jj69

The strap? What's different about the strap? Why would they change it?

I should throw this story in here. Has anyone tried to buy a Monster at one of those Seiko Outlet stores? They always want some outrageous price for the Monsters, usually between $230 and $350, depending on the current sale. The only time I ever saw them at a remotely reasonable price was the week before Father's Day, when they were charging $180 after all the special markdowns. Still too high IMO for a watch you can order from Singapore or Hong Kong any day of the week for $150. Anyway, I stopped in the Seiko outlet last week hoping for a holiday sale. The Monsters were $230. I told the saleswoman that was too high and I mentioned that even Amazon has the Black Monster with bracelet for $152. When she expressed doubt about the low price, I took a printout of the Amazon site from my pocket. That's when the BS started... She gave me this song and dance about the watches on Amazon being "fakes." She even relayed a story about "a customer" who sent his Monster to Seiko for service, only to find that the movement was not genuine, and Seiko refused to service it. Does anyone know if there is even a grain of truth to this? A. Why would a major retalier like Amazon even consider selling fake watches? B. Why would anyone bother to rep a $150 watch in the first place? C. Who would send a $150 Seiko back to the manufacturer for a "service"? D. Why do sales clerks make up silly stories like this?

You're right, Victoria. I just edited my post to correct that. That $219 package is not worth it. You can buy a low-end Hong Kong watch tool kit on the Bay for like $12. It will include the tools shown, along with many others. I'm waiting for Amazon to have 20% off all Seiko again.

I have to throw my two cents in here. The bracelet screws on this watch are a CATASTROPHE. I have two VCO's. On BOTH OF THEM, the screw in the half-link was so badly seized taht I had to have the half-link sawed in half to get it out of the braelet. Virtually every screw I've touched in that bracelet is now screwed up in some way. My second VCO is in even worse shape. I got it used and the bracelet was sized too small for me. No dealer can source additional links, and the want you to buy the whole bracelet and case (for more than I paid for the watch) to get extras. It's a real shame because it's a beautiful rep, especially the Gen2. It's just a complete waste of money due to that joke of a bracelet.

Jamie, Have you contacted watchmark about that quartz model? It looks like the same case as the standard HBB rep. I wonder if it's made by the same factory???

Pug, Where do you see the Orange Monster on Amazon for $140??? I see it at $183.95 with bracelet or $164.95 with rubber strap. I know they had a 20% of Seiko sale that I *** JUST MISSED *** last week (bracelet version would have been $147). Waiting for them to re-run that one. If I'm missing something and you can really get it for $140, please provide a link! TIA

Kruzer, All gen Aquanauts I have seen have a center seconds hand. Are you sure you are not thinking of the Nautilus? As far as I know, the MBW Aquanaut comes only with a rubber strap. Unfortunately, a bracelet is not available. Thanks, Joe

I know about Paso and TTK, but netiher have the Aquanaut Jumbo. Are these the only two dealers carrying the real MBW models, or am I missing someone?

The cheapest I see on eBay is $9 shipped, which I guess is okay. However, once I have the donor bezel, how do I get the pearl out of it without destroying it?

I have a very nice Sandoz (Singapore) sub style watch. The bezel pearl fell out and it's lost. I just need a replacement pearl. I don't want to go through the aggravation of replacing the whole ring, especially as mine is still mint. Does someone sell bezel pearls separately? I'm not too fussy either - I just want something cheap that won't cost $30 to import from Asia.

If you look at the photos on her web site, the watch pictured appears to have the horrendous 21,6 beat 7750 movement. Beware. You have been warned.

Zeus, what are you trying to say? What is a "clione"? If you mean "clone" referring to the Asian 2824 movement, she does have them in stock.

So has anyone gotten the Asian 2824 version from King yet? I would be all over it if she had the blue dial version. She has black on her site, and blue with diamonds (yuck). I e-mailed her to ask if she can get the blue, but no reply yet. Anyone?

I'm guessing both of yours have Seconds at 6 (can't really see the black one)? I was looking at a Seconds at 9 model. I don't think Andrew carries any with Seconds at 9, but I know Josh does. Anyone else?

Does anyone here have a Silix-Prime Daytona? I'm considering one. Their prices are great ($180 - $205). I'm probably going to go with a Seconds-At-9 model (even though the hour markers on the dial are wrong for that version). If anyone has one, what is the quality like? Which version do you have? I just cannot figure out whether the Silix Daytona's use the high beat 28,8 movement or the old 21,6??? It seems like Silix uses slightly different descriptions for the movement in each Daytona, as follows: "Asia Valjoux 7750 - New" "Automatic Asia 7750 25j" "Asian 7750 Automatic" "Asian Valjoux 7750 Automatic" "Modified Asia Valjoux 7750 - New" Are any of these secret code for "High beat 28,8 7750"???

This is the funniest paragraph I've read all year. THANKS!

Wow, if there's now a second factory making these, then that is great news! The Angus/Trusty/Josh "lite version" is supposed to have the horrendous 21,6 movement with sapphire crsytal, but no AR. If Silix's version does indeed have the 28,8 movement and sapphire, then it's a no-brainer! The only difference between the Silix version and the $450+ version is the lack of AR (which I can surely live without). I may actually get that weird soccer edition just for the heck of it. I don't like PVD bezel on the other model.

Below is a photo of the three parts that make up the pusher button mechanism for the Ferrari 008. The part to the far right is obviously the button itself. The part in the center is a shock absorber-like spring. The part to the left is just a cylindrical metal "plug" that fits into a hole in the A7750 movement. When you depress the button, the shock absorber exerts pressure on the plug, which in turn pressess the button inside the movement. I need the two parts cirlced in red (the shock absorber and the plug). Apparently, the factory that makes the 008 refuses to sell these parts separately, so I'm going to have to scavenge them from another dead watch. Does anyone know if the Ferrari 008 is the ONLY watch that uses these parts? The push-buttons on the Ferrari look similar to those on some other A7750 based Pam (like the Luminor Flyback chronos). If anyone knows if any other Pam models use these same parts, PLEASE LET ME KNOW. Alternatively, is anyone sitting on extras of these parts? I need only one of each. TIA

Thanks! Is it possible to push too far? How careful should I be when pressing the button?

Anyone know if there's a good step-by-step guide to removing a standard 2824 movement from a watch case, either here on RWG or anywhere else on the web? I looks pretty straightforward, but I've never done it before and I don't want to make any rookie mistakes. I recall seeing a post that specified the exact size screwdriver blade used to depress the crown release button without destroying the keyless works. I just can't locate that post anymore. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

I have a 3717 pilot's chrono with the Asian 7750 running at 21,600 bps (unfortunately). Whenever I wind it (about 20 turns) and set the time, it begins to run VERY fast. It seems to gain about 3-4 minutes in the first 15 minutes after it is wound. After that, it seems to settle down a bit, but it continues too run fast. I showed it to a local watchsmith. He put it on his timing machine and immediately said, "This thing is running a lot faster than 21,6!" He demagged it, but that didn't help. He even removed the balance wheel assembly to make absolutely sure the spring wasn't magnetized (it wasn't). He eventually said, "I've never seen anything like this." His best guess is that there's something seriously wrong with the mainspring. He suggested that it's possible they simply put the wrong mainspring in the movement when they assembled it. Has anyone else ever seen this happen with the current version of the 21,6 7750 movement? Does anyone have any ideas? I suppose I should start saving up for a Swiss 7750.

What did you use to clean off the glue?

I've now wasted a total of two hours of my life trying to get just ONE SIDE of the nylon strap on the Inge. I'm now convinced it's impossible. No matter what I do, every time I try to push the pin through the strap, it simply will not line up with the hole in the case . I've already bent one of the pins. Luckily, the metal is so soft I was able to bend it back into shape. I'm about THIS close to chucking the watch and strap in the trash. There HAS TO BE a trick to this. Suggestions welcome...

I noticed that Silix has this watch listed with either 2892 ($250.00) [but OUT OF STOCK] or with 2824 ($150.00). Does anyone have the 2824 version? Does anyone know if the movement is the ONLY difference between these two models? Is the case, bracelet, dial and everything else identical? If they're the same watch with only a different movement, then I'd say the 2824 is the better bargain at $100 less. Couldn't you just swap out the movement for a 2892 later if you really want one?

What do the two chrono pusher buttons do? What is the case size? 44mm or 41mm? What is the case made from? It can't be real ceramic for that price???