridge and engravings are really good on this latest movement.

Custom built by myself with the best parts from various versions. Thats why it is called mashed-up PAM111H...

Great work. But don't use super glue as it tend to give off a white vapour as it dries and this might show up on the glass.

Thanks. Would certainly love gen if it is reasonably priced. But looking at the softer 2nd hand market now for watches, a gen 111 might be a better option.

Ya, CG is key. Hope someone could make more of these CGs since V sold out on these. LH CG is still not good enough but its cheaper though...

Got a couple of DSNs, the crown is not really thick and the reccessed area at the top is too shallow. The hole to screw in the stem on the crown is sometimes not drilled perpendicular. Case is sometimes wrong as seen in his 177 making the crown not centered on the crownguard. Dial is also completely off in terms of the position of the number markers. Though rep dial is not perfect but it definitely look better than DSN.

The shape of the crownguard is totally wrong on this one. It is also too small and has a weird looking lever. Crown and Dial looks really good though. Movement is great, the new asian 21.6k movement with engraved bridge.

As many who lust for a proper Panerai 111H would know, this damn piece is never going to be replicated right. And over the years, I have collected so many variants of this model. From DSN's look gen but then seriously bad quality to Puretime famous PAMM111E accurate model, Rep factory's super thin crown models, I have it all. Recently, the newest version of the PAM11H apparently has been improved significantly. Case with very defined edges, Crown with the correct bevel and thickness and new asian movement that has good engraving. But the one thing that still sucks is the crown guard. Lume is also too greenish. I decided to see what I can do to make the ultimate PAM111H. So I took the new version, swap in a superlume rep dial and hands with more accurate lume colour, and most importlantly installed a V's crownguard. Installing the crownguard, is really long patient work. It took me over 2 days to put a proper finish to V's crownguard, fit it to the case (this takes the most time), level and polish the CG pin. The rep crown is really good. It is 1.9mm like gen, the bevel angle is correct and it has 48 teeths!. Did the factory copied T48??? Here is the final result... What do you think? The best it can get for now?

I should be able to make it this week. Is the gathering set?

Posting on a gen forum is a no no. Are you trying to kill the hobbly and let the whole legal machinery of the watch industry unleash their wrath on our forums and factories? A rep is a rep and these watches allow us to enjoy the world of horology without breaking the bank. Please spare a thought about the community!

Yep, this is the CHS. Newer versions should have this problem rectified by the factory. Early adopters helped others to sort out the problems.

Sanding is definitely the safer option but I gues the sand paper must be at least 600-800 grade since the ring is really not that big. Also, in my case, the thicker portion is actually cause by bad moulding. There is a thin protruding layer of nylon perpendicular to the width of the gasket. It is similar to the excess plastic on the edge of a badly moulded toy. So for my case, I used a penknife to thin it instead.

As any early GMT owners would know, some watches came with unevenly pressed crystal, usually higher on the 3 o'clock and lower at the 9 'clock side. For some, it is an easy fix of simply pressing the higher side in. For others who are not so lucky, it is not possible to press it in without removing the crystal and sitting it properly. Then the problem that exist for many owners is how do you remove the crystal? This has to be done either via removing the entire bezel or the ceramic bezel. Removing the ceramic bezel seems to be the easier way since the bezel construction is a little different from the normal submariner bezels. But removing the ceramic bezel does pose some challenges in removing it cleanly and safely without destroying it in the process. One of my principle when working on watches is that if you do not want to scar, scratch or ruin the case, you have to preferrably use tools that are softer than the material you are getting in contact with. To remove the ceramic bezel, some have suggested and used a penknife to pry it out. That got to be the most risky thing to do cause any slip will probably mean damage to the steel or bezel. Even if you do not slip, the contact between metal and metal is likely to cause scratches. Through trial and error, I find that using a piece of stiff plastic to wedge the bezel off is the best method for me. The piece of plastic I use happens to be from my shirt's collar. Using the gap between the bezel and the crystal, insert the plastic and work your way around the bezel. The bezel is attached using double sided tape and therefor it is quite easy to separate it. Once the bezel is removed, you can simply press out the crystal from the inside. The root of the problem of the uneven crystal becomes clear. I did not take any pics for this. The problem is really the nylon gasket. It is uneven in thickness and hence causing one side to be higher. What I did was to use a penknife to delicately thin out the thicker section of the nylon gasket. This has to be done very carefully or you might risk cutting through te gasket or making it too thin to hold the crystal properly. Once pressed in properly with the reworked gasket, it is absolutely flat. I have also removed the double sided tape and use clear 2-part epoxy to re-attach the bezel. By doing so, the bezel is more recessed and looks more gen. All this just shows that with a little more care and QC, the factory could have prevented some of these agonies for their customers. Hope the information will help other GMT owners to get the most out of their watches... Enjoy the pics...

Yes, thats what King said as well. However, do note that the 2 piece replacement caseback will probably not fit as well. For the 1 piece caseback, it does not has the groove for the rubber gasket to sit in. So even if you get the 2 piece subsequently, it is not going to fit properly.

Nope this is not the V4 people are talking about. V4 has thicker bezel fonts and all V3 features. According to the dealer, there is a batch of single caseback for asian 2836 movement floating around. So it is V3 and it is probably due to the factory going cheap on us. So please check when you get any of these.

Just use your fingers to move the pearl about a little. It will break off. The factory glue is not that strong. Then use 2-part clear epoxy to glue the pearl back in place.

If you look at this pic from another review in RWI the case construction differs from yours but similar to the one I received. Only difference is it has 2 piece caseback. Got this from King.