Finepics

Thanks for the help on this guys. I am actually looking for the logo used in the 1930-40's so I think the pics Sherrington posted will do. Only thing I could tell from the photo of the watch I am interested in is that the X and the E are quite different, but since my project will be somewhat unique I don't think anyone would know. I don't want to give away too much at the moment but you all know where my interests lie so that might give you a clue!!!!

Hi Ubi - Vintage actually. Got an interestin porject on the go so this would be a great help.

Tell you what - cover my postage, unless you are in London (you could pick it up then it'll cost you a beer) and it's yours. Then when you get a decent rep you can send it to me for a proper PVD coating (if you do this you must get a polished SS case type).

Well it just so happens that I have a black CG here for exactly the same type of PAM in mint condition, make me an offer!!! You should really take a look at a real PVD coated case as the difference is staggering. The one you have is some kind of paint finish I think.

It is the same but undecorated. What sort of chopping were you going to do?

Does anyone have a high res scan of an older Rolex dial or know what font they use?

It is an asian movt. The "tourbillon" is simply the balance wheel bridge and is a normal design. The rotor is certainly styled on the ETA 2893. There is nothing special about this movt at all.

Hang on - V haven't you got the wrong country!!!

Aha!!! How about that!!! I'm sure he will not mind. It was more a problem if it was someone trying to scam sell!!

Thanks for all the compliments guys - the thing you have to remember is that Rolex do not hand lume their markers. They are all machine made on highly specialised equpiment and this cannot be nearly as well reproduced when luming by hand. Really the only solution to this would be to source an original dial - this is why Frankenwatches are the Rolls royce of reps - so to speak!!

Marco don't worry - he is looking for this type of calibre. Bad to use your photos without permission but he's not selling anything. I suspect it might be a board member as the coincidence is too great - in fact Dutch is that you???. Babelfish translates it to say: I am in search of Cortebert pocket watch Cal. 616 or 618. in any state welcome

In order to make this with a 7753 they just need to make a new dial and make a functional date pusher - I cannot see why they would need to make a new case.

The best way to get a Patina on the MF 1942 is to soak it, dry it (with a hair dryer) then soak it and dry again. Then rub and rub and rub with thumbs (you will get sore fingers) and watch the glossy shine appear. This will age it years in a day. You should not really oil leather. The best Patina I have ever seen is on the old horse leather WW2 US A2 flying jackets and I know they should never be oiled.

It used to be that the so called AR on the original PAM 111 was just a blue tint rather than a full AR coat so I suspect that this is what is being used. The AR I offer is the purple type but I will enquire about the blue coating and let you know on Monday.

Jon and David - if you want the ultimate fiddy then don't get the capped hands - they are very obviously wrong. Get the short tube Davidsen hands (Jon you already have these still?) and get the cannon pin upgraded to the correct height. I have some in stock so Pm me if you are interested.

Why dont you just get the existing crystal AR'd? I am offering this service at £45.

Marco - thanks for that, it was a pleasure to do yours!!

Davidsen was selling them for this but initially they were ina gloss finish. I did tell him they should be matte but not sure if he still has them.

Not sure that only one guy gets it right!!!! I also have the Vintage Rolex lume in stock.

Its a combination of both things. When the gens are lumed they are done by machine and there are certain machine application varnish/binders that are mixed with the lume powder that give a glossy finish. This is not possible when applying lume by hand as different varnish/binders have to be used so after the lume has dried it will be matte. Then a coat of the varnish needs to be applied over the lume which will give the gloss finish to it. Hand application will never be as good as a machine finish so it should be borne in mind as we all have a tendancy to examine our reps under magnification where, of course, any faults will be more apparent. But under the naked eye they should not be that visible. A rep is a rep so if perfection is what you want then buy the gen.

Jon I was not criticising you so please don't take my comments the wrong way. It's all very well doing your own mods but you should take more time to do research on this sort of thing. I was merely pointing out for other readers that these hands are designed to be used on a movt that has had the cannon pin and hour wheel changed and not as a straight replacement for the rep hands. As you rightly mention these will get rid of the recess issue (which is the result of the rep hands having a longer tube to compensate for the shorter cannon pin) but only on the non sub seconds type watches. To do this upgrade properly the cannon pin and hour wheel must be changed. However if you are not concerned about the lume of the rep dial and hands then all that is needed is to keep the rep hands and file down the tube on the minute hand only to .44mm - then the recess will disappear anyway.

Then why buy his hands?

Davidsens hands are meant to fit the correct height cannon pinion and hour wheel which is why they do not fit your watch. The rep hands have the extra length of tube on them so they clear the dial with the standard short cannon pin/hour wheel. It's not Davidsens fault at all. Do half the job and you will get half the results.

Exactly!!!

I don't think davidsen makes them - rather that he sources them. Also this crystal has a silvered edge to it and that adds to the costs.