SportsterRider

Thanks Deltahoe! I'm finding it difficult to balance my collection between getting every thing I like (which seems to be everything I lay eye's on!), and keeping my collection at a size that allows me to actually wear what I have. Right now it's at a good level in that I can rotate throughout the week and wear most of what I have. As far as the box shot, it's been somewhat interesting learning how to take these kinds of photo's. Until recently, I've never taken shots of such small items at such a close distance. It's nothing at all like taking 'normal' pictures! But, I'm getting better.. Thanks again! SR

Been trying to get better with the camera shots, so I figured I'd take some shots of my collection. After seeing some of the pictures of members collections here, mine doesn't hold a candle to most here. But seeing new shots of others prized pieces is one of the cool things about this site and I figured it was time to contribute. So without further ado.. This is a shot of most of my collection. From left to right, top to bottom - Bulova Millenia, PAM 909, Vostok Mriya, Seiko Chrono, Genuine 2254.50, So-Called Perfect Sub from Paul, VIPMariner, Tu-Tone Datejust. This is a shot of my first 'good' replica. I bought this in the summer of 2000 and paid a good penny for it. Back then, I had never heard of a replica this nice. The first replica's I owned were bought back in the 1983-1985 timeframe. None off them had mechanical movements - all were quartz. They were also all plastic crystals, base metal cases and bearing only a passing resemblance to their genuine counterpart. So when I 'found' a site selling this piece, I was blown away at it's accuracy. It's got an ETA 2836 movement, I replaced the replica band with a nice Italian piece. But other than that, it's unmodified. I wore this watch almost exclusively for 6 years. Looks as good as the day I bought it. This is the second and last replica I bought from the same place I bought the DJ. It's a Yachtmaster that hasn't held up very well. It's got a nice case and a 2836 movement, but the dial has faded badly and some of the lume on some of the markers has changed color from the others. This is my So-Called Perfect LV from Paul at Wo-Mart. I had this apart recently (I picked up a VIPMariner from RWI and was going to use the movement/dial from the Paul sub in this case) and was VERY impressed with how this watch is constructed. This has to be one of the highest quality reps I've seen in a while. The dial and the case are EXACTLY matched to each other in that the dial fits into the case perfectly in such a way as there is no movement once installed. The metal movement ring is also perfectly machined to the case and movement. It's got a very thick caseback and a solid feel to the case as though it was forged versus cast. It's gotta be one of the best deals going. This is my PAM 090 (that is for sale). I got this to see if I would catch the Panny bug. So far, I don't think I have, but I DO have an increased interest in them that I didn't think I would. So for me the jury is still out on whether or not I'll become hooked on these. I've got a 111h coming that is more in line with what I think of when I think of Panerai. We'll see how that one works for me! This is a Vostok Miyra my dad gave me a couple months ago. It's a sharp looking watch that keeps good time and has a very nice finish. This now splits duty with my tu-tone DJ for dress duty. This is my newest addition and a piece I had been wanting for a LONG time. It's the ever popular 2254.50 SMP. I haven't worn anything else since I picked this up about a month ago. Anyway, there are others (as you can see in the first pics at the top) in my collection, but this is taking longer than I wanted it to. Hopefully you guys enjoyed looking at my small collection! SR

Not only is this a replica, but the warranty/pictogram/chrono cards show an incorrect reference number. Some poor sap is going to end up with a very expensive replica unless this gets pulled. http://tinyurl.com/2wrm5c SR

Well said, Bill! Funny thing is, I was getting a similar feeling while trolling through that thread yesterday. I agree with the spirit of that 25 page thread, but the execution had me thinking that maybe I need to step away from this for a while. It's supposed to be a hobby, a pastime, a diversion, whatever you want to call it. When it gets to where folks start slinging profanities at each other over a replica watch hobby, I believe it's time to step back for a bit. Good post, Bill... SR

Good info! Does anyone have any information about the DG8413M? Is it a good movement? (I've had mixed luck with the DG2813, but overall I think they're an 'okay' movement) Also the 'copy' 2824 that I've seen is actually a Selita SW200, which IS a Swiss movement (or at the very least a Swiss company), it's just not an ETA movement. Legit brands, like Invicta, are starting to use these in place of the 2824. So far, the majority of them seem to perform pretty well.

Correct.

Probably not much help, but here is the 'whois' info on that IP: inetnum: 91.104.0.0 - 91.104.63.255 netname: OUK-LLU1-18 descr: Range2 Acton /18 country: GB admin-c: KK2085-RIPE tech-c: KK2085-RIPE status: Assigned PA mnt-by: Wanadoo-UK-MNT changed: khalid.kamran@uk.wanadoo.com 20061018 source: RIPE person: Khalid Kamran address: Network Architect address: Orange Home UK Plc address: Verulam Point, Station way address: St Albans AL1 5HE phone: +44-172-720-7388 e-mail: khalid.kamran@uk.wanadoo.com nic-hdl: KK2085-RIPE notify: khalid.kamran@uk.wanadoo.com abuse-mailbox: abuse@orange.co.uk changed: khalid.kamran@uk.wanadoo.com 20061025 source: RIPE % Information related to '91.104.0.0/13AS35736' route: 91.104.0.0/13 descr: Range2 LLU Subs origin: AS35736 mnt-by: Wanadoo-UK-MNT changed: khalid.kamran@uk.wanadoo.com 20061018 source: RIPE

Depends on what you mean by 'loose'. Have you checked the CG screws to be sure they're tight? I recently purchased a Panerai rep that had, what I felt, was a 'loose' lever. I checked the two screws that hold the CG to the case and found the upper one to be loose. Once I tightened that screw, the lever got tight as it should be. SR

I can't speak for others here, but I've never gone to an AD with the sole intention of 'showing off' my rep. I'm a watch nut. Whether I have a gen on, or a rep on, if I'm out and spot a good watch shop, I stop in. In those instances, I'm not going to hurry up and take my rep off before going in. As far as looking to fool someone who feeds their kids selling gens, that's a specious argument. Sure, I've talked with some VERY knowledgeable AD sales folks. But they are the exception (at least, around here it's the exception). In general, most of them are NOT watch nuts and while they know the model names, prices and whatnot, they are certainly not sharp enough to spot a 'good' rep unprompted. Now, if you have a NY back alley $20.00 special on, that's a different story! SR

No they can't. They're not a law enforcement agency, and they're not Omega. They are nothing more than a dealer and they would have no rights whatsoever to "seize" anything.

I had both for a short time. To me, the Chrono was a MUCH better looking rep. The dial was way better, and the case is much closer to gen than the regular SMP rep. Overall, it's just a much better looking watch. I ended up giving the SMP to my brother and the Chrono to my dad as I bought a gen 2250.50. All that said, you can't really go wrong with either model. SR

Looks great, Joe!

That's not an asian 'copy' of a 2824. Actually, it's a SW200 Selitta. This is a swiss movement that a lot of company's are starting to use instead of the 2824 ETA's. It's supposed to be a pretty good movement. If you do a google search, you can find out a good bit about this movement. SR

My SCPS from Paul is an excellent watch and is most definitely able to handle normal swimming duties (normal, as in 10 feet or less like you find in a run-of-the-mill swimming pool). BUT, on mine the caseback was not screwed down very tightly. I have a Rolex caseback tool and was able to get a full 90 degrees turn before it was 'tight'. I'd check that first before getting it wet. SR

Couldn't you just remove the movment? Then all you would have to do is glue the hands to the dial (remember to do this first!), then glue the dial to the inside of the case, and then glue the datewheel to the backside of the dial. Just be sure to pick a time and date that you're most likely to wear the watch. If you tend to wear it most often at, say, 3:10 PM on the 25th, but you accidentally glue the hands to 3:30 on the 12th, boy you'd have pie on your face then! Hmm, now that I think of it, that might limit when you can wear the watch. Maybe just glue the rotor so it can't spin? SR

The other things that looks "off" are the end links. The edges of the polished centers look too rounded to me. That is one thing that always gives away a rep to me. Genuine Rolex SEL's have very defined center sections. This one looks rounded. It would help to have a better pic, but based on this one rep is my call... SR

My old version is for sale! SR

Well, in topics that have some roots in opinion, there are bound to be differences which will spark disagreement. But this is also a contribution, whether it's pleasant all the time or not. That, along with what you post, would be a GREAT addition to this board IMNSHO. I can't be the only one who would appreciate your efforts here. If you're looking to contribute to the board, this would be a fantastic way to do it! SR

I would be curious to know what you are basing your opinions on? Is there an online reference to any of this? Also, if your willing, could you post your thoughts in a guide form? For instance: 1) For formal gatherings relating to work, the following is considered appropriate * Casual dress - steel watch * Formal dress - gold or steel watch on a strap It's interesting reading that reminds me of watching old movies. Overcoats and top hats were once very essential parts of fashion. I had no idea there were/are dress codes out there relating to what watch to wear. SR

I did the same thing and saw the same things. For men, a watch isn't solely about keeping time. It's jewelry. Matter of fact, I'd day that today, with cell phones, Blackberry's, etc, that a watch is MORE jewelry and LESS a timekeeping device than it ever was in the past. But to each their own. I sincerely doubt that too many people are going to be offended by wearing a watch to a dinner party, but if they are I'll keep my sleeve over my watch! SR

Wouldn't this make the hand posts too shallow relative to the dial face, causing the hands to be too close (perhaps even touching) to the dial? Or is there enough 'wiggle room' to allow for this? SR

I agree that the CG's are pretty obvious, along with the pearl. But the HE valve (IMO) isn't. Actually, I think the date window is a much easier 'flaw' to spot than the HE valve. I've been thinking of doing this very same mod to my SMP. It's going to depend on the size of my bonus this spring. If there's anything left over after paying for my wedding, I'm going to be buying a Gen anyhow (and the fiance' has expressed an interest in helping as a kind of wedding gift!). But if not, I'll likely do the dial/hands on my rep and maybe attempt to mod the CG's to look more like the gen. Either way the watch looks great, Scoobs! SR

Nice collection! The end links on that Explorer look great; much better than some I've seen on the countless Subs out there. SR

I recently picked up a Bond SMP (thanks Neb!) from a fellow board member and have a question. This is an older version with pins in the band. It's around one year old and was originally purchased from Angus. My question relates to the movement; it is my understanding that most of these came with the 2824-2 ETA, but I've noticed something with this watch that makes me think it's either a 2892 or a Seagull movement. A few years ago I owned a gen SMP. Unlike the 28xx movements, the date change on my gen SMP wasn't exactly immediate. At about 11:45, the date would move about 1/4 of the way to the next date and stay there until it 'snapped' to the next day at roughly midnight. The 2892 is the only movement I've seen that operates like that. I was up late a couple nights ago and noticed that my new-to-me rep SMP does the exact same thing. Instead of just snapping to the next date, it starts to move a bit ~15 minutes before midnight, stops, and then snaps to the next date at roughly midnight. How common was it to have a Seagull or gen 2892 in a SMP rep 1-1.5 years ago? If this were any other watch, I'd just pop the caseback and look for myself, but I don't have an Omega caseback remover and I don't want to scratch the caseback using a standard tool (and it's on too tight for the duct tape method). Also, has anyone ever modified the crown guard to look more like the gen? It looks to me like the biggest difference is the center/top of the CG where it meets the bezel. The gen has a deeper 'cut' that exposes most/all of the crown. It looks like it'd be fairly 'simple' to remove some material on this rep to make it look exactly like a gen. I've never done this type of modification, so I was wondering if anyone else had done it and what they used (I have read a bit about the Sub CG mods). TIA! SR

Awesome news!! SR