lello

Hi all, I was supposed to receive the print proof today..., but the [censored]ing postman had somewhere better place to go ... I really hpe they will get here tomorrow. By the way, as I needed for myself and a friend of mine, but as I also received recently some enquires for this, while the printer was working on the Inge dw prints, I also made some 2893 Dws as well. In case somebody would be interested... -- Lello.

I spoke on friday to the printer. The overlays have been made already. They had a problem to receive the plates to make cliches, but they received them on friday. They will be printing the proofs during this coming week. So, hopefully I should be able to show you the shoots in a week time. We are really close now... I will let you posted. -- Lello.

Maybe it does, but I was referring to any other crystal...

My ears were picking up a strange yawl in the air.... So here is the update you were asking me: Printer is printing out the Inge DW proof, during this week. Let's just hope they will be ok at the first trial. WE ARE GETTING THERE!!!! For the ones interested to the new DWs for the Breitling EVO... ...Please, help me to get some good reference pics of the numbers font, so that I will start producing those as well.

Hi, I have a question, hoping that some of you guys, could know the answer: As you know, the printer is going to make the overlays for this Inge DW. The brass foil they are going to use, are 0,20 mm thick, while the actual overlays are 0,15 mm thick. Would you think that a 0,05 mm of more thickness could be a problem?

I will know about the exact cost, later on today, or tomorrow, but I don't think the total cost will be more than 45 Euros.

PLEASE, SEE THE NEWS ON THE FIRST POST OF THIS THREAD!

I have a very good friend of mine, who works in the optical industry. He told me he has constant relations with manufactures which can mke AR and he asked them, if they could do it on watch crystals. The answer was YES, they just need to make a special part, to let the machine working on watch crystals, which are smaller than optical lens, but they are willing to do it. The cost would be something around 25-30 Euros each, depending on the number of pieces. -- Lello.

Ok, I could let the printer making a test on your DW then... There is no risk on it, as we could re print it again and again, in case it doesn't come right.

If the dealer would be willing to sell spare DW, as Uziuzi said he is trying, it would solve all the matters... Otherwise, no problems for me to make a couple of tests first. Replacing a DW it is something that ANY watchsmith could be able to do..., I don't think there are watchsmith that only work on quartz...

Hi guys, sorry if I didn't post any update for a while. It was due to the difficulties I found, in getting the overlays for these DWs. In fact I didn't find a solution for this. So, the only way we have, it's for you guys to send me your DWs and I will re print them directly. For whom of you this is a little problem, because you need help to disassembling and re mounting it on the watch, in the US there is Redbigjoe who is willing to care about it. It would be a good thing to have several watches handled by a single person there, because we could make just a few multiple shippings, by Fed ex, this way we would avoid any risk of shipping problems. For the ones who prefer doing themselves, no problems though. I just would prefer not to be responsible in case of lost packages, because this way, I couldn't solve the problem, just sending another DW, so let's try to find the safest way. To make this working, we should decide a date around which all the members interested, should send away the Dws, so that they wouldn't come little by little and people wouldn't be waiting too long. Any suggestion will be wellcome to handle the process. In the meanwhile, just let me know whom of you is willing to do this way, as we need to be at least 20 people..., better if more. Please, do not PM me, it's enough to post here. In case you really need to send me a message, please use the email way: submersible611@yahoo.com Thank you.

First thing we have to look at, to understand if we are in front of a scam rep site, is the pics of the products. Scam sites often show pics of the genuine watches, as in this case. Regarding to fix the problem, if it looses 20 minutes per day, it's not something you can fix by the regulator. There might be something wrong inside. If you are lucky, you could solve the matter disassembling the whole moviment and clean all parts, then re assembling everything carefully, by an expert watchsmith. Good luck!

I'm checking uot if members are willing to send their DWs. I understand your concerns about the no way back. I'm still valueing if it's possible to make new discs, to glue on the actual blank DWs (that I already bought), in this case you wouldn't need to send away your DWs. Pleaase allow me a couple of days to find out. What we could do otherwise, is making a test on an average Dw with same size, to see the print quality and only after you will decide if sending yor DWs. Although this will expose me to many expences, with blank discs, cliché, proofs etc... I want to bring this project ahead, so we will work it out. In the meanwhile, any suggestion will be wellcome.

Ok my friends..., it's time to think about going ahead on this project. In the meanwhile, I did receive a bunch of several blank discs of the 2824 mov. Only after that, I discovered that the rep's DW, has an overlay on it, to enlarge the diameter and match the date window that sits more externally on dial. I believe that the best way to solve the matter, is for you to send me the rep's DWs and I will re print the new font over. I hope you will be willing to do this way. Please let me know what you all think.

To take away the cyclops, just put it on a flame for around 45-50 secs and usually it drifts away. To replace the new one, I use a Seiko double component glue, special for crystals of course. To remove exceeding glue, use acetone and a little blade to help with the hard one.

Ok, it's clear now that not all the recent reps, have good CG though. Maybe I was lucky that my 063 bought last year and my 199 and 090, just got from Joshua, have good CGs too. That's why I took for granted that all recent CGs were well made. I agree with you about the Daylight CG... I was just wondering if the recent new Daylights, have better crown, or if it's the same as the one on 196 and 188. Ok, it's clear now that not all the recent reps, have good CG though. Maybe I was lucky that my 063 bought last year and my 199 and 090, just got from Joshua, have good CGs too. That's why I took for granted that all recent CGs were well made. I agree with you about the Daylight CG... I was just wondering if the recent new Daylights, have better CG, or if it's the same as the one on 196 and 188.

I was careful to take the stem out, when it was in the inside position. It's happened when I put it back, as it didn't go easily and when it went through, something happened. I will have to wait after Christmas to go to the watchsmith then...

Question for the technical guys... I was changing crown to my new Pam 199 with asian 7750 and while I was inserting the stem, I guess a wheel went wrong and now the watch doesn't run anymore. The stem go inside and when I pull it out, it makes the first click, but the date it's blocked. No way to pull it out further to move the hands. But when it is all inside, if you turn the crown, all seams fine, as all wheels seams to work and winding. Do I need to disassembling the bridges to re set up the little wheels around the stem, or is there any way to solve it, without disassembling it? Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

Hi Rob and all other technicians, I was changing crown to my new Pam 199 with asian 7750 and while I was inserting the stem, I guess a wheel went wrong and now the watch doesn't run anymore. The stem go inside and when I pull it out, it makes the first click, but the date it's blocked. No way to pull it out firther to move the hands. But when it is all inside, if you turn the crown, all seams fine, as all wheels seams to work and winding. Do I need to disassembling the bridges to re set up the little wheels around the stem, or is there any way to solve it, without disassembling it? Thanks in advance for any suggestion.

I realized I forgot to indicate the thickness of both CGs. (now I updated the pic) The thing is that they are the same thickness of 6,70 mm. So, I still don't see where the Jimmy's could be better, with the exception of the rubber shell around pin. If gen. CGs size changes depending on production's year, it might be possible that both CGs are correct then. It looks to me that the differences are not relevant to justify a 50$-60$ expense. Spare CGs would be very useful, only if you damage the one you have. What else I can say is, any time I look at a gen Pam CG, my eye is immediately captured by the pin's head. At least on the recent models, can't say exactly why and what, but there's something different that makes them recognizable at the first look...

I agree on the lever not being loose, but can you tell me where the rep's CG is skinny? Did you observe my pics?

Hi all, I didn't know how to spend one hour ... and I decided to make this post about the comparison of the last generation Pam's crown guards and the Jimmyzfu's ones. The other day, a member told me that Jimmy's CG were far better than the standard CG coming with the reps. I was surprised about this, because I remember I was the first one on RWG, two years a go, to buy two CGs from Jimmy and although at that time, it was surely much better than the rep's CG, I immediately spotted that there was less room for the crown. Somebody might remember that my crowns for manual winding Pams, had some troubles, right because in some cases crown went touching the CG room edge, on the outer position to regulate the time. That was mainly due to the fact that my crowns were sprung. Now, with the great Palp crowns, although they have no spring inside, they are 0,2 thicker and so, better if we have more room there anyway. Jimmy's CGs are good, but not better than the last generation rep CG. I'm just wondering why this legend. One advantage on Jimmy's CG, is the rubber shell around the pin to avoid the lever being loose. Jimmy's CG is generally slightly smaller than the rep's one. Another thing that it's very important in my opinion, is the size and flatness of pin's head. I noticed that on my last two Pams I just purchased, the pin it's not very flat on top and this is not a good thing, but all the rest it's the same as on this one I used here for the comparison, that came with my 2893 Pam 063 I bought last year and the pin here it's slightly wider and quite flat and these are both very good things. I know Jimmy's CGs are not available anymore and so, no problems to say our opinion on this. Unfortunately, I don't own a gen Pam yet, to compare these ones to a gen CG. It would be great if one of the guys who can, could compare their gen to these measures I posted and tell us which one is closer.