Small diameter end mills that size have very short cut lengths, so the way he did it was correct. Even if it were long enough it would definately break because of the grade of stainless steel. You'd have to use carbide end mills and those go for like $50 each, imagine breaking one or two. I would have done it the same way. Good work.
that should work as long as there's metal left. One thing you never want to do with delicate threads is force it if it hits resistance. Just be careful and you should be OK.
That sucks because I just ordered the same watch from Andrew, but the 2009 numerals version. Mine was +17sec/day but he said he was going to regulate it before he sent it out after I asked. It's still on the way now, I'm expecting it maybe the end of next week. Whatever if it breaks I'll get a new movement, the gen was $4200. I'll still save money
I don't think that would be an easy watch to replicate. Doesn't that have the full glass caseback? Easy to spot a fake with the movement exposed like that.
Don't shoot the messenger, that's just stuff I found. I suspect that the 2008 and 2009 is the same watch the only difference being batons and numerals.
more info I found:
Ultimate version (the best of both is the batton dial) are great quality and take genuine parts including genuine bezel. These have a better AR coating on the crystal then the V2 and as far as I'm aware there are no issues with crown tube stripping. Water tightness may be an issue on these as the quality of construction isn't as good as the 2009 version imo.
2009 Version (or V2) are better constructed, they also take most genuine parts but the bezel is a pain in the backside to remove. The case construction of these is more solid then the V3 and imo better to a certain extent. The dials aren't very accurate but with genuine dials going from $150 that isn't much of an issue anymore. The AR coating isn't as good as the V3 but the tint is more gen like. There have been issues with the crown tube stripping on these models.
According to this link, the one that Andrew recommended is the V2 (on Josh's site)
Andreww (the other one) had confirmed to me in another thread that the 2009 version was the V2
I asked Andrew which out of these 2 watches is the V2 and the V3 and this was his reply:
http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=3176
http://www.yourtrustytime.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_137&products_id=7080
"Those so called versions are actually termed and coined by the small amateur dealers who don't even know who the factories are... This model is from the noob factory and quality is good. I look forward to serving you soon. The 2nd link one is better. Many thanks."
I'm really not sure what to make of that.
Alex I'm in the same boat as you, looking to order soon. I want a black V2 with numerals. I would ask Andrew at yourtrustytime, he's good about responding quickly. Andrew lists the 2008s as having the bars on the dial and the 2009s as having the numerals. Then there's the "ultimate" version of the watch which I heard was a V3.
Please keep us up to date on what you decide to do. I was going to ask Andrew these questions myself but was going to wait until I ordered. I promised myself I wouldn't order till my birthday in a couple weeks.
Nice watch, is that the ~$300 one or the ~$400 one with the more accurate black color? One thing that jumped out to me was that it says one the back a limited edition of 3000. Wasn't the edition only 2000? Not that it matters anyways.