Ephry73

Looks awesome and no issues with having to change the date so I am sure it's even better for longevity. How big is the crown on that one? Do you have a shot of the crown tube? I amy just order on of his to replace my daily wearer. E

I know this is an old thread, but what size dials are being used in those 5514s? E

Looks really good. Side shots? Water tightness? E

Where can one find one of these springs? E

Reviving an old post. Love the watches. Did the crownguard need that much work? What model number plexi did you guys end up with finally? I may order one of these and have fun wearing them. E

Other than the case, who sells or has for sale 26mm dials? or 26.5mm? I have a very nice 5514 case and the dials I have are 1.5mm too wide for it. Fits, but the swiss made is half covered by the rehaut. E

Look at it like this, some people pay really good money for a Pollock painting and others would see it as kid's play. E

Great to know. Thanks for the tip that was simple enough. I will be dismantling the 2873 movement first as it seems to be the better of the two to clean and then see. Just waiting for the oils I ordered. Missing two according to one of the lists. Should I always replace the main spring when doing overhauls or just "dip" and lube? E

One last question. I finally received the ultrasonic cleaner and it works. What chemicals should I combine to clean, remove rust or oil deposits? Other than the "store purchase" expensive gallon size only ones advertised in all of the horologists websites. E

seriously : my current 1675 production is not issue from cut sub cases or SD. I just upgrade my technics and knowledge from days to days. I don't sell anything here, I build and sell for collectionnors -not anals- paying a lot to have a close to perfect replica. My project is simple and doesnt need masturbation to be clear : a 5512 or 5513 or 1680 is actually around 5000 euros, or more, here in Europe. I can build such a watch with gen parts and movement for less than 2000 euros. I take a 1000 euros profit, and people have a perfect watch for 3000 euros instead of 5000 (and for 5000, most of the time you have a mix of gen and rep parts) Hope its clear, for me it is. And I have customers.

The prices for the Yuki cases is high, but if the quality is the same as Gen, and the fit is equal, then its worth it. What was that Johnny Cash song's name? "One piece at a time"?

I think it's the capitalist way. If I spend my money, time and intellectual energy building something that is inspired by that which is no longer made, then my time and effort, plus the cost of the parts shall be compensated. If someone wants to give me more than that, then good. This is me just playing Devil's advocate now. If I save someone time and make them happy by doing this, then even better. One can never recover from restoring a Ford Maverick and spending a ton of money on it, or an old lady getting a boob job when she still on a walker. Life is funny like that. Now, when the cases that sale for thousands of dollars are no better than ones that can be purchased for a hundred or a few hundred, then its the buyer's fault for allowing, and sponsoring such behavior. E

It's not bad to get the best you can afford. Though sometimes it is a bit crazy to see how expensive these rep cases go for. Kinda like a Pontiac Fiero Lambo kit. Looks good on paper but the drive is definitely not the same. Personally, If the build is done to prove a point, or to better the original article and thus improve performance and have something unique that no one else has, then go for it. E

Would be nice to see the watch and before you get it in the water, please epoxy shut the EV and make sure to silicone grease the o'rings. E

So the Cartel cases take Gen parts as well? Any particular cases/gen ones? E

Are the Phong Cases as expensive as the Yuki ones? E

Cannot wait for a different supplier. These cases are being produced every day. E

Thanks a million Man. E

Now I know what I want for a "dress-up" watch E

I was just checking their listings. Too large a size for chemicals. Appreciate the info. E

I was afraid of that. I guess with the right diagrams it cannot be that hard. I will need to find a source for lubricants though. E

I have two ETA movements that look as if they have been exposed to light moisture a LOOOONG time ago. Both seem to work for a little bit but I have to hand wind them. One(ETA 2873) will take the hand wind, but unwind immediately (takes three seconds to loose all motion) i'm hoping its just a case of cleaning and oiling. The other one(ETA 2846) seems to have a rusted stem(outside of the movement is pitted where it goes inside the movement it's pristine) and this one spins and engages all functions, but won't take a charge) Any ideas? I wanted to know if just alcohol to clean the auto wind will help loosen things up, or if I need to get more specialized chemicals(I think I know the answer) I know movements are not too expensive, but if I can do it myself, and learn, I think it will be more than worth it. I tried to play around with DG2813 movements and not too complicated to take apart(hummm) I would like to use these two movements on a seamaster300 military project and the other on a 5514 project. I frankly don't care if the date wheel is there or not. any sites where I can get diagrams or step-by-step would be ideal. Thanks a bunch. E

Did this solve the problem? I have two ETA movements that look as if they have been exposed to light moisture a LOOOONG time ago. Both seem to work for a little bit but I have to hand wind them. One(ETA 2873) will take the hand wind, but unwind immediately (takes three seconds to loose all motion) i'm hoping its just a case of cleaning and oiling. The other one(ETA 2846) seems to have a rusted stem(outside of the movement is pitted where it goes inside the movement it's pristine) and this one spins and engages all functions, but won't take a charge) Any ideas? E

Old thread I know, but how did the watch come out? E

Indeed. I will post a report of it. E