atomic_doug

Thanks. I decided non-matching was the way to go. I was very nervous painting the dial and I still haven't varnished it. FGD dials may be quite tough, but varnishing is that step you can never un-do.

Not to sound like a n00b. (Though I totally am one.) What is the MBW case? I've looked around the forum and have never really found a simple answer. Is MBW a person? Is it just a 5513 super case or are there lots of different MBW cases? I take it from the tones of hushed reverence used when speaking of it that it's no longer available.

My word! That's unbelievable! Keep us posted!

(I'm not thread-bumping, but I don't seem to have an edit button anymore.) Update: I re-painted the dial, and now I think it looks a lot better. It's actually paint-filled-looking and you can see the reflections of the numbers in the rehaut. The numbers look fatter too.

Hi guys and gals, I hate to pile on and add another "hey my 201/A project is done too!" thread but...well, hey, my 201/A project is done as well. I did all the work myself, but I'd have no idea how to do any of it if not for the great info on this forum. The specs: Unknown case (might be an old DSN) with no strap-notch. C3 crystal (without AR, of course) FGD dial Gen service hands ETA 6497-1 movement Gen crown with DSN round tube DSN CG DSN caseback The work: Case reshaped to have softer edges and shoulders, lugs drilled out and reshaped to 'drop off' Rehaut polished Canon pin flattened CG reshaped and pin flattened (and given a circular graining) Pressure tested to 100m. It's probably got more in it, but I don't dive. I haven't varnished the dial yet because I'm still deciding on whether or not to paint the indices a different color. It doesn't look quite right to me. Maybe I've just been staring at it too long. Also, I want to get a Mario Paci sharkskin strap. I think that would look sweet. Sorry for the lousy pics. That's the next skill I have to pick up. If there's some little (which is to say, major) thing that I'm missing please let me know. I can't get the angle right to show the reflection of the numbers in the rehaut, but it's there. Dust on the crystal. Definitely no AR, haha.

The Domino's Rolex is a corporate award that was given to successful franchise managers. There are a few other similar pieces from different companies. Nearly always Air-Kings, since they cost the least.

I'm of the same mind. It looks like a great rep and I sure the people who get it will be pleased, but for me, this is a positive sign that JLC is getting some attention from the factories and maybe a super Reverso is on the horizon. ...perhaps even the Tribute 1931 version.

I'm sure for every member here who says, "I buy from X and have always been satisfied" you'll find two members who'll swear up and down "X is a rip-off artist, I'll only buy from Y." So much depends on so many factors. In general, though, any of the TDs will treat you well. They know the value of TD status and work to maintain it. FWIW, I've found Davidsen, Angus, and Andrew to be honorable businessmen who will do what they have to to make sure I'm a happy customer.

Watching the rain, wearing my newly completed Franken-Hublot.

Thanks. It's really made me re-appreciate quartz. The slim profile, the accuracy, the never needing to be re-wound and re-set. I can only imagine what a piece like the Hublot would have been like in 1980. I can only imagine it would have been like the Offshore or something. "A luxury piece? On a rubber strap?!" I need to wear it more and get used to the blue. Never had a blue-dialled watch before. Feels weird.

Hi fellows, I've completed what I think has to be a pretty unique project: a Frankenstein'ed MDM-era Hublot. (Please pardon the worst pictures in existence. I just don't know how to take good pictures.) I've been obsessed with these pieces for some time, since I have an irrational love for all things 80's. (If it weren't an 80's watch, I'd never wear two-tone...or quartz.) I found a case, crown and a dial on the Bay. I popped a basic ETA quartz movement into it and used some generic gold hands. This is an example of a case from the 80's, since the bezel screws are raised above the level of the bezel. Sometime in the 90's, they resigned the bezel and the screws so they were flush like modern Hublots. I got an NOS pair of strap pieces and sourced an old two-tone clasp. The strap is the biggest pain because it's completely 'tailored'. No other strap will fit the case or clasp and you need to find pieces that fit your own wrist because there is ZERO adjustability. The whole thing went together pretty easily and quartz is actually pretty convenient. None of it was particularly expensive, either, less than three hundred dollars all told. The strap was the most expensive thing. While the blue sunburst is very impressive-looking, I think I still prefer the traditional matte-black dial, so I'm rooting around for one of those now. The piece wears a little bigger than 36mm because the odd lug design makes the watch a lot longer, similarly to how a 36mm Datejust wears considerably bigger than a 34mm Air King. It's astoundingly light. What do you guys think?

JBetts, it's really not as hard as it looks. It does take a while, though. I only used a Dremel for the lug holes, holding the case in a vise and using the existing holes as a guide for the bit. For the reshape, I used a metal file, some 200, 400 and 1500 grit sandpaper, and then polishing compound. I popped the bezel off with a plastic knife. For the rehaut, I only used the sandpaper in a swirling motion to get rid of the brushing, then the polishing compound. Test fit a spare dial to check for the mirror reflection. For the case edges, I filed off some metal, checked the shape, filed some more, checked some more, etc, etc, etc. The file takes off so little metal at a time it's not as big of a risk as it sounds. Sure, if you're taking metal off with a Dremel you can foul a case up quickly, but I worked by hand. Reshaping the case corners and lugs to flow into one another took a little longer, since there was more metal to remove. I'd say it was fun, but it totally wasn't: it was boring and took a long while. The end result was pretty good, though, for a first-timer.

Sorry. I should have taken some before pics. It was just a bog-standard 111 rep case. Everyone's seen one of those, I guess.

Sloppy edge coating at the lug ends as well. That's a dead giveaway too. All the gen OEM straps I've ever bought has been perfectly coated.

Oooohhhh. I gotcha... Dammit...OK, where to get a replacement crystal? Ofrei?

The crystal is not supposed to have the laser etched coronet? The gen F series 114270 Explorer has them. (per the anal retentive fellows at the Rolex forum) The previous 14270 did not. Is it just that the rep's etching is poor?

Hi All, My main project, a Panerai 5218-201/A continues...I have re-shaped the case and drilled out the lugs. (I apologize in advance for the pictures, I didn't realize how much filth would show up under the camera lens.) The shoulders were sanded down and polished and the edges of the case were also rounded-off and polished. On the non-crown side in particular, one can draw a continuous arc up the lugs and along the upper edge of the case. The rehaut is also mirror polished, but doesn't appear to show up very well in the pictures. The crown guard was heavily worked-over as well. The pin was worked over to look slightly countersunk, the lever was a mess when I got it, and the crown guard body was cleaned-up as well along its edges and to meet the case better. I apologize for the placeholder dial and hands. All the work was done manually. The case is an old PAM111 rep case from years ago, the crystal, crown guard and crown are DSN newborn. The movement is a Swiss Unitas low-beat as per gen. Now all's I need is a blasted FGD dial and hands set, which I can't seem to find to save my life! Other than that, please let me know what you guys think is good, and what needs improvement. Thanks!

Hi All, I'm working on my first Rolex project. I don't know why it took me so long to come around to the Coronet, but I'm here now. I've started with my favorite Rolex: the last of the 36mm Explorers, the ref.114270. It's the Cartel version (I believe) with a non-Swiss 2824 in it. I've got the bracelet pretty well sorted, cleaned and de-burred so it feels gen now. The flip-lock opens and closes with the correct snap. I've gone through the case and cleaned up all of the too-sharp edges as well. The SELs don't really bother me, because most of the gens I've seen have SELs that look ever-so-slightly off anyway. The dial looks OK, but the 3, 6, and 9 aren't exactly quite right and, of course, the lume bites. I think I can live with that until I find a gen dial. (I don't know if a gen dial fits, though.) I don't think the crown is right and that's the part that bugs me the most. It doesn't thread on smoothly. It feels a little 'grinding' and I think it's thicker than gen. Would I have to replace the crown or both the crown and tube if I were to go with a gen crown? To that end, what size is it supposed to be anyway? Is there anything glaring that I'm missing? Any help from the masters is much appreciated.

The Chrono SMP is pretty darned accurate, more so than any three-hand SMP ever was. The A7750 and Swiss 7750 are almost direct swaps; there's a minor difference in hand size in some cases. However, a simple dial/hands swap (both are readily available and inexpensive) and a crown will make it effectively a perfect rep...a franken at that point. The problem like Chou said, with SMP 300's is that the gens can be for really cheap on the second-hand market. In addition to being discontinued models, this is a factor in why the rep factories stopped making them. Consider for the price of two or three APROO or Hublot reps, you've got a gen SMP.

Panerai service centers, though I can't imagine they'd be too keen to sell one to just anyone. But seriously folks...by virtue of Panerai's much lower production rate and relative youth compared to a Rolex or Omega, gen Panerai parts are significantly harder to come by than Rolex parts. Fortunately, the simplicity of Panerai parts means they are also generally very well replicated. For which model are you looking for a crown guard?

I will put in another vote for the 29M. It's nearly perfect down to the AR color and will readily accept a gen movement swap. (Closed caseback too.) The 390 has too many problems. Wait until Noob makes it.

I don't begrudge the O.P. for feeling that a rep that costs 5% of the gen isn't nearly as good. It shouldn't be. I've owned both rep and gen PAMs and, while I get enjoyment from wearing both, they are for different reasons. The rep is usually something that I've modded personally, so I get a feeling of wearing the fruit of my own labors and it's typically a neat piece that I'd never be able to afford anyway (if it's even available anymore, unlike vintage or pre-V stuff.) The gens are almost made more important by their price. They require saving and patience to purchase (unless you're rich or something) and so they represent something special when you finally get it, and it's often for a special occasion too. Reps are disposable fun and can't have the same importance. Just because base PAMs are very simple pieces (that come with enormous price tags) doesn't mean that the factories can produce perfect replicas because the gens are (usually) perfectly finished. The difference between a gen and a rep is that extra week of finishing work that each gen receives; and that the rep will only get if the owner is willing to start filing and polishing and replacing parts. Wear it well, service it when it needs it, sell it when you're no longer enjoying it. Simple.

That's a pretty cool combo. (Of course, knowing Panerai, they'll probably release it as a model at some point. This is a combination they probably haven't done yet. ) I'd have the dial re-lumed with the faux patina lume color. That would make it look very unique and still plausibly factory.

There is no super-rep of the Tank Francaise that is currently made. The currently available rep isn't bad at all, but isn't perfect. (It's weird, I know. The Tank is such a popular, classic watch and the case is such a simple one, a super rep would be a piece of cake.) If you're looking for a Cartier for women, I would suggest the mid-sized Santos. It's 33mm square, so it's a nice ladies' size, and it's a very, good rep. If that's too big for her or she'd prefer quartz, then the ladies size Ballon Bleu is also very accurate.

Kevin, ETA-made Unitas movements can be purchased via any number of sources. eBay is riddled with them (though some of them are Chinese clones sold as Swiss-made versions. It's eBay, caveat emptor.) Places like Ofrei will sell them, or your friendly local watchmaker can get you one, usually for pretty cheap. That's where I get my out of the box movements: my local guy will order them for me. Swapping out the movement is also quite easy. It's where I got started modding my reps. I swapped out a bad Chinese movement for a Swiss Unitas in a 232 Radiomir rep. You'll want a few tiny screwdrivers, tweezers and a hand-puller. (A hand puller can be had for about ten bucks on the 'Bay.) That's really all you need. It takes about two hours the first time you do it, and about ten minutes the second time. It's actually a lot of fun...well, I think it is. A lot of other folks here do as well. (It also sort of softens the 'rep' blow, y'know? "I built it" has a lot more cool-factor than "it's just a rep". My wife would never wear a 'fake', but watching me put together a Big Bang rep for her makes it a special piece.)